09-09-2016, 10:22 AM | #21 |
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Re: Cracked block
I have a device that will allow you to pressure test the system while the engine is in the car (with the heads on). PM me if you-re interested.
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09-09-2016, 10:55 AM | #22 | |
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Re: Cracked block
Quote:
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09-09-2016, 11:22 AM | #23 |
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Re: Cracked block
AS they say, that crack has a part number, I never bother to doanything to fix it. I do however use a steam pipe compound on the threads. You can get a tube of it at a plumbing supply house. Next I only torque to #50 ft/lbs and do this for 3 heat cycles. I've been doing this for the past 30 or 40 years, so it works. Now there maybe a better way, but I don't know it.
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09-09-2016, 11:33 AM | #24 | |
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Re: Cracked block
Quote:
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09-09-2016, 11:44 AM | #25 |
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Re: Cracked block
Thank yall for the help! The only thing that is bothering me is the fact that i dont really see where the head gasket blew. Ill let yall know how everything goes.
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09-09-2016, 03:27 PM | #26 |
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Re: Cracked block
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09-09-2016, 03:51 PM | #27 |
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Re: Cracked block
Hi Everyone, 1941f1, I have a car that had REALLY OLD radiator hoses on it. They started to break-down from the inside and shed all this black crap into the system.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198594
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09-09-2016, 03:54 PM | #28 |
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Re: Cracked block
Maybe someone here lives near you and has the simple Speedway pressure test...no real teardown needed beyond taking off the head and then the pump on that side. Bolt on the 2 plates covering head and pump surface, add air, see if it holds. If so, thoroughly check out head and go get a gasket.
The problem/need for pressure is that the complex porting design can allow a crack deep within, like an exhaust passage, where it is totally beyond vision. I agree that this is likely gasket problem, but a pressure test on the affected side would be nice. |
09-09-2016, 04:06 PM | #29 |
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Location: Winona, Mississippi
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Re: Cracked block
I've replaced the hoses. But could be from sometime before me. The dern gaskets won't be in till Tuesday.
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09-09-2016, 04:19 PM | #30 |
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Re: Cracked block
Keep in mind that crack may have been there even before you overheated. Pay it know mind and proceed with the new head gasket and oil change.
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09-09-2016, 05:02 PM | #31 |
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Re: Cracked block
I'm about to do a reverse pressure test. I thought of, I'm going to pressurize the radiator with a new head on and reuse the old gasket.
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09-09-2016, 05:41 PM | #32 |
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Re: Cracked block
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09-10-2016, 07:22 AM | #33 |
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Re: Cracked block
Wait on the new gasket. Patience is something you will learn along the way. A lot of us have 40+ years playing with these oldies and are still learning the lesson of patience. It's easier to do it right than do it wrong twice..
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09-10-2016, 07:30 AM | #34 |
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Re: Cracked block
The cracks between cylinders are not uncommon. The siamese exhaust ports run under those so a lot of heat can build up in those areas. As long as the cracks don't extend down through and into the exhaust ports, they won't be a problem. The only way to find out is to pressure test the block. Heads can crack or develop pin holes where the core wire goes through them in certain places. The heads can also be pressure tested. If a person has access to a surface plate or a well made level straight edge, the heads can be checked for warpage easily. Blown or leaky head gaskets are also not uncommon but are not easy to diagnose. On a flathead, it's easier to replace them as a diagnosis test. If it still overheats, then a person has to go through all the tests to find out where the problem is.
The OEM coolant temperature indicating system has two senders but only one actually registers the gauge indication (on the passenger side). The driver side sender is just a temperature sensitive switch that makes the indicator go full swing to "H" when it gets to the set temperature of the bi-metalic switch. This isn't the worlds best system but it seemed to be working OK in this case. |
09-10-2016, 12:07 PM | #35 |
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Re: Cracked block
Check to be certain nothing is impeding the flow of water on that bank of cylinders. Also be sure the water pump has not lost the impellor. Remove the thermostat for a maximum water flow experiment.
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09-10-2016, 10:38 PM | #36 |
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Re: Cracked block
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09-12-2016, 09:13 AM | #37 | |
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Re: Cracked block
Quote:
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09-12-2016, 09:35 AM | #38 |
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Re: Cracked block
My leaks started after a short run and the rad solution was foamy and I went through lot of water. My Mechanic, suggested that before I remove the heads, I try a bottle of "IronTite". Well it seems to have worked, as I made a 100 mile trip on Sunday, with no over heating and the fluid level is still an inch above the core. Twenty Dollars well spent, even if it is a temporary fix. Byron.
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09-27-2016, 10:16 PM | #39 |
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Re: Cracked block
So just wanted to give y'all an update. Put the head on, and drove the car home. In the 10 miles I drove it the heat gauge started going over 3 quarters. Of course I stopped and let it cool off. I'm planning on pulling the motor and tranny out. I'm putting new gaskets in the motor and repainting everything. How complicated is it to pull them both together?
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