Distributor Analysis

[mrraford]

Ok, I should know this but I think old man Zymer is visiting right now.

A friend has an A with issues in the distributor department. First he has converted the beast to 12 volts. Will that affect the distributor performance? and how should that be addressed? He won't consider returning to a 6 volt system.

Second, his adjustment lever on the column has no effect on engine performance. Timing issue? slop in bushings? other causes?
This engine has a tendency to overheat so my first guess has been timing but he swears that he has timed it with a light and it is "dead on". He focuses more on point gap than anything.
For his 80th birthday, I rebuilt a distributor complete with new bushings, shaft, restored plates and condenser just to prove the point.
Before we install this new distributor, what says the group about other issues to address?

[100IH]

A coil intended for 12v most often has a resistor inside. That's because "all" coils run on 6V. Without a resistor inside, it will need one outside if the system is 12v. For the timing, with the lever full up, it should tic over very slowly with no real power. 2-3 notches down should result in a even idle with pull-away power, 1/2 way down 30 MPH and above w/o overheat. Timing is not the only factor causing overheating.

[Marshall57]

I think there is an advance problem. You didn't say what year it is, so if it is a 28/29 watch the length of the advance rod, make sure it is moving the distributor timing correctly. if it is a 30/31 you will have to also watch it for proper movement but you can loosen the bracket and turn the steering column to get the proper movement and stopping points.

[mrraford]

That is good information. We are working on a RHD 1930 model. When it quits raining we will examine the advance mechanism.

thanks

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by mrraford

That is good information. We are working on a RHD 1930 model. When it quits raining we will examine the advance mechanism.

thanks

If you're having those problems and it is a RHD car, make sure the rods from steering column to the bell crank and from bell crank to distributor are connected the right way around. I bet that is the problem.

[Benson]

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PO says:

"Second, his adjustment lever on the column has no effect on engine performance."

THIS info assumes that when spark lever is retarded (UP) that lever on distributor moves to passenger side (sorry this is RHD so moves to drivers side) and is stopped by the notch in dist body.

As you know if timing is correct when you retard spark lever all the way the engine should make the famous "Puckety puckety sound and run nice and slow at 250 to 350 RPM and when advanced to 50% as mentioned above will smooth out to 450 or so.

If there is little change when retarding my experience tells me that there might be too much advance. So if you know timing is setup correctly then most likely you have a Model B Front timing cover installed which advances timing by 19 degrees.

On the front timing cover there are 7 bolts (one hidden under a recess in cover near generator mount).

Anyway look at the two bolts at the 9 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions (standing in front of car and looking at engine). The timing pin is located between these two bolts. If timing pin is closer to ten o'clock then you have a Model B cover and it should be changed to a model A cover so that the timing can be setup correctly. If close to 9 o'clock then it is a Model A cover And timing pin is at the zero degrees point in setup.

See Vince Falter's webpage here for everything you ever wanted to know about timing covers.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

As seen in webpage there are several different covers ... to get right one Call Berts

www.modelastore.com

They know the correct cover that you need.

[mrraford]

also thought provoking information.
Thanks had not thought about that possibility