axle tube seals

[Beater]

can you replace the seals from the outside with the drum and hub off or do we have to pull the axle apart to replace the seals?

[J Franklin]

They are placed from the inside, you should do this when the housings are apart.

[Beater]

that's what I thought I was hopeing not to have to take it apart

[J Franklin]

Maybe just keep the level low until you are ready. You may also need to repair the surface on the axle where it runs in the seal.

[Jacksonlll]

The seals keep the axel grease from going inboard toward the diff. Since it can't go there, it is forced toward the bearing. No need to replace the seals if you pack the bearing like you do the front. Don't worry about the lube in the diff.

[Bob C]

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If you read page 361 of the Service Bulletins it says the axle shaft seals keep the lube
in the rear axle. They also show pictures of how the seals go.

Bob

[daveymc29]

On todays roads we are better able to keep our vehicles close to level than on the old dirt paths and wagon track that some Model A's had to follow back in the day. Then, with the car tipping so much on hillsides and such, the seals were very important to keep differential lube from getting out to the downhill end and destroying the brake linings. These days I change the seals only when I have to have the differential out of the car. Then it is easily done with a little tool the venders sell plus a three foot piece of pipe from your local hardware. (Always use a good spring spreader.)

[john charlton]

I know my rear axle seals are shot ,with the hub off I can wiggle the axle up and down with no resistance . I never ever park on a lateral slope and up to now now no rear end lube has migrated onto my brake shoes past the hub seal . I would guess some rear wheel bearing grease has gone into the rear end but that is not a worry ,only a couple of shots a year anyway and most will be in the housing .

John in Spring weather at last Suffolk County England .

[Jim Brierley]

Listen to jacksonIII and john charlton.

[Jacksonlll]

Here is a video on the subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuDG..._fFQcz4R0&t=0s

[Bob C]

Well according to Henry the drawing of the axle seal in the video is backwards.
From the Service Bulletins "The rear axle shaft grease retainer must be installed
with the sharp edge of the leather section of the retainer pointing toward the differential."

Bob

[J Franklin]

I agree they are backwards, but what the heck if your linings get oily you can do the job again. I guess you could put 2 in each side back to back and never have to worry.

[Beater]

well mine is getting oil past into the brakes. I will see whats going on as soon as I can get it in the shop I guess. ive read that it was reallyto retain the grease not the oil ive never had a hub off or axle apart before and I'm wondering if there is room for a modern seal outboard on the end of the axle . going to find out anyways I guess. thanks for the help gents

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by john charlton

I know my rear axle seals are shot ,with the hub off I can wiggle the axle up and down with no resistance . I never ever park on a lateral slope and up to now now no rear end lube has migrated onto my brake shoes past the hub seal . I would guess some rear wheel bearing grease has gone into the rear end but that is not a worry ,only a couple of shots a year anyway and most will be in the housing .

John in Spring weather at last Suffolk County England .

Not only your seals are shot, more likely your rear wheel bearings are shot too!

Actually, the wear may not be the bearing but rather the "race" (part of the trumpet housing which the rollers roll on) which has a habit after 80 years of wearing "egg-shaped" with the flat part on the bottom. Thus the bearing may "bear" adequately the weight of the car - but you have the possibility of vertical displacement.

Which can cause an adequate rear hub seal to leak - as well as the axle seal.

Solution on most Model As is to remove the trumpet. Mount it in a lathe and turn off the outer diameter of the bearing race with a carbide tool. Then press on the aftermarket hardened sleeve. Assemble normally.

Another solution is to retrofit the rear hubs with the later Ford V8 wheel bearings. Sleeve is provided for these to press into the hub - the axle housing is simply turned down to a smaller diameter and used without sleeve.

Joe K

[Al 29Tudor]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

Here is a video on the subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuDG..._fFQcz4R0&t=0s

The video is "bas-akwards"
The Service Manual shows the grease seal lip for the pre-packed wheel Bearing faces the bearing to keep the grease in the bearing.
Then it shows the axle seal lip facing the differential to keep the lube in the differential.
Very straightforward.
Al Leach

[updraught]

A grease seal is easily confused. Don't tell it to do one thing and not the other.

[Beater]

Another solution is to retrofit the rear hubs with the later Ford V8 wheel bearings. Sleeve is provided for these to press into the hub - the axle housing is simply turned down to a smaller diameter and used without sleeve.

Joe K




this. this os what I want to know about. this is what I was thinking figured id find something more modern for the hub side. any more info or articles would be great

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Beater

Another solution is to retrofit the rear hubs with the later Ford V8 wheel bearings. Sleeve is provided for these to press into the hub - the axle housing is simply turned down to a smaller diameter and used without sleeve.

Joe K




this. this os what I want to know about. this is what I was thinking figured id find something more modern for the hub side. any more info or articles would be great

How can this work when the V8 bearing 68-1225 is the same ID as the
model A bearing. The ID on both are 2.0625.

Bob

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Bob C

How can this work when the V8 bearing 68-1225 is the same ID as the
model A bearing. The ID on both are 2.0625.

Bob

Thank you for the query - this the solution option for a damaged hub (which can have similar symptoms) where the internal sleeve "makes up for" (and covers) a damaged hub race.

I had to go back afterwards and check this thought - but didn't transfer it to my entry.

I thought it interesting that for a while, (many moons ago) the larger Model A bearing was not available and even dealers were "retrofitting" the later hubs or hubs with sleeves and thus borrowing from available V-8 parts for service to Model A. I think it was Rick Freeman (showing my age here) who mentions this option in his 1970 era Blue Model A Restoration Manual.

Yunno, Dealer Service - as in the 1950s when Model As were still being regularly serviced by Ford Dealerships - a car then 25 plus years old.

Now get beyond the current "platform" and parts become only available "aftermarket."

Joe K

Edit: I'm not seeing ANY availability of hub sleeves online. Edit: see below.

Purdy Swoft of this forum remembers them and mentions them. The full thread (including my experience rebuilding trumpet housing races) at https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142284. Purdy's specific reply on hub sleeves (including Bratton part numbers) at https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...6&postcount=10

The hub sleeve exists at Brattons - he mentions only to be used if using the V8 smaller bearing. See Part 1820 at https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...IzhIbnkIbq8VCr

As to the smaller V8 bearing being somehow more "durable?" This is unlikely given the smaller roller diameter and smaller outer race. More likely the Ford transition to a more compact bearing was a cost cutting move, and despite a 3x increase in horsepower for the V8 (over the years to 1940 when the rear axle design was irrevocably changed) the earlier Model A bearing design remained "overdesigned" and never reverted to as a shortcoming remedy.

I would stick with the Model A bearing if that is what you have.

Joe K