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02-16-2020, 11:19 AM | #21 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
I think one of the only differences between a late 1930 and an early 1931
pickup would be the Ford emblem on the radiator shell. |
02-16-2020, 02:12 PM | #22 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
My older copy of the Judging Standards says "may be as long as three months after the engine was produced...". Depend on where the vehicle was assembled it could have been a couple of days.
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02-16-2020, 02:54 PM | #23 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
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02-16-2020, 04:47 PM | #24 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
Hmmm...not sure I'd want to attempt to take the body off, I mean I want to know but proabally not that badly and I'd be afraid of screwing it up but thanks for insight as to how it could be done, I appreciate that.
The Speedometer is oval and odometer hasn't worked in over 50 years so the title says N/A for mileage...LOL.
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02-16-2020, 07:19 PM | #25 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
The oval speedometer would mean it was built before June 1930.
Bob |
02-17-2020, 04:57 PM | #26 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
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02-17-2020, 08:57 PM | #27 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
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02-17-2020, 11:39 PM | #28 | |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
Quote:
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02-18-2020, 01:02 AM | #29 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
Henry Ford did not throw anything away! As I understand the assembly line, parts were not stored. His plant was frugal! He required that parts from suppliers be delivered on oak pallets, so body wood parts could be made from the oak wood. He did not have to buy the oak wood!
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02-18-2020, 01:51 PM | #30 |
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Re: So when would my car actually have been made?
The 1928 and 1929 cars have a different front cross member from the 1930/31 frames. The 1930/31 models have a lower mounting area for the radiator than the 28/29 due to the difference in height. The later frame radiator pads are slightly lower or depressed into the member where the 28/29 member is raised up a good bit.
This is a way you can check the frame for 28/29 characteristics that are more obvious. Now a cross member is replaceable but riveting them is complicated. Folks in the shade tree classification usually used bolts instead of rivets it they were replaced. If yours has 1930 or later characteristics then it will likely not match the engine number. Folks that restored or maintained these cars in earlier eras may not have has such complicated rules involved with titles and registration as we have in this day and age. |
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