No spark at points

[Jeff/Illinois]

Went out to start Roadster and she no go. Getting fuel won't pop off cranks likes there's no tomorrow SO

Checked the spark at the points and there is none. Point gap dead on .020" where I always run. Open and close properly points not closed up . Took my test light and started hunting. I have power across both terminal box connections (ammeter OK?) and both posts on the coil. Thought maybe condensor so I swapped that out and still nothing. Changed the ignition cable to the dissy w/ a new one, still no go. Checked the terminals at the ignition switch ( have one of the cheapo specials not a pop out) and my test light lites up when I flip the switch to 'on' from off, when I put the hot lead on the ignition terminal that feeds the cable to the dist. and then ground the other lead, so I think the switch is OK???

Got me kinda stumped and it's too hot and humid out, so I'm hiding in here drinking a Dr. Pepper will attack it again tonite.

Any hints would be appreciated I do have another ignition switch I could try but since I got the test light to lite up by turning the switch 'on' I can't see that that is what it is????

Oh yeah have a Buss fuze wired into the starting circuit at the starter switch, fuze is good tried another one still nothing------------

[Bobant]

Had the same issue- no spark at points. In my case I had the cable that screws into the distributor turned in to far and it was shorted out. Turned it out a few turns and fired right up. Sounds too easy here- took me forever to find that- that's to a lot of advise from the experts on Fordbarn.

[mshmodela]

Assuming you've got a +6V ground car you should measure 6V everywhere the red is below (with the key switch on naturally).

From http://modelabasics.com

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Bobant

Had the same issue- no spark at points. In my case I had the cable that screws into the distributor turned in to far and it was shorted out. Turned it out a few turns and fired right up. Sounds too easy here- took me forever to find that- that's to a lot of advise from the experts on Fordbarn.

I recall when you had that issue so I tried different numbers of turns into the Dist. body. Usually I stay at two full turns that always seemed to be enough w/o overkill Tried one full turn up to three and a half to four still no go. Maybe I got a bad cabled lead been running them for at least ten years (the same one anyway)

Forgot to mention and I just thought of this....... bought a rebuilt dissy from Bert's wanted to go back to the original set up. Nice unit. Maybe I need to scrape a little paint off of the bottom of the body OR the little boss that comes up from the head? Car ran when I put that on a week ago just now acting up. I also smeared a little Never-Sieze on the bottom of the dist. down where it goes into the head, to help in removal later on-------------

[Jeff/Illinois]

Thanks mshmodela yes forgot to mention car is completely stock 6V positive ground.

I loaned my Fluke Meter out to a buddy he still has it. Need to get it back and run the test as you have illustrated!

By the way, can you test condensors by using the Ohm Meter setting? Maybe I'll Ohm the Ignition Switch too.

I popped off the upper plate and looked at the wire lead in the distributor and the fiber washers are in place, like I said new rebuilt dist. Primary circuit seems to be OK with the light test thru the switch, I seem to be losing it after that.

[700rpm]

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I deleted my comment, as I wrote it at the same time you wrote that you checked your pigtail.

[noboD]

I just went through this with one of my cars. The points had corroded over winter enough they didn't make electrical contact even though they were touching mechanically.

[Mitch//pa]

Jeff this is easy
With the key on using your testlight you should have power at the moveable points arm and both sides of the coil, use a credit card between the contacts holding it open. With the points closed credit card removed key on you should lose power at the moveable arm and one side of the coil. ( the contacts closed makes a ground) if you don't lose power clean the points contacts so they make a ground.
If your not getting power to the moveable point arm but are as you say on the ignition switch then the problem lies between the switch and the points, via armored cable, dist pigtail, or other connections

Let us know how this works out

[Fred K-OR]

Jeff, if you move the spark adjust lever up/down, does that give you spark? If so it would seem like some problem in the distributor. You may be able to see if this is happening if the amp meter flickers.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Jeff this is easy
With the key on using your testlight you should have power at the moveable points arm and both sides of the coil, use a credit card between the contacts holding it open. With the points closed credit card removed key on you should lose power at the moveable arm and one side of the coil. ( the contacts closed makes a ground) if you don't lose power clean the points contacts so they make a ground.
If your not getting power to the moveable point arm but are as you say on the ignition switch then the problem lies between the switch and the points, via armored cable, dist pigtail, or other connections

Let us know how this works out

Hey Mitch just went out to the garage and did as you said. Still no power to the movable point arm. Took off the upper plate to double check the pigtail wire, fiber washers, etc. and all was fine.

On a hunch, I swapped out the ignition switch with a $9.95 cheapo from Bert's that I had in a box of spare parts, and that did the trick! Had power to the points again. Rechecked the timing, and drove about three miles around town ran fine. Fred, after I reset the timing I checked it with my trouble light, ignition on, light lit up when I pulled the spark lever down two clicks so I guess I'm good to go thanks much guys!

This one threw me I was sure the ignition switch was OK testing it with a test light but as I said, didn't get a chance to check continuity on the old switch. I will run it out to the telephone company in the morning and use their Fluke meter. Stopped at my friends that borrowed it and he wasn't home no big deal.

I will run the cheapo switch for the time being guess it's time to anty up 50 bucks and get one of the better pop out looking switches the vendors sell!! Will do this in the fall.

Thanks again for the help have one more dumb question will ask in a new thread!!!

[Mitch//pa]

Good deal
I use those fake pop out switches ,, they are good quality..
Nurex makes them and dists to the suppliers

[Jeff/Illinois]

Do you also run the bigger ignition switch cables instead of the skinny one, the one you can unscrew out of the distributor w/o taking the dist. out??

I did take the dist. out and lightly sand off some of the paint on the base before I switched out ignition switches still didn't work so that must not be too big of a deal.......

[Mitch//pa]

I run the fat cable with it in the head clamp
I like everything to look kosher

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

I run the fat cable with it in the head clamp
I like everything to look kosher

Mitch, I may be a chicken when it comes to using the head clamp. I had used it when I first put together the motor. But when I started having distributor problems, I had to take the nut off the head to unhook the cable. Shortly after taking off the nut, coolant started to come out around the head bolt. So put the nut back on quick and have not reinstalled the clamp. Also when starting the rig a few times after this event, I had black moisture come out of the tail pipe. Thus I hurried and also changed the oil to make sure there wasn't any coolant in the oil. But I am sure someone that knows more about how to do this sort of thing would not have the problem I had.

Guess the question is to ask of someone knowing more about this procedure is what should a person do when they have to pull the distributor and a clamp is installed? One thing I do know, is drain the coolant before starting this procedure but if your on the road-what then ?????? Is there a better way to do this procedure?

[Mitch//pa]

Fred
You gotta drain down the cooling system.... Another thing to carry under the seat... A 3 gal catch pan and funnel

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Hey Mitch just went out to the garage and did as you said. Still no power to the movable point arm. Took off the upper plate to double check the pigtail wire, fiber washers, etc. and all was fine.

On a hunch, I swapped out the ignition switch with a $9.95 cheapo from Bert's that I had in a box of spare parts, and that did the trick! Had power to the points again. Rechecked the timing, and drove about three miles around town ran fine. Fred, after I reset the timing I checked it with my trouble light, ignition on, light lit up when I pulled the spark lever down two clicks so I guess I'm good to go thanks much guys!

This one threw me I was sure the ignition switch was OK testing it with a test light but as I said, didn't get a chance to check continuity on the old switch. I will run it out to the telephone company in the morning and use their Fluke meter. Stopped at my friends that borrowed it and he wasn't home no big deal.

I will run the cheapo switch for the time being guess it's time to anty up 50 bucks and get one of the better pop out looking switches the vendors sell!! Will do this in the fall.

Thanks again for the help have one more dumb question will ask in a new thread!!!

Thanks for posting the solution!!

[Jeff/Illinois]

My pleasure Mike I also like it when folks come back and relate what they found, we all learn better that way. At least I do!

Fred, I was told by an older Model A owner years ago, that he got away from the head stud/ignition clamp dilemma by putting a longer stud in when he rebuilt his motor, and then bolting his clamp on top of the head nut thereby he didn't have to upset the original torque of that nut. He just took off the top nut, lifted the clamp and cable, and was off to the races.

I had the same thing you are describing, so I left the clamp off after that and didn't disturb the torque again-----------

[Mitch//pa]

Fred I have seen people double nut the clamp on

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I once screwed Minervas' cable in ALMOST too far, ran until it got warm & I guess stuff expanded & it DIED ! Turned it out 1 turn & it was going again.
Bill W.

[boatbob2]

When I was in Japan,someone stole the brass leads from the distributer to the plugs,I was about 40 miles from home,I cut a section out of a barb wire fence into 4 pieces,put them on,drove home...