1931 roadster

[Bobant]

Car starts and runs fine for 10 minutes. After it gets hot it's done. It's getting gas, no spark. Checked distributor and all looks good including all wires in the distributor. Could it be the coil? Seems to be fairly hot but not sure if that is normal.

[Patrick L.]

If your spark is disappearing as the engine warms, then its kind of a classic condenser or coil problem. That is as long as the wiring is fine and a primary lead isn't going open.
Are you using one of the newer 'burn-proof' condensers ? Is the coil correct, in that, not oil filled ? Or, if it is oil filled just tip it up so the secondary wire comes out at the top. Also just make sure the coil polarity is correct while you're checking everything.

[Tom Wesenberg]

When it dies, how long is it before it will start again?

Does it die all of a sudden, like turning the key off?

A coil shouldn't be very hot after only 10 minutes, but if the wire between the coil and points shorts to ground, that can overheat the coil also. Ceck the voltage on each of the 2 coil terminals with the points open and key on as soon as it dies.

[Fred K-OR]

Tom's comment about something shorting out and this causing the coil to heat could be your problem. I know a few years ago, Tom mentioned this to me when I had a problem like yours. My coil was warm and I found my ignition switch was shorting out.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yep, my repro ignition terminal was touching the gas tank one day and I just happened to touch the coil and feel it was getting warm, and that's why I mention this quite often with ignition problems. The fix for me was as easy as bending the terminal to the side.

[Bobant]

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Update to my story. It has been 24 hours now and car will not start. Pulled a plug and turned it over and no spark at all. I am weakest in the electrical area and I am assuming it is the coil. Waiting to get another coil and see if that fixes it. It ran perfect before this. I double checked the distributor and all wires in it and all looks real good. Wrapped the wire under the plate with tape just to be double sure. I don't know what else to check. Don't own any meters or how to use them so this is the worst that could happen to me.

[Patrick L.]

Before throwing parts at this lets just try and figure out what is wrong. Get a test light and use it to find out where you have or do not have power. A test light is very easy to use and they are cheap.
First things first. Check to see if there is power to the points when they are open and no power when closed. While there, then clean them and set to .020". If you happened to be getting power when closed see if the cleaning and re-setting corrected that.
Then let us know what you found and we'll go from there.

[Bobant]

Checked power to points. None.open or closed. Key off- power on black wire to coil. No power on red wire. Key on-same as above. If I stick tester up in coil no power. If I put tester on black to red at coil it lights if ignition switch is on,doesn't if ignition is off. What next.


By the way-----thanks for helping me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sounds like the ignition switch is shorted to ground. Pull the screws and pull the instrument panel back from the gas tank and do the coil checks again. Also check for power at each of the switch terminals with the points open and the key on and again with the key off.

After reading your checks again, it could also be the wire from the switch to the distributor, or the short wire between the distributor plates. The short wire is the most likely cause. Be sure it is properly installed and not touching ground.

Do you have a picture of the wire going to the distributor? Sometimes the cabe gets screwed too far into the distributor. It only needs 2 or 3 turns in to work.

[Bobant]

Pulled dash panel away from dash . Key off no power to points. Coil power to black and red. Stick tester up in coil power.
Key on. Only power to black wire on coil

[Bobant]

Btw. Main wire screwed into distributor hand tight but all the way.

[BlueSunoco]

Originally Posted by Bobant

Btw. Main wire screwed into distributor hand tight but all the way.

Like Tom stated, you only need to have that screwed in a couple of turns. (Dist. body turned onto the cable I mean actually)All the way tight is too much it will cause you grief.

[Tom Wesenberg]

What type cable do you have screwed in?
Is it the heavy original type, or the thin easy to work with type?
Either way start by unscrewing it a couple turns and then see if you can get power to the open points with the key on.

[Mike V. Florida]

Take out the tail light and solder two wires to it and use as a test light.

Oner the points place a piece of paper in between the points and see if it lights up when your touch the movable arm with one wire and the other is touching engine stud.

Is you have voltage I would "shotgun it" and replace the coil based on your previous statement that it was hot.

[Bobant]

The cable is the heavy type, hard to work with.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bobant

The cable is the heavy type, hard to work with.

That means you'll have to lift up the distributor to unscrew it a couple turns. If it's also clamped under a head nut then you'll need to drain the coolant and remove the head nut.

[Mitch//pa]

before he goes ripping out the dist did we ever confirm that he is not getting power to the points with key on?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Mitch is right, lets not jump the gun. With the key on and points open check for 6 volts on the movable contact. Do the same check again when the engine dies after 10 minutes of running.

There's no point in giving any more advice or doing any more work until these two checks are made.

[Bobant]

Already did that. No power to points when open. I can take distributor out - I am very comfortable with that- just a locking bolt on side.

[Mitch//pa]

key on also
and power tthru the switch

[Mitch//pa]

if so its most likely the wire between the plates or as mentioned the cable screwed in to far. it seems lately here we have been having a run on the pigtail wires in the dist

[Bobant]

Checked the wire coming out of the ignition switch going to the amp meter. Key off there is power. Key on no power. Everything here seems backwards to me but I'm learning.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you pull the distributor out then you could just unscrew the cable from it and check the brass spring loaded contact for 6 volts, both in the extended position, and when you push the contact in. Sometimes there is a frayed wire near the brass contact that can short to ground.

[Bobant]

In process of removing distributor and backing off on main wire It will only take me a few minutes.

[Mitch//pa]

if your cable has a clamp under a head nut drain down the cooling system first or u can end up with water in the oil

[larrys40]

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I think he has a short between upper and lower plate, popout cable, or potentally the lower plate to the dist casting. I would remove the cam screw, cam, upper plate, and look for problems there, using the volt/ohm meter to check for voltage and ohms scale for short to ground. Also.. if it's a genuine popout remember the switch when off not only breaks the contact of power to the dist it also grounds out the points. that's part of the theftproof feature.

A volt'/ohm meter is your best friend right now...
Larry Shepard

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Bobant

Checked the wire coming out of the ignition switch going to the amp meter. Key off there is power. Key on no power. Everything here seems backwards to me but I'm learning.

What type of ignition system do you have, if stock there
should not be a wire from the ammeter to the switch.

Bob

[Bobant]

I think we have lift off. I turned the ignition cable out a few turns and laid it back in the hole and I have power at the points now. Currently in the process of installing the distributor and will attempt to start. Will report in a few minutes.

[Mitch//pa]

easy to read wiring diagram

[Bobant]

Yahoo yahoo yahoo. It's running like a kitten. I can't thank everyone enough for all the help. I never would have gotten it without your suggestions. I'm overjoyed. Darn cable into the distributor . I never would have believed it . Another success for you guys. I can't thank you all enough. Thankyou all. Bob Anthony

[Mitch//pa]

yaaahoooo
good job

when u have time inspect that plate wire in the dist also....

[Bobant]

Already did that Mitch. Wire looked perfect but I wrapped it with electrical tape just to be sure. Thanks for all the help and everyone else who helped me. I can usually figure out mechanical stuff but when it's electrical I'm a duck out of water. If it wasn't raining I would go for a ride because prior to shutting down altogether it would let me get away from the house then shut down. I hope I'm not celebrating to soon.

[Mitch//pa]

also as tom mentioned if its an aftermarket type switch make sure it doesnt short against the gas tank... its a good idea to tape up the terminals / tweak and tape up the gast tank area

[larrys40]

Whenever I rebuild a distributor I use a piece of rubber shim stock and glue it between the casting and the dimple on the lower plate.. so that no matter how far someone screws the cable in it can't short on the casting. Also.. sometimes as ignition wires inside the popout cables get old the insulation gets brittle and they are also sources for issues, especially as the bend.

Glad you found it!
Larry