02-19-2019, 04:37 PM | #1 |
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Adjusting
Good evening!
How do you adjust the track rod / tie rod on the front axle on -1/16"? I tried this with two parallel wool threads running from behind along the rear and front wheels forward. Totally unusable! Then I made it with two parallel square bars with 60 inches length, which were fixed against the front tire flanks. If I roll the car 40 inches forward after setting it, I unfortunately get quite different values. Too imprecise. Laser Adjuster are based on the rim edges, which is too inaccurate with the old hunchbacked things. Who has successful tips?
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02-19-2019, 04:46 PM | #2 |
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Re: Adjusting
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02-19-2019, 04:56 PM | #3 |
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Re: Adjusting
Search here for toe in and you will see every method ever thought of.
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02-19-2019, 05:28 PM | #4 |
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Re: Adjusting
I jack up each front wheel and scribe a line on the tire, while spinning the wheel. This gives you a true center to measure from. Then just let the car down, with a piece of cardboard under each tire, and measure between the lines, front a back. The cardboard allows the tire to slip easier on the floor.
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02-19-2019, 06:45 PM | #5 |
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Re: Adjusting
Try a good alignment shop.
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02-19-2019, 07:03 PM | #6 |
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Re: Adjusting
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Quick to make and very accurate. A laser alignment machine showed my settings to be perfect, despite what some detractors may say. That is on several different cars. SAJ in NZ Last edited by SAJ; 02-19-2019 at 07:19 PM. |
02-20-2019, 01:09 PM | #7 |
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Re: Adjusting
I mostly agree with J Franklin in post number 5 . If you choose to do it yourself , loosen the bolts that clamp the tie rod ends to the tie rod . After the tie rod end clamp bolts are loosened , the tie rod can be adjusted with an adjustable pipe wrench . Being as it hasn't been mentioned , the final adjustment should be 1/16 closer togetner at the front than the rear . Toe in at the front helps keep the front wheel travel in a straight line and avoid death wobble . Check out Marcos site for the fine details of this operation .
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02-20-2019, 02:35 PM | #8 |
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Re: Adjusting
One thing an alignment shop can do is also check the caster, camber, and king pin slop, as well as adjusting the proper toe adjustment. The shop I used even straightened my slightly bent tie rod.
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02-20-2019, 04:41 PM | #9 |
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Re: Adjusting
I weld together a gauge and brace it so it will not move as I use it. It has a fine pointer on each end set such a distance apart that they are both somehwere on the tread of the tyres - anywhere on the tread but at axle height.
I put a piece of masking tape on one tyre and put a fine line vertically on it. I set one pointer on it and put another piece of tape on the other tyre at the other pointer - accurately. Once I am happy with that, I remove the frame and roll the car forward one half of a turn of the wheels. The tape is now at the rear of the tyres. I then slide the frame under the car and check the lines on the tape against the pointers and adjust the tie rod till I get the desired 3mm or so of toe in. This method means that tyre runout, bent rims etc have no affect on the setting which can be set quite accurately.
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02-20-2019, 04:43 PM | #10 |
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Re: Adjusting
First thing i would do is jack up the car and spin the tires. Be surprised at how many are not true and have a distinct wobble in them.
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02-20-2019, 04:52 PM | #11 |
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Re: Adjusting
Parts supply houses for years have offered pump shafts (the shaft only no impeller) in either "standard" length (done to Ford's original drawing) or "extra length" (done about 1/4 inch longer to compensate for the bridge being worn back in the head.)
Perhaps the supplier of the rebuild pump does "extra" to give everyone a chance to fit their own? Joe K
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02-20-2019, 04:57 PM | #12 |
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Re: Adjusting
I do basically the same as Synchro, except I rotate the tire and scribe a mark on each near the center. If I make a change to the tie rod, I always roll the car rear and then forward to relieve pull on the tires.
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02-20-2019, 04:59 PM | #13 |
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Re: Adjusting
Thank you for the many and very tricky hints. I begin with the chalk line method to see how rude I lie next to it. Then I will refine the measurement effort.
I will report and say thanks you for your help!
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02-20-2019, 11:36 PM | #14 |
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Re: Adjusting
I made my own tow in gauge as follows:
Take a length of 18mm (.75") dia plastic pipe and (2) end caps and glue end caps on each end of pipe. The final length of assembled pipe is to be 25mm - 40mm (1" - 1.5") smaller in length than distance beween inside of front tires. At one end of pipe drill and tap a hole for 6mm or 8mm (.25" or .312") machine screw. This is how I use gauge to adjust tow in: 1. Mark inside edge of tire at center point of tire from floor at front and rear of tire. Do this on both tires. 2. Hold one end of gauge against rear of marked tire and adjust screw at opposite end until it touches inside surface of tire. 3. Move the gauge to front inside tire marks. If the gauge is too short this means the tires are towing out or if the gauge is too long this means the tires are towing in. 4. Adjust tie rod according to the length of gauge measurement. Repeat measuring steps 2 & 3 and adjusting tie rod until the front inside distance measurement is 3mm (.125") less than the rear distance. This provides the correct tow in setting. |
02-21-2019, 10:15 AM | #15 |
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Re: Adjusting
I made my own rod from a Wallmart shower curtain and stick on tape from Hobby Lobby.
This is what I do. Loosen tie rod bolts (9/16”) on the left and right side of the tie rods. First, take the front tire measurement with shower rod. Front measurement must be 1/16 less than rear measurement. Thus, this will cause the toe in. / \ Second, pull the car forward so the rod will automatically be placed on the rear part of the tire when you push the car back. Read the tape and see what the toe in-out is. Make adjustments while rod is still positioned on the rear of the tire. Adjustment is done by clamping vise grip on tie rod and turning tie rod, either clockwise or counterclockwise. The turn is dependent if you need to adjust in or out. While turning tie rod you will see the shower rod moving on the scale on the shower rod. Do not make adjustments by turning spindles at end of tie rods, only the tie rods. On the right side tie rod turning the vice grip clockwise will decrease the measurement. |
02-21-2019, 11:47 AM | #16 |
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Re: Adjusting
Old31 is the way I do it also. Check You Tube there are a couple of guys who have posted how they do the adjustment.
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02-21-2019, 12:13 PM | #17 |
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Re: Adjusting
[QUOTE=zzlegend;1728963]First thing i would do is jack up the car and spin the tires. Be surprised at how many are not true and have a distinct wobble in them.[/QUOTE
Its good to see you back . ZZ !!! |
02-21-2019, 12:47 PM | #18 |
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Re: Adjusting
Hello Purdy. Hope all is well with you my friend.
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02-21-2019, 03:17 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Adjusting
Quote:
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02-21-2019, 03:34 PM | #20 |
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Re: Adjusting
Werner, what does "take the middle" mean? The "difference" in the two numbers is the toe-in - one number minus the other.
And measuring at exactly the same point on the tyres in front and behind the axle by rolling forward eliminates any wheel or tyre wobble. The spring loaded shower rail is a clever idea too, but I find a pointed end grips the tyre where a rubber bung can fall off as you roll forward. But maybe shower rails have a stronger spring than I used. SAJ in NZ |
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