The Ford Barn

Robert/Texas · 05-22-2020, 05:17 PM

When I bought my ’28 roadster in 1989 the lights and horn were not working and there were problems with the associated wiring. I replaced the horn rod as the end of it was broken off and I replaced the wiring harness and other things with repro parts except that I used the original switch housing. I remember having trouble getting everything working at the time. Now, after 31 years I’m having new problems.

The horn started blowing because the soft metal switch spider was badly twisted and worn, and the retainer clip had fallen out. Also, the spider spring was of light gauge and damaged.

I jacked up the front of the car and put jack stands under the axle so it would be easier to remove the engine splash pan before starting to work on this. I replaced the switch spider with a good one and a spring purchased from one of the vendors. I assembled this with the spider and the switch handle in the correct orientations. (I did think at the time that the spring seemed hard to compress.) Next I checked to see that the lights and horn worked and that I could feel the clicks in the light handle for the high and low beams and parking lights. Everything worked and I turned the steering wheel to the full right and left positions several times. Everything still worked and was satisfied that the job was finished.

Not so, when I took the car out and went around the third corner, the light handle turned to the left along with the steering wheel. I know that the harness was ruined as the wires were ripped out of it. I tried to reassemble it anyway but found that it is impossible to install the spider in the correct orientation. I believe that the plastic switch has somehow slipped in the metal housing. I can’t figure out how this could have happened.

I’d like to get this fixed but I’m not sure where to start.

All help and suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thanks, Robert

CarlG · 05-22-2020, 09:27 PM

Sacramento Vintage Ford makes an excellent harness that will replace your worn and frayed wires. Reasonable price and not too difficult to install.

Robert/Texas · 05-23-2020, 08:51 AM

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Good suggestion Carl, but it begs another question.

I believe that my old switch was an original one because it looks old and the area of the switch where the drain hole is located looks a lot different than the repro switches. I still have the repro switch which I bought in 1989 which I could not use due to quality issues.

Are the “Made in USA” switches that they are selling today better? I realize that they are longer than the early originals, but I don’t think that I can salvage that old switch.

Thanks, Robert

05-22-2020, 05:17 PM	#1
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 680	Light Switch Problem When I bought my ’28 roadster in 1989 the lights and horn were not working and there were problems with the associated wiring. I replaced the horn rod as the end of it was broken off and I replaced the wiring harness and other things with repro parts except that I used the original switch housing. I remember having trouble getting everything working at the time. Now, after 31 years I’m having new problems. The horn started blowing because the soft metal switch spider was badly twisted and worn, and the retainer clip had fallen out. Also, the spider spring was of light gauge and damaged. I jacked up the front of the car and put jack stands under the axle so it would be easier to remove the engine splash pan before starting to work on this. I replaced the switch spider with a good one and a spring purchased from one of the vendors. I assembled this with the spider and the switch handle in the correct orientations. (I did think at the time that the spring seemed hard to compress.) Next I checked to see that the lights and horn worked and that I could feel the clicks in the light handle for the high and low beams and parking lights. Everything worked and I turned the steering wheel to the full right and left positions several times. Everything still worked and was satisfied that the job was finished. Not so, when I took the car out and went around the third corner, the light handle turned to the left along with the steering wheel. I know that the harness was ruined as the wires were ripped out of it. I tried to reassemble it anyway but found that it is impossible to install the spider in the correct orientation. I believe that the plastic switch has somehow slipped in the metal housing. I can’t figure out how this could have happened. I’d like to get this fixed but I’m not sure where to start. All help and suggestions will be much appreciated. Thanks, Robert

05-22-2020, 09:27 PM	#2
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: Light Switch Problem Sacramento Vintage Ford makes an excellent harness that will replace your worn and frayed wires. Reasonable price and not too difficult to install. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

05-23-2020, 08:51 AM	#3
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 680	Re: Light Switch Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Good suggestion Carl, but it begs another question. I believe that my old switch was an original one because it looks old and the area of the switch where the drain hole is located looks a lot different than the repro switches. I still have the repro switch which I bought in 1989 which I could not use due to quality issues. Are the “Made in USA” switches that they are selling today better? I realize that they are longer than the early originals, but I don’t think that I can salvage that old switch. Thanks, Robert