The Ford Barn

VFRhugh · 07-28-2015, 09:50 AM

Distributor drive gear alignment?
I know nothing about this engine other than the previous owner had it rebuilt. In the pursuit of stopping an oil leak, exhaust leak, checking crankshaft bearing clearances and seeing what I have in this engine, I pulled the engine yesterday. I've removed the head, manifolds, distributor, starter, flywheel, housing, and valve cover.
It has stainless steel valves and adjustable lifters so that's good. Haven't dropped the pan yet because I'm not sure about the oil pump. I bought the special tool to hold the pump in place but my block has a stuck plug. I'll try using an "ease out" to remove it. So far I've researched each step before turning a wrench and its gone smoothly. With the oil pump plug issue not so confident I know what will happen when I drop the pan. Hopefully it will come out with the pan. Eventually things will have to be reassembled. I can't find any instructions on line or in my Les Andrews books on distributor gear alignment. I know the drive gear slot is offset so there has to be a procedure to install the gear.
If anyone could steer me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
Thanks, Hugh

Bob C · 07-28-2015, 11:13 AM

You don't have to align anything with the drive gear, you will just have to
set the timing when you reinstall the distributor.

Bob

old ford fan · 07-28-2015, 11:17 AM

Just drop it in. Than You'lll have to line up the pin in the front cover with the dimple on the cam gear and make sure #1 is at TDC on compression stroke, then set timing with distributor cam lobe / points. Do a search on timing on this forum for good direction.

CarlG · 07-28-2015, 11:30 AM

You don't have to pin the oil pump when taking the pan off. Just be careful not to let the pump come down when you aren't expecting it.

Going back with the pan, pinning the pump makes things a whole bunch easier, but even then it is not 100% necessary.

MAG · 07-28-2015, 11:40 AM

" I'll try using an "ease out" to remove it." Unless you have a top quality "Ease Out" they can create a problem. And additional revenue for a machine shop.
Instead, try welding a flat washer on the plug and welding a nut on the washer. It's the same method as used for removing a broken stud in the block.

Bob C · 07-28-2015, 12:16 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I think easy-outs were invented by a machinist that bought a new
EDM machine and wanted a way to pay for it.

Bob

aermotor · 07-28-2015, 12:39 PM

I agree about Easy Outs - not good. I have found that pipe extractors work very well with broke off pipes. They only come in pipe sizes 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. made by Ridgid. That being said I have not run across any busted off pipes on a Model A

burner31 · 07-28-2015, 12:49 PM

Steer clear of easy-outs, if the tips break off in the bolt your kinda screwed, they don't drill out and you just doubled your work...guess how I know this.

George Miller · 07-28-2015, 01:52 PM

I have always called easy outs hard outs.

Patrick L. · 07-28-2015, 02:18 PM

It appears that you don't really have to hold the oil pump since you have removed the engine and can probably turn it over and just remove the pan.

However, if you've already drilled out the side plug you'll probably end up drilling it and re-tapping it. If its been drilled in the center of the plug, progressively larger drills can be used until the right original size tap can be used to clean up the threads.

VFRhugh · 07-28-2015, 02:49 PM

Update:
Dropped the pan. The oil pump stayed in the block. There is a little up and down play but something is holding it in. The Pistons look new from the bottom. Haven't checked bearing clearance yet. Turning the engine over by hand it's tight and easy. Wondering if it's drag from the cam lobes or something else. The timing gear covers were leaking and lots of sealer on both ends of the pan. Done for the day, it's hot here even with a little window unit in my shop.

bunnyc · 07-28-2015, 02:49 PM

I think I read a post on here recently warning not to turn the engine upside down to remove the oil pan. All the crud will fall back into the engine.

Tom Wesenberg · 07-28-2015, 08:37 PM

I would remove the pan before turning the engine upside down, just to be sure all the crud stays in the pan bottom. You don't need to remove the plug on the side of the block, but if you want to you could try an impact driver. You can buy a cheap one from H/F for about $10. Even if the engine was in the car and you were removing the pan, you still don't need to remove the plug. When I didn't have my oil pump holding tool handy I just wrapped a piece of wire around the pump and held it up by using a bungee cord hooked to the wire so it pulled to the side and up. Once the pan bolts are started just remove the wire from around the pump, then finish tightening the bolts.

07-28-2015, 11:13 AM	#2
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,747	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment You don't have to align anything with the drive gear, you will just have to set the timing when you reinstall the distributor. Bob

07-28-2015, 11:17 AM	#3
old ford fan Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Wisconsin Posts: 38	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment Just drop it in. Than You'lll have to line up the pin in the front cover with the dimple on the cam gear and make sure #1 is at TDC on compression stroke, then set timing with distributor cam lobe / points. Do a search on timing on this forum for good direction.

07-28-2015, 11:30 AM	#4
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment You don't have to pin the oil pump when taking the pan off. Just be careful not to let the pump come down when you aren't expecting it. Going back with the pan, pinning the pump makes things a whole bunch easier, but even then it is not 100% necessary. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

07-28-2015, 11:40 AM	#5
MAG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 925	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment " I'll try using an "ease out" to remove it." Unless you have a top quality "Ease Out" they can create a problem. And additional revenue for a machine shop. Instead, try welding a flat washer on the plug and welding a nut on the washer. It's the same method as used for removing a broken stud in the block. __________________ I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get!

07-28-2015, 12:16 PM	#6
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,747	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I think easy-outs were invented by a machinist that bought a new EDM machine and wanted a way to pay for it. Bob

07-28-2015, 09:50 AM	#1
VFRhugh Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 177	New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment Distributor drive gear alignment? I know nothing about this engine other than the previous owner had it rebuilt. In the pursuit of stopping an oil leak, exhaust leak, checking crankshaft bearing clearances and seeing what I have in this engine, I pulled the engine yesterday. I've removed the head, manifolds, distributor, starter, flywheel, housing, and valve cover. It has stainless steel valves and adjustable lifters so that's good. Haven't dropped the pan yet because I'm not sure about the oil pump. I bought the special tool to hold the pump in place but my block has a stuck plug. I'll try using an "ease out" to remove it. So far I've researched each step before turning a wrench and its gone smoothly. With the oil pump plug issue not so confident I know what will happen when I drop the pan. Hopefully it will come out with the pan. Eventually things will have to be reassembled. I can't find any instructions on line or in my Les Andrews books on distributor gear alignment. I know the drive gear slot is offset so there has to be a procedure to install the gear. If anyone could steer me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Hugh

07-28-2015, 12:39 PM	#7
aermotor Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,099	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment I agree about Easy Outs - not good. I have found that pipe extractors work very well with broke off pipes. They only come in pipe sizes 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. made by Ridgid. That being said I have not run across any busted off pipes on a Model A

07-28-2015, 12:49 PM	#8
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment Steer clear of easy-outs, if the tips break off in the bolt your kinda screwed, they don't drill out and you just doubled your work...guess how I know this. __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

07-28-2015, 01:52 PM	#9
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment I have always called easy outs hard outs.

07-28-2015, 02:18 PM	#10
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment It appears that you don't really have to hold the oil pump since you have removed the engine and can probably turn it over and just remove the pan. However, if you've already drilled out the side plug you'll probably end up drilling it and re-tapping it. If its been drilled in the center of the plug, progressively larger drills can be used until the right original size tap can be used to clean up the threads.

07-28-2015, 02:49 PM	#11
VFRhugh Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 177	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment Update: Dropped the pan. The oil pump stayed in the block. There is a little up and down play but something is holding it in. The Pistons look new from the bottom. Haven't checked bearing clearance yet. Turning the engine over by hand it's tight and easy. Wondering if it's drag from the cam lobes or something else. The timing gear covers were leaking and lots of sealer on both ends of the pan. Done for the day, it's hot here even with a little window unit in my shop.

07-28-2015, 02:49 PM	#12
bunnyc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: KY Posts: 296	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment I think I read a post on here recently warning not to turn the engine upside down to remove the oil pan. All the crud will fall back into the engine.

07-28-2015, 08:37 PM	#13
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: New Owner Million Questions:Distributor gear alignment I would remove the pan before turning the engine upside down, just to be sure all the crud stays in the pan bottom. You don't need to remove the plug on the side of the block, but if you want to you could try an impact driver. You can buy a cheap one from H/F for about $10. Even if the engine was in the car and you were removing the pan, you still don't need to remove the plug. When I didn't have my oil pump holding tool handy I just wrapped a piece of wire around the pump and held it up by using a bungee cord hooked to the wire so it pulled to the side and up. Once the pan bolts are started just remove the wire from around the pump, then finish tightening the bolts.