rear main seal 46 ford flathead v8

[46 ford]

hello everyone,
I enjoy searching the forums for answers, but I am having trouble installing my graphite rear main seal in the engine while it is still in the truck. I removed the rear cap and was not able to pull the new seal through. I then loosened the other two mains in attempt to drop the crank slightly, but no luck. I am assuming that because the output shaft is still connected to the transmission is the reason why the crank will not drop enough. I torqued the front two caps back on and am considering loosening the transmission mounting bolts to the bellhousing and then jacking the block up slightly to give the needed clearance to pull the seal through. Having said all this, the Chinese finger puller that Mac's sells was not available., I bought a puller at NAPA, which was supposed to have a Chinese finger in it, but the new tool does not include the Chinese finger puller but a clip is supplied. This clip has pulled out of the end where I fastened it as I attempted to pull the seal through. The seal got about an inch and a half in and then the clip lets loose. I have ordered a new seal because my first attempts have ruined the seal. Wondering if the Chinese finger puller is better and if anybody has used this puller to install these seals with the engine in the vehicle. Would appreciate any tips or suggestions.
thanks

[don-wi]

Did you lube the seal up good with some motor oil? It helps it slide through. Don

[46 ford]

don,
thanks for responding. Yes, we lubed the graphite rope seal with silicone lube as the instructions told us to.
thanks
laurus

[4t8v8]

Sometimes having someone turn the crankshaft while you pull the seal helps. Only do this with the main caps are tight. It can help to gain a little space by tying the clutch down which will release the transmission from the flywheel. Don't turn the crankshaft while the mains are loose!!!

[46 ford]

4t8v8 Thanks for the advise .i WILL TRY TYING THE CLUTCH DOWN. That sounds like a good tip. Do you think that it would be possible to loosen the center main abit and still turn the crank? Have you used the chinese pull before?

[4t8v8]

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I wouldn't try to turn the crank with the mains loosened. It would just move from side to side with nothing to hold it in the center. I have used the Chinese puller before with the white Fel-Pro seal, but not with the graphite seal. They are very soft, but it might work. The upper seal is a real problem to trim with the crankshaft in. I have had a bit of luck just replacing the lower seal and leaving it a little long, but it sounds like you have already removed the upper one.

[46 ford]

Yes ,my upper seal is already out. I will try itagain when the new seal comes in the mail.I appreciate the feed back and will post the results. I don't think it will be before the weekend
Thanks, Laurus.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Well--I've never had to replace the rope seal in the car, all of mine have held up well after overhaul, but I think you are going about this wrong. Your '46 should have a cast zinc holder for that seal...loosen things up to slightly drop crank, use a punch (brass or other soft metal if possible) and tap on the end of the zinc holder. Unless the builder used a really killer sealant in there, it should rotate out.
Then you can install the seal into it, pack the rope down as well as possible with a cylindrical tool (or perhaps just tap the assembly against the exposed lower curve of crank) then with crank still loose add sealer and rotate the thing into its home.

[46 ford]

Hi bruce,this is interesting information. Tommorow evening I will have a closer look to try to identify this zinc holder.I will let you know how i make out. Thanks ,Laurus.

[Bruce Lancaster]

6335 (6336 is the lower one), but fairly hard to see in this pic:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...m_1940to48.JPG

It can be easy to get out or it can be close to impossible without removeng crank...it depends on what sealer was used when it went in. Sealer is necessary to stop oil from finding its way out around the back. Everything is cut to a circular arc, so it can slither out smoothly if the sealer lets go. Try lots of spray carb cleaner if stuck!

[46 ford]

Bruce, thanks for the link. It was helpfull. I have defintley confimed that this zinc holder is part of my engine.I hope to try this by the end of the week and will post the outcome.
Thanks again ,Laurus.

[46 ford]

Ok Bruce, I used a hardwood dowel as a punch- I gave it a few taps and the zinc retainer came out easy as pie! The backside of the retainer against the flywheel was covered in oil. I am assuming that this indicates a seal failure at the mating surface of the block and the zinc retainer. I will clean this surface somehow and reseal on reassembly. Do you have any suggestions for the sealant needed?

Thanks again,
Laurus

[Bruce Lancaster]

I kinda think traditional aviation Permatex, sweet-smelling goo in a can with a brush in the lid. My can of it is about a million years old and has half the shell of a broken deuce ammeter stuck to it...
This stuff seals well and i think will disintegrate with a blast of carb cleaner so you can get the thing out in some future disaster.
Cleaning that surface...spray carb cleaner, then spray brake cleaner becasue it leaves no oily residue to interfere with sealing goo.

[46 ford]

I think I have a can of this as well. I can,t go any further until the seal comes in the mail, so I think i will spend Saturday at the Waterdown show and swap meet.
Thanks very much to both Don and Bruce for the help.
Laurus.