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Old 12-05-2016, 02:48 AM   #1
jfreddie
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Default Rear main oil seal fitting

I'm replacing the rear main neoprene oil seal on a standard A crank with the oil slinger machined down.
The seal doesn't fit snuggly in the groove at the back of the block.
The instructions say to use sealer sparingly.
What is the best sealer to use and how much?
I don't want to plug the drain.
Is there a better seal to use instead of the neoprene donut?
Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:14 AM   #2
George Miller
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfreddie View Post
I'm replacing the rear main neoprene oil seal on a standard A crank with the oil slinger machined down.
The seal doesn't fit snuggly in the groove at the back of the block.
The instructions say to use sealer sparingly.
What is the best sealer to use and how much?
I don't want to plug the drain.
Is there a better seal to use instead of the neoprene donut?
Thanks.
Good luck with that seal.
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:20 PM   #3
jfreddie
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Thanks, just trying to get some idea if others have had this issue and what to do.

Is there a better, different seal to use besides the one available in Snyders?

I heard there is a Chrysler seal but don't know the number.

Thanks...
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:56 PM   #4
AL in NY
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

jfreddie, I made an inquiry to Dan Mceachern a couple months ago and he suggested using the rope seal made for the 216 Chevy 6. Here's his answer: "One suggestion that seemed to work well for the 1st 50-60 years of hot rodding an A block was to just use a rope seal like from a 216 Chevrolet 6 cylinder. Fit the rope seal into the groove in the cap and in the aluminum adapter. You will find the grooves too deep to crush the seal properly, but the old time fix was to put a piece of small diameter copper tubing behind the seal material. It takes some futzing around to get it just right, but it worked for many years. After you get the rope seal installed and the cap tight, turn over the crank a few times and remove the cap and crank- the seal surface needs to be burnished or you have not crushed the seal sufficiently. Also- make sure the drain hole and tube is open."
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:49 AM   #5
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Thanks, interesting fix.
Could probably cut the rope seal in half and install it similar to the front crank seal.
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:19 PM   #6
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

I tried the one piece seal but never sealed !
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:24 PM   #7
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

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Originally Posted by jfreddie View Post
Thanks, interesting fix.
Could probably cut the rope seal in half and install it similar to the front crank seal.
Hey Freddie,
'better seal' ...whose seal is in there now, if you can say ?
I use Burtz one piece seal AND the specially made (for this purpose)dan4banger alum seal with.
SBC chev seal is also in use and I understand other makers seals also are used. The two that I have in use now, are Burtz/Dan combo (with NO leaks). The 'little' bit of sealant would, IMO, be just a little to help hold the oil sealed at the corners of where the block/cap meet..a small 'dab'..

NOTE: proper install is critical for proper function. Do you know who did the work and has that person done this type seal before yours ? Expertise and perfect workmanship equal no leak , in my experience. They work if installed as required.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

I've just installed a new Burlington crankshaft because the previous one (cracked) leaked at both ends despite fitting one piece seals at both ends.
The slinger was machined off and the shaft built up by wire welding and then machined to take a two piece Holden (GM) oil seal.
I believe that there was some modification to the crankcase etc., to fit the oil seal.
It was found that the front oil seal was being damaged by the sharp edge of the pulley when inserted and this was rounded to sort the problem.
A test run proved the engine to be oil tight.
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Old 12-06-2016, 06:18 PM   #9
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by AL in NY View Post
jfreddie, I made an inquiry to Dan Mceachern a couple months ago and he suggested using the rope seal made for the 216 Chevy 6. Here's his answer: "One suggestion that seemed to work well for the 1st 50-60 years of hot rodding an A block was to just use a rope seal like from a 216 Chevrolet 6 cylinder. Fit the rope seal into the groove in the cap and in the aluminum adapter. You will find the grooves too deep to crush the seal properly, but the old time fix was to put a piece of small diameter copper tubing behind the seal material. It takes some futzing around to get it just right, but it worked for many years. After you get the rope seal installed and the cap tight, turn over the crank a few times and remove the cap and crank- the seal surface needs to be burnished or you have not crushed the seal sufficiently. Also- make sure the drain hole and tube is open."
None of the rope seals are available anymore. I have tried to find them and Fel-Pro has discontinued. The rope seal won't work on a crank that the slinger has been removed for the neoprene seal. To use the rope the slinger was only removed to the same diameter as the thrust ring so it could "bite" into the rope. I replace the slingers all the time and have had a 100% success rate. Mind you, the bearings have to be good and able to clearance correctly.
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:38 PM   #10
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

My crank slinger was turned to fit the Burtz seal. It seems to fit the crank fine, just loose in the aluminum block seal.
Sounds like I need one of those dan4banger seals. Just Google dan4banger?
Thanks for all the input. Saves a lot of anguish later.
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:14 AM   #11
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

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Originally Posted by jfreddie View Post
My crank slinger was turned to fit the Burtz seal. It seems to fit the crank fine, just loose in the aluminum block seal.
Sounds like I need one of those dan4banger seals. Just Google dan4banger?
Thanks for all the input. Saves a lot of anguish later.
That's right, just google him and order his custom made (for the Burtz) alum seal. Just any alum seal, like the orig...will not do. I believe that that's what you have found out. Good luck
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:09 AM   #12
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

hardtimes, I checked out the dan4banger web site and unless I missed something, that aluminum seal you're referring to is for the "B" engine, not the "A".
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:50 AM   #13
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

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Originally Posted by AL in NY View Post
hardtimes, I checked out the dan4banger web site and unless I missed something, that aluminum seal you're referring to is for the "B" engine, not the "A".
Hey Al,
Correct !
Dan may also make such for A engine. He will talk to a guy and he will most likely be helpful/know if alum seal for A is available. Also Terry Burtz (maker of the Burtz seal) is very helpful/knowledgeable and may have helpful knowledge. Speak with him also.

I only work B blocks. My error, for not pointing that up.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:33 PM   #14
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Getting back to the A blocks, has anyone used a Burtz Nitrele lip seal for the rear main or is it only for B block?

If this is not the way to go, what is the next best setup for the A block rear main seal.
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:34 PM   #15
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

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Originally Posted by James Rogers View Post
None of the rope seals are available anymore.
Don't know for the Chevy Six Banger but I just replaced one in a Ford Y-Block 312 incher.
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Old 12-09-2016, 09:55 PM   #16
jfreddie
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Got a nice message from Mr.Burtz. He said my best bet was to find an original A block seal to use with the nitrile seal.
I found one, and he is absolutely correct. The nitrile seal is a perfect fit in that original block seal but sloppy in the aftermarket one.
Who knew!
Many thanks to Mr. Burtz for getting personally involved and making a fine product.
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:01 PM   #17
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Do we have a number for the correct Burtz seal to use?
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:31 PM   #18
Terry Burtz, Calif
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Model A Rear Main Seal Part Numbers from major parts houses.
Snyder's A-6336
Bratton's 8970
Bert's A06335M
MAC's A-6335N
Mike's A-6336MOD
Sacramento 00249-4
Gaslight A-6336
Many smaller dealers and machine shops do not use numbers.
Send a private message to me with and I'll send a copy of the installation instructions.
Model B Seals are entirely different with different numbers.
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Old 12-11-2016, 07:31 PM   #19
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Default Re: Rear main oil seal fitting

Terry Burtz, calif , Thanks for the information and part numbers. sent you a PM.
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