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Old 07-10-2016, 09:48 AM   #1
k24556
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Default Steering column 29 A

I'm at the stage of restoration where I need to disassemble, clean, paint and fix the steering column. I don't have a good set of instructions to help me separate the steering wheel from the column so I can fix the horn switch, and light switch. The throttle and spark advance also need work, so if anyone has a set of disassembly instructions, they would be appreciated. Getting the horn button and light switch out seems to be the first step, but not sure how they come out.

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:58 AM   #2
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

Did you know that this is a steering column for a '30-31 Model A? Not just the steering wheel, but also the quadrant design is '30-31. My guess is someone took out the seven-tooth column and put in this later one because it is a better functioning two-tooth design than the old seven-tooth. Before you put a lot of money rebuilding this one, are you sure you want to stay with the wrong year steering column? '29 two-tooth columns are harder to find than the '28-29 seven-tooths, but if you want the two-tooth design in your car, you can find the correct one for your year. Advertise here for one.
Marshall
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:33 AM   #3
DUNN1929
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

Whichever way you decide to go, Les Pearson's book The Complete Model A Ford Restoration Manual has an excellent description of how to disassemble the steering column.
I am also in the steering column process now and find that I use both Les Pearson's book along with the Model A Ford Meechanic's Handbook by Les Andrews.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:22 AM   #4
k24556
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

I would prefer to stick with this one if possible. The previous owner made a lot of mods, hyd brakes, B engine, now this, so It is not an original by any means. I want to get it back to functionality, and clearing up rust and bad wiring, is the plan for this.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:28 AM   #5
bunnyc
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

From Les Andrew's book:
Release the bail wire from the light switch (push bail wire down) at the end of the steering column. Pull the light switch bulb from the end of the steering column.
Push up slightly on the switch spider to remove the retaining clip, spider, and spring from the end of the horn rod.
Pull the horn rod from the center of the steering wheel.

That should get you started in the right direction.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:30 AM   #6
Bob C
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

You need to remove the little C-clip at the bottom of the light switch rod
to remove the rod.

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Old 07-10-2016, 11:55 AM   #7
JBill
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

If you do start switching things around (new horn rod, e.g.) be aware that there are different steering tube lengths.
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Old 07-16-2016, 02:53 PM   #8
k24556
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

OK. with the great advice I got here, I'm in the middle of disassembly. I got the switch off and the tube out. Everything cleans up pretty good. I expected a wire or something in the center of the tube that connects the horn button to the wiring. I noticed on Snyders that they sell a kit that has a wire and what looks to be connectors. Am I correct in assuming the wire goes up the tube and connects to the button?
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Old 07-16-2016, 03:11 PM   #9
Joe K
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Default Re: Steering column 29 A

Quote:
Originally Posted by k24556 View Post
OK. with the great advice I got here, I'm in the middle of disassembly. I got the switch off and the tube out. Everything cleans up pretty good. I expected a wire or something in the center of the tube that connects the horn button to the wiring. I noticed on Snyders that they sell a kit that has a wire and what looks to be connectors. Am I correct in assuming the wire goes up the tube and connects to the button?
This true. If you have continuity problems with the horn switch, you can either replace only the wire, the switch (which can be bought as a sub-assembly) or the entire center turn thingy going from the wheel down to the light switch.

Keep in mind the horn works by "grounding" the horn circuit (i.e. battery, then horn, then switch, then ground.) This may have not been among Ford's better arrangements (although I can't complain about mine) and it seems a lot of horn switches were "relocated" to the dash-board by people attempting to pass the vehicle inspection.

Its nice when the horn works "conventionally" however. Original may be required in some states ("Safety equipment" - beware!)

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