Third Brush Adjustment

[spinelll]

Referring to the attachment. Is that the third brush?
Trying to increase the output.
Attempted to move the brush towards me. That is, towards the driver's side.
But it doesn't budge. Is there something to loosen?

Thanks
Leo

[nkaminar]

Here is a video that may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYlpy75GdA4
There is something funny about your generator. The bushes should all ride in the center of the commutator. Your brush is off to one side.

Plus, here is a thread from 2014 that may be helpful. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...t=adjust+brush

[Bob C]

That looks like the ground brush. X2 the brush is not all the way on the commutator.

[rotorwrench]

That appears to be a straight down photo shot so the brush that is evident is for the ground on the right side of the gen and is fixed. The brush that is approximately 180 degrees from it on the left and slightly lower side is the fixed power output brush. The 3rd brush or field current control brush is just above the power brush and is the only movable one. It is mounted on a ring that has a good bit of friction applied to it to keep the brush from moving on its own.

The generator does seem to have a problem with centering of that ground brush and likely has a problem with the others as well, That generator may either have the wrong armature in it or the generator is in a state of disassembly that allows it to move too far forward. It may have a brush location problem but the brushes are generally right in the middle of the windows there and all three are even with each other in distance from the backing plate.

[Badpuppy]

I vote for wrong armature - short nose in a long nose. Third brush is under the gnarl of whatever below the other slot. Ground brush he's trying to move has stranded wire to ground.

[David R.]

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Pull it out and rebuild

[spinelll]

Ok, so my arrow was not pointed to the 3rd brush. It's the one below it, surrounded by wires.And I did notice that only about 3/4 of the brushes are in contact with the commutator.


Thanks for the responses.



What is the recommended charging rate at a mid to high rev?

[Patrick L.]

I think the generator needs to come apart and looked at.

Charge rate depends on what type cut-out is used and how the vehicle is run. A standard cut-out I like 3-4 amps for normal daylight light operation with occasional night use. 8-10 amps if used a lot at night. I don't like to run more than 10 amps with these generators.

[nkaminar]

Ford recommended that the mechanics at the dealers measure the electrolyte specific gravity when the car came in for service and change the charge rate accordingly. Each driver had different requirements.

I recommend that, in addition to the normal ammeter, you install a volt meter. It is a better method to keep track of the battery. For a 6 volt battery, the voltage should be between 7 and 7.3 volts after the car has been driven for at least 5 miles.

[rotorwrench]

System voltage depends on the condition of the battery so that may not always be reliable. Some folks set it high and run the lights all the time. Those that don't drive at night much and don't want to run lights all the time can set it lower. Even the alternators have a tendency to overcharge the battery.

[spinelll]

Whoa!
I just noticed why the brushes are not in complete contact with the commutator.
Pictures are worth 1,000 words. That armature shaft has a load of play.
When I push it in manually, the brushes are in full contact.

I image that once it's spinning, centrifugal force is pulling it out.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

I think the generator needs to come apart and looked at.

Ditto

[nkaminar]

You may be missing a thrust washer or two.

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

You may be missing a thrust washer or two.

When you say thrust washer, which part(s) are you referring to?

[nkaminar]

Look at all the parts from item 17 through 23, especially items 20 (two parts). Also the hardware that holds the front bearing assembly all together, items 13, 15, and 24.

[spinelll]

Ok. Thanks.

[Bob C]

Here is a picture posted a few years ago by Tom.

[Bill Cilker]

The picture that Bob C. posted is for the generator style that was produced before your style. Your generator has a bushing on the rear plate, not a roller bearing.

[spinelll]

A club member lent me a generator that had no shaft play, to which I attached my original cutout. Hooked everything up and it "seemed" ok.


I wasn't sure how good my ammeter was so later on, I decided to swapped it with a new one I had laying around. What I failed to notice was that the old ammeter was a 30-30 and the new one is a 20-20.



Whoa, the new ammeter jumps around like a road lizard on hot macadam. At either slow or high idle, it wobbles like mad. At slow idle with the lights on I'm wiggling around -10, at high idle lights off +10 but it moves so much, it's hard to get an accurate reading.



Where have I gone wrong? I know, the list is long.

Do I re-install the old ammeter?

How do you check the current from the cutout with a multi-meter?


Thanks
Leo

[rotorwrench]

Ammeters have to read the flow in the line which means they have to be connected in the line. The best place to do that is where the OEM ammeter location is since it separates the battery side from the charge side. The original ammeters were cheap little trinkets back in the day but they are worlds better in function and quality from the crap they sell for reproductions in the modern era. A hall effect ammeter with a clamp over the line would be better than trying to connect a multi-meter in the line. Digital units can give flaky indications. An ammeter with a d'arsonval needle movement is better.