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04-30-2015, 01:26 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Riverview, Florida
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Starting a cold engine
Would somebody tell me the proper way to start a cold engine? Please.
My email address is [email protected] Thank you. |
04-30-2015, 01:30 PM | #2 |
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Location: Redding Cal
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Re: Starting a cold engine
I choke the car with the ignition off then turn it on and start the car.
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04-30-2015, 01:43 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
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Re: Starting a cold engine
How cold ?
Turn on fuel open GAV 1/2 extra turn left lever up right lever down couple clicks key on press start switch pull choke out for couple/several engine revolutions then release should be running by now |
04-30-2015, 04:31 PM | #4 |
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Location: Livingston, Louisiana
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Try this link.
http://modelabasics.com/Starting%20&%20Driving.htm
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Ryan Scardina Livingston, Louisiana 1930 LSU Model A |
04-30-2015, 04:38 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Quote:
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04-30-2015, 05:26 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Starting a cold engine
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04-30-2015, 10:50 PM | #7 |
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Re: Starting a cold engine
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
04-30-2015, 11:35 PM | #8 |
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Re: Starting a cold engine
From the Ford Model A Instruction Manual
Before Starting the Engine Be sure the gear shift lever is in neutral position, i. e., the position in which it can be moved freely from side to side. Advance the throttle lever located under the steering wheel (right hand side) about three notches, or until the accelerator pedal moves slightly downward. Pulling down the throttle lever or pressing on the accelerator pedal, controls the quantity of gas entering the cylinders, and regulates the Figure t speed of the engine. Place the spark lever (left hand) at the top of the quadrant (the notched quarter-circle on which the lever is operated). This is the retard position. T he spark lever regulates the timing of the spark which explodes the gas in the cylinders. Always retard the spark lever when starting your car. Starting the engine with the spark advanced may cause the engine to kick back, and damage the starter parts. After the engine is started, advance the spark lever about half way down the quadrant. Starting the Engine 1. Release the lock cylinder by turning the switch key to the right as described on Page 6. 2. See that the spark lever is retarded; the throttle lever advanced three or four notches on the quadrant and the gear shift lever in neutral position. 3. If the engine is cold, turn the carburetor adjusting rod one full turn to the left to give it a richer mixture for starting. This rod serves both as a choke for starting and as an enriching adjustment. Next pull back the rod, at the same time pressing down on the starter button with your foot. The instant the engine starts, withdraw your foot from the starter button and release the choke rod, next advance the spark lever about half way down the quadrant. When the engine warms up, turn the adjusting rod back to the right. Never drive continuously with adjusting rod more than ~turn open. (See Adjustment of Carburetor, Page 24.) When starting a warm engine, do not pull back the choke unless the engine fails to start on the normal mixture as there is a possibility of flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas. lf you should by accident flood the engine, open the throttle and with the choke rod in normal position, turn the engine over a few times to exhaust the rich gas. Hope this helps Ian |
05-01-2015, 07:42 AM | #9 |
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Re: Starting a cold engine
The advice above is spot on, as newbie myself, I was over chocking and flooding the engine at first.
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-Mike Late 31' Ford Model A Tudor, Miss Daisy I don't work on cars --I'm learning about my Model A. Cleveland, Ohio |
05-01-2015, 08:21 AM | #10 |
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Location: Colorado Springs
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Re: Starting a cold engine
As stated, every engine is different. I choke no more than a half-second. Just a blip.
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05-01-2015, 08:49 AM | #11 |
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Location: Bend Or.
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Re: Starting a cold engine
I agree, I turn the engine over and pull the choke, immedialtely pushing it back in. Starts every time even in single digit weather.
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Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup Smith Motor Compressor 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's |
05-01-2015, 08:55 AM | #12 |
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Location: Kennesaw, Ga
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Re: Starting a cold engine
I live in North Georgia and it rarely gets cold enough to need more than a quick choke. 1 or 2 revolutions at the most. Florida might not need chocking.
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05-01-2015, 09:04 AM | #13 |
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Location: Windy City
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Yes to the choking, same here. When we first started out we were using the choke way too much. Only need to pull the choke out for two or three revolutions that's it.
Don't need to use it at all on a warmed up motor. This is on a properly tuned engine. A Model A Ford is a LOT easier to start than an early V-8 in my opinion. Our '36 is pretty tempermental a lot more so than the Model A ever thought of being |
05-01-2015, 09:56 AM | #14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, Australia
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Re: Starting a cold engine
I posted this 2 years ago, but it's still relevant today, and into the future. Also, this is for a RHD model A.
1. As is always important, open the door and get in. 2. Get back out, go back to the house, retrieve the ignition keys, go back to the shed and get back in the car. 3. Place key in ignition, turn on. 4. Check that it is in neutral. 5. Open GAV one turn. 6. Ensure spark and throttle levers are up. 7. Pull up choke rod. 8. Guide foot through and around clutch pedal and hand brake lever. 9. Place foot on starter. 10. Swear, then bend across to L/H side, lift up floor covering and battery hatch and turn on battery. 11. Sit up, and get foot past clutch pedal, hand brake lever again. 12. Press foot on starter. 13. After two warumps, release choke and away it fires. 14. Turn in GAV to set a good pucka-ticka idle. 15. Place foot on clutch, slide it into reverse. 16. Back out of shed and get half way down drive. 17. Swear again, reach under tank and turn fuel on. 18. It's warm enough, so get your foot back past clutch pedal and hand brake lever. 19. Just touch the starter. 20. It fired right up, get out, close shed, get back in, drive, enjoy and smile. |
05-01-2015, 10:05 AM | #15 |
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Location: Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
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Re: Starting a cold engine
He he he! Steps 10 and 17! Ain't that the truth??!!
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05-01-2015, 10:10 AM | #16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,175
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Even worse in my Durant. I have to get out, lift the bonnet to turn the fuel on under the vacuum tank.
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05-01-2015, 11:20 AM | #17 |
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Posts: 492
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Re: Starting a cold engine
They all have their "secret handshake" which is part of the A experience. Mine has a Tilly carb on it and I need to hear 3-4 turns of the starter (the growl as it rotates) and let go of the choke for it to start. If it's below 40deg maybe 6 growls and I need more from the GAV at first. The throttle lever just barely moving the foot pedal is a key ingredient to having it catch and stay running. Within a minute or less (depending upon temp) you can push the throttle lever up and it idles on it's own. Again, that's part of each car's secret handshake. I let mine run with the spark fully up for about 2-3min for the fastest warm up too.
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05-01-2015, 11:52 AM | #18 | |
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Location: Connecticut
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Quote:
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05-01-2015, 01:25 PM | #19 |
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Location: Windy City
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Re: Starting a cold engine
Steps 10 and 17 are also good theft prevention!
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05-02-2015, 01:03 AM | #20 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
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Re: Starting a cold engine
The beater A my uncle pulled out of a grove and gave to me 55 years ago required an additional step about 3/4 of the time: Turn off ignition, place trans in high gear, get out of the car and rock it backwards to free jammed starter drive. The ring gear teeth were almost gone at the two spots where the engine always stopped. I learned to shut the engine off with the trans in gear, clutch down and foot on the brake, then let the clutch up just before the engine stopped. This usually left the ring gear in a position where there were good teeth so it wouldn't jam the next time.
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