horn rod mystery

[steve s]

PROBLEM HAS BEEN SOLVED --SEE POST #13 FOR EMBARRASSING DETAILS.


Well, it's been over ten years since I attempted any "upgrade" on my Ford ('29 Town Sedan), and once again I'm about to the point where I wish I'd left well enough alone but there's no turning back.

Installing an F-100 steering box, and getting the horn rod right is driving me nuts. Shortly before I began, the horn died. I determined that the horn was OK, but the horn button seemed to not be. I thought, "Great timing, I'm going to be pulling the column: I'll fix it then." BUT, when I removed the rod and continuity-tested it repeatedly it worked fine; no matter how I jiggled things, the horn button always grounded the contact down at the end of the rod. So, I figured the rod must have been almost-but-not-quite too short so it was making a marginal contact inside the light switch for the past 20 years, and finally gave out. Of course, when I reassembled the whole thing, the horn still didn't work, and now neither did the lights!

It turns out the rod was a tad too short for the spider thingy to even engage the light switch's switch part, and, similarly, the horn contact was not being made. The steering box provider suggested I try a non-repro light switch, and/or I cut a bit off the collar at the end of the steering column, so the switch could be snugged up closer. I did both. Using as stock, original switch made no difference; shortening the collar worked--the spider engages the switch, and I can feel a good springy pressure against the rod's horn contact. The light switch switches the lights correctly, but, alas, THE HORN STILL DOESN'T BLOW, plus, I now have the common problem of turning the steering wheel changing the light switch positions.

I think I can figure out what needs to be done with the steering wheel friction problem, what this is really a long-winded way of asking is,

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW IS IT POSSIBLE FOR THE HORN BUTTON TO WORK OUT OF THE CAR BUT NOT IN THE CAR, AND CAN IT BE FIXED, PREFERABLY WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN FROM THE CAR?

It turns out that one of the downsides of the F-100 unit is that the larger flange that attaches it to the frame does not permit the column to be simply loosened and tilted down a bit to facilitate horn rod removal without total removal of the box/column.
Thanks!

[Tacoma Bob]

MMM I too have the f-100. How many bolts do you have from box to frame? I removed my box last fall to have it inspected by randy Gross. HE DID NOT DO THE WORK ON MY BOX. Anyway I did have a deuce of a time installing my horn rod but it finally went in which does not answer your question. However, I too had issues with the light ring snagging on the wheel. My fix was to sand the inside of the wheel to gain some free movement. Took 30 minutes or so but did the trick.

[daveymc29]

There are more than one length of horn rod. Are you sure you have the correct one for the F100 box? If you didn't build the box yourself, ask the builder which rod it is built for. He should know if he's done many. You might contact Rand Gross for his best guess. Maybe able to measure it and order the correct one. That would be my first choice. Put it together on a bench before going into the frame might save some knuckles and a few bad words.

[quickchange]

There is a brass sleeve that slips on the rod before inserting into the steering shaft, This prevents the light rod from snagging on the shaft when turning the wheel turning the lights of & on , That's the top end sorted, Sounds like wrong light rod , Check with Randy, Winters is coming in NZ

[Growley bear]

Did you load test the circuit? A circuit can check out good when there is not a load present.

[steve s]

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Randy did my box, and he has been very friendly to deal with. He suggested the things I have already tried. I originally ordered a new horn rod from him, but returned it when mine tested ok. They were the same size.

I drilled a new hole in the frame so I could use all three attachment bolts that Randy included.

I did install a new brass sleeve on the rod.

I didn't load test the switch--darn it! I know better. However, there is no perceptible deflection of the ammeter when the horn button is pushed so it's acting like a completely open circuit rather than an insufficient current problem. Also, now that the rod is installed, it is failing the multimeter continuity test.

Makes no sense!

Thanks for the replies.

[Tacoma Bob]

MMMM Spider is OK? Perhaps the light switch or horn itself?

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Tacoma Bob

MMMM Spider is OK? Perhaps the light switch or horn itself?

The spider turns the lights on and off just fine, now that I circumcised the collar and snugged the switch in closer to the box.

The horn blows fine when I jumper wire around the switch.

[SeaSlugs]

Could it be a poor ground from rod to framerail due to excess paint everywhere?

[captndan]

The horn rod grounds at the steering wheel. That must be clean and tight. Many horn problems start there.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

Could it be a poor ground from rod to framerail due to excess paint everywhere?

Originally Posted by captndan

The horn rod grounds at the steering wheel. That must be clean and tight. Many horn problems start there.

Well, for a minute I thought this was it. But, it turns out that the horn rod is grounding but the spark and throttle levers aren't grounded--I wouldn't have believed it possible! SO, one has to not make assumptions when doing continuity testing, and this started me on a very helpful track--THANK YOU, GUYS! The horn button is in fact grounding the contact button at the end of the steering rod ok!!! The major mystery is solved.

But, the horn button still doesn't blow the horn, so it's gotta be a problem in light switch or wiring thereto. That's gotta be easier to track down than pulliing that darn steering gear box! Thanks, again.

[Tacoma Bob]

Originally Posted by steve s

Well, for a minute I thought this was it. But, it turns out that the horn rod is grounding but the spark and throttle levers aren't grounded--I wouldn't have believed it possible! SO, one has to not make assumptions when doing continuity testing, and this started me on a very helpful track--THANK YOU, GUYS! The horn button is in fact grounding the contact button at the end of the steering rod ok!!! The major mystery is solved.

But, the horn button still doesn't blow the horn, so it's gotta be a problem in light switch or wiring thereto. That's gotta be easier to track down than pulliing that darn steering gear box! Thanks, again.

Amen on not pullin the darn box. Sounds like your close Steve.

[steve s]

The problem has been solved. Now, the only question is, will my pride recover? How embarrassing!

One of the wires to the horn was broken right at the horn connection post--back out of sight, even when I was doing continuity and jumper connections by feel at that point.

Also, a blast of WD-40 seems to have solved the problem of the light switch lever sticking to the steering wheel.

Thanks for the comments and I apologize for wasting respondents' time.

Steve

[Tacoma Bob]

Originally Posted by steve s

The problem has been solved. Now, the only question is, will my pride recover? How embarrassing!

One of the wires to the horn was broken right at the horn connection post--back out of sight, even when I was doing continuity and jumper connections by feel at that point.

Also, a blast of WD-40 seems to have solved the problem of the light switch lever sticking to the steering wheel.

Thanks for the comments and I apologize for wasting respondents' time.

Steve

No need Steve. these are all hints for the next guy with issues. Wait for my follow up on my dogged F100 steering issues. What a saga. LMAO.