40 merc. Has a weeping water pump. Questions!

[LRS30]

Ok we got her home, and started making a list of things that need to be done to get her more reliable and road worthy. Well as it was idling in the driveway after an hour drive home without as much as a miss! It started to belch anti-freeze from the overflow tube. Before we left I noticed the left pump was weeping a bit. So I figured since its coming up on winter I figured why not start at the front and work our way to the back, so out comes the radiator, no it wasn't leaking but somebody installed corigated wire stiffened upper hoses, and well the wire had rusted and majority of the wires are resting on top of the cores inside the radiator, so off to the shop it goes for a quick inspection/test to fix anything that may need fixing. So we ordered new upper and lower hoses, now my next question is about the pumps! What pumps would you recommend? One company better than an other? And anything I should be concerned with during the removal and re-installation? This is my first go-round and don't wanna make any stupid mistakes... My next question is coolant, what is the proper mixture, and is there one that is better for these flatheads than another? Thanks again GURU's I warned ya I would have ALOT of questions...

[Joe Immler]

LRS Fire away with the questions! You will get a lot of help here.
I think most will agree that the best source for water pumps is Skip Haney
29436 Taralane Dr. Punta Gorda, Fl. 33982 Day 941 637 6698 [email protected]
You can either buy pumps with yours in exchange or have yours rebuilt. I won't post a price as it has been a few years since I have had work done. Go on the website. Also, while you are at it, I would have him rebuild your coil even if it is working OK now. You will never have a coil problem. Usually 3-4 day turn around.
Skip is a great guy to work with and does excellent work.
As to coolant, there are lot's of discussions on the site about this. Most seem to like Sierra. On this you will get many opinions so review them and make your own choice.

[G.M.]

Crud gets in the spring and seal and don't let the seal seat good. Try taking a larger screw and CAREFULLY pry the pulley forward and push it back, pry forward and push it back until it snaps back by it self. This will work on original pumps. The best thing to do if you need pumps is to have Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, Fl. rebuild your pumps, he makes them pump almost twice the water which cools the engine better. Don't break the pulley and flush the system before taking the pumps off. G.M.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Crud gets in the spring and seal and don't let the seal seat good. Try taking a larger screw and CAREFULLY pry the pulley forward and push it back, pry forward and push it back until it snaps back by it self. This will work on original pumps. The best thing to do if you need pumps is to have Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, Fl. rebuild your pumps, he makes them pump almost twice the water which cools the engine better. Don't break the pulley and flush the system before taking the pumps off. G.M.

+2 on the pumps. Walt

[LRS30]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Crud gets in the spring and seal and don't let the seal seat good. Try taking a larger screw and CAREFULLY pry the pulley forward and push it back, pry forward and push it back until it snaps back by it self. This will work on original pumps. The best thing to do if you need pumps is to have Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, Fl. rebuild your pumps, he makes them pump almost twice the water which cools the engine better. Don't break the pulley and flush the system before taking the pumps off. G.M.

I'm a little confused, what are you referring to when you say "DON'T BREAK THE PULLEY AND FLUSH THE SYSTEM BEFORE TAKING THE PUMPS OFF" withe the radiator and hoses off we took the hose and sprayed it down thru the inlets at the top of the heads, the pumps are still on the engine. I've heard nightmares of removing the big bolt that from what I hear penetrates into the water passage holds the pump on. Is there much truth to it, any precaustions I should take before removal. If I try the prying of the pulley and it snaps back and stops the weeping is it a good idea to still have them rebuilt? I am a OHV guy living in a flathead world and trying to not make costly mistakes.. I am also a maintenance manual freak, anybody know who might have one for the 40 mercury? Sorry of all the newb questions, I have used Search button I promise, but something's I am finding out are not as cut and dry as one would think.... Ryan

[harley]

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There is a bolt inside the pump you nee to remove. Reach inside the water inlet with a six point socket. It is hidden. Harley

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by LRS30

I'm a little confused, what are you referring to when you say "DON'T BREAK THE PULLEY AND FLUSH THE SYSTEM BEFORE TAKING THE PUMPS OFF" withe the radiator and hoses off we took the hose and sprayed it down thru the inlets at the top of the heads, the pumps are still on the engine. I've heard nightmares of removing the big bolt that from what I hear penetrates into the water passage holds the pump on. Is there much truth to it, any precaustions I should take before removal. If I try the prying of the pulley and it snaps back and stops the weeping is it a good idea to still have them rebuilt? I am a OHV guy living in a flathead world and trying to not make costly mistakes.. I am also a maintenance manual freak, anybody know who might have one for the 40 mercury? Sorry of all the newb questions, I have used Search button I promise, but something's I am finding out are not as cut and dry as one would think.... Ryan

Don't pry on the outer thin edge of the pulley, it will break. Run the engine with industrial detergent for an hour or more, dump the mixture and rinse several times with clean water. Can you feel the pulley move forward? In use the pulley moves back at low speed and the engine not running. Centrifical force throws it forward as the RPM's increase. In the forward position the seal and seal make a stronger contact. The bolts are very seldom a problem with a SIX point socket. Tap the socket in on the head with a hammer, this will drive it on the rust. G.M.

[4dFord/SC]

Originally Posted by LRS30

II am also a maintenance manual freak, anybody know who might have one for the 40 mercury?

Reprints of the 1940 Mercury Reference Book (i.e., owners manual) are readily available. Another good resource is an old Motors Auto Repair Manual; they can always be found on eBay.

[LRS30]

Thanks guys, greatly appreciated ! I am learning more and more every time I sign on here. I will look more closely at the pumps, thank you for the great explanation on the overal function. I do have some Motors Manuals in my possession and they have gotten me thru a lot of repairs in the past for sure. Thanks again guys for all the help!

[TomO]

The 39-48 Ford and Mercury Repair manual is in reprint and available from most vendors of V-8 Parts.