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Old 06-11-2013, 05:33 PM   #1
karsyn
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Default ignition problem

Ignition guru's, no spark to points. Changed condenser, coil, amp meter ok, key switch ok, wire's ok. timing ok, points new, checked cable, not sure. What is my next move. Thanks
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:26 PM   #2
Larry Seemann
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Default Re: ignition problem

If you're running a stock distributor check to make sure the "pigtail" wire from the bottom plate to the top plate isn't shorted. It's a common situation as there isn't much clearance.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:39 PM   #3
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: ignition problem

Checked with what?

Test lamp, multimerer, only saw sparks from wires when touched on ground?

Multimeter is best to check each & every electrical unswitched connection for voltage whereby the voltage at every unswitched connection should be the same reading of volts as when testing & touching (+) & (-) posts on battery.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #4
Willie Krash
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Default Re: ignition problem

I'll repost what I wrote on a thread like this yesterday,
"One of the first orders of business for me when its a 'no spark' issue is to put a test light on the dist side of the coil. Turn key on and crank the engine. The light should go on and off. If it stays on or doesn't come on, it will not fire. Work backwards from there.
You really need to know this first."

If the test light lights on the key side (b-) of the coil this is your next move, as written above.

Current flows thru' the coil to the points. When the points open the collapsing field produces the 15KV+ needed to fire the plugs. Make sure these conditions exist before replacing parts.
If you have a test light as an example lighting at the key side of the coil and will not go on or off on the dist side as the engine turns....The points or the dist wire could be grounded. Divide the problem and work backwards.

If the Key switch, amp gauge, etc needed to be replaced it could have been ascertained in a minute or two by making these checks. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:34 PM   #5
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: ignition problem

"Make sure these conditions exist before replacing parts."


Sshhhh..............I like to buy those good original coils cheap at swap meets!
I haven't bought a bad one yet.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:12 PM   #6
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Default Re: ignition problem

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Hope ya don't mind me piggybacking this thread, but I just tried to fire an old flathead 6 today for the first time. It's a rolling chassis, where the wires are there, but cut where they met the body. It's how I bought it. So I set a battery on the frame, and used jumper cables to go straight to ground (POS) and starter post (NEG). Cranked over ok, with all plugs removed (noticed #2 cylinder had a valve stuck open), but had no spark. Everything from the coil to dizzy to each plug is still hooked up. I used a jumper wire to go from the key side of the coil to the same starter post. I got no spark. There's no ignition switch, no regulator, etc... the points do open and close (I think), the little springs look rusted on the plate.
Following what I read here, I moved the ground cable closer to the coil, so I could clamp the test light clip within reach, I then hooked the NEG cable to the starter (automatically engaging it), and started checking the coil. I got steady lights on both sides of the coil. So from that, it's safe to assume the problem is in the dizzy? Without the plugs, there's no compression, so the engine spins faster, but it should have still shuttered on and off if the dizzy was good, right?
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Last edited by havi; 06-13-2013 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:26 PM   #7
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: ignition problem

This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,

No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:27 PM   #8
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: ignition problem

What kind of chassis is it?

The test light should light up on the coil primary if you jumped from the battery to the primary terminal. The other primary terminal should go to the distributor, and it should also light the test light any time the points are open, and the test light should go out any time the points close.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #9
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Default Re: ignition problem

1948 Tudor sedan. Light stays on from both terminals. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to recheck the points. Maybe they're stuck open.

Thanks Mike for checklist.

I just noticed I'm in the Model A forum, sorry about that.
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Last edited by havi; 06-13-2013 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:05 PM   #10
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: ignition problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by havi View Post
1948 Tudor sedan. Light stays on from both terminals. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to recheck the points. Maybe they're stuck open.

Thanks Mike for checklist.

I just noticed I'm in the Model A forum, sorry about that.
They might only need a cleaning with fine sandpaper or a points file.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:09 PM   #11
havi
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Default Re: ignition problem

OK, thanks. Hopefully that's all it is. I did hit it real quick with a points file before cranking it, but didn't really look that closely. This thing sat outside for a few years before I got it, and I at least had it covered over the Winter. But MN being MN, everything seems to rust from the inside out, lol. Inside the dizzy seems no different.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:15 AM   #12
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: ignition problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by havi View Post
I just noticed I'm in the Model A forum, sorry about that.
Not a big problem as the troubleshooting for ignition is the same.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:28 AM   #13
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Default Re: ignition problem

Try this infallable check through http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...20Shooting.pdf
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