Bolt finishes

[Heard]

I'm in the process of restoring my '35 pickup. This will NOT be a concours resto, but I'm interested in what you guys use to refurb nuts and bolts. I don't want to put a bunch of rusty stuff back on the truck but I also don't want to put a bunch of shiny stuff on there that looks out of place.

I know there are kits you can buy from places like Caswell, and I would like to hear from anyone that has used any of those. But I would also like to hear from anyone that has a home brew remedy.

Thanks!

[Angledrive]

You'll get a kick out of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGT20ghWMZA

[mrtexas]

I use both Ospho and Rust911 to remove rust. Rust911 doesn't leave any residue, Ospho does. Then paint black.

[JSeery]

I like a bluing/black type, hot oil finish.

[paul2748]

After cleaning them off with my wire wheel, I paint them with clear paint.

[woodiewagon46]

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The Ford designation for the bolt finish was S-2, which was almost like a flat black. I have heard of guys using "Gun Black" the compound used for restoring gun barrels. Fordbolts.com has the kit for your car.

[Alan O'Connell]

www.fordbolts.com Roy Nacewicz. I have restored a 35 Cabriolet and I'm in the process of restoring a 36 Club Cabriolet. I have gotten all of my hardware from him. You will get the correct bolts, nuts, etc. from Roy.

[35fordtn]

I agree on Roy Nacewicz. His stuff is top notch and correct. Additionally it saves time, when restoring a car due to the convenience. Instead of bagging and marking where every bolt went you simply use his kits

[peewee2you]

I agree with Paul, I have a 47 4dr Ford, and currently restoring a 61 vw convertible, and have literally, wire wheeled every nut, bolt, washer using this method, along with a dremel for those tight spots. Doing so one needs to be very careful wearing safety glasses and small pieces of wire flying off of the wheel overtime of use, especailly the dremel wire ones. I use a pointed type of vice-grip/lock pliers to help keeping fingers and hands distant from wheel. Use a bench grinder type with stone wheel on one side and wire on the other that utilizes the guard shields that adjust up and down as an aid to keep flying debree free from you as well. The wheel as u know because of it's high speed rpm's can catch an item at times and pull it down or away from you. Bottom line is be safe, but have done this on two vehicles and have manage re-using original bolts, nuts, and washers that have sat on these cars some 20+yrs of dirt, grime and rust. I have also clear coated the heads of the bolts just as an aid moving forward as to not rapidly rust overtime again, I don't shoot glossy clear on them so they somewhat hold their original look. I have seen your work in the past and know that you know what you are doing, so cheers to you...

[FlatheadTed]

Does Roy do a correct floor bolt ? from what I have seen available they look like plain carriage bolts not like Fords bull head ,bolts Ted

[Heard]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I like a bluing/black type, hot oil finish.

JSeery, could you elaborate on this a bit. Thanks!

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Heard

JSeery, could you elaborate on this a bit. Thanks!

Yes, but I need to look it up it's been a while. I will post some information. The end process it to place the bolts in hot oil. Variations in the process gives you from gray to black finishes.

This is rough from my notes (this is not original with me!!).

Heat water (I use distilled water) to between 190 and 200 degrees in a stainless steel pot, then add Manganese Phosphating Concentrate. Do not mix first and then heat, add the concentrate to the hot water.

Manganese Phospating Concentrate can be found at Palmetto Enterprises (www.palmettoenterprises.net). Palmetto offers it in five gallon buckets, quart and pint sizes. Mix it in a ratio of 14 ounces concentrate to 128 ounces (one gallon) water. This activates the phosphating chemical reaction.

Zinc Phosphate can also be used, but Manganese seems to work a little better to get a darker gray appearance. There are also other items that can be added to the mixture to darken the color. The Manganese phosphating process will turn parts to a dark gray finish.

Parts need to be clean, grease and oil interfere with the phosphating process. Remove grease and oils with an alkaline cleaner, which includes Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. Also need to remove rust, etc. You can also glass bead/bead blasting parts. Etching the metal allows the phosphate to chemically bond. Different acids can be used to remove rust and condition the metal, but you need to take it easy as they also remove metal for the parts.

Don't touch the parts with bare hands or use cleaners after sandblasting as this will leave a residue and create a spotty or streaky finish.

Submerge each part in the mixture using rubber gloves or stainless steel or rubber-coated tongs. A rubber-coated magnet can be used for submerging and retrieving smaller parts.
Once submerged, bubbles begin to form on the metal and rise in the mixture, similar to dropping an Alka-Seltzer tablet into a glass of water. This fizzing action is phosphating the metal. It is a good idea to rotate the parts every few minutes to get an even coating.
Leave the parts in the bath for 8 to 10 minutes total, even though the fizzing has stopped. This promotes a slightly darker finish.

When removed rise the parts well in water, then dried with compressed air.

You can spray parts with WD40 application immediately after the phosphate bath. Wipe dry and repeat this step three times to ensure all mineral salts are removed. I think a better method is to dip the parts in heated motor oil, SAE 30 straight.

[JSeery]

Here is some internet information, there are several verifications on this process:

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...2C&FORM=VRDGAR

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...=0&FORM=VDQVAP

[Russ/40]

I have used a product from Eastwood that is a tin/zinc plating process that is very friendly. The resulting finish looks like white cad plating, if you skip the polishing step.

[Heard]

Thanks a lot fellas. That'll get me going in the right direction.

[Bruce_MO]

Eastwood also has a black oxide solution that works well if the parts are really clean and not pitted. It's really easy to use. Kinda' pricy, though, as most Eastwood stuff is.

[fordor41]

I heat the bolt head hot, plunge it in oil, wipe off but leave a light coating of oil. I use this method only on non-structural bolts

[AKCJ]

The ThreadWizard works pretty good to clean the threads. Just use a battery drill to power the bolt in and out. Sometimes you can make an existing (installed) bolt head look decent by just putting black POR15 on it with a small paintbrush.

[john in illinois]

I have had good results with instant gun blue on small parts. I bead blast or wire brush,rinse in a plastic cup with laquer thinner and put in a cup with blueing solution. You only need a thin layer of liquid. You can roll the parts to coat them so a bottle lasts a long time. Rinse with water.



http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...072.aspx?dym=y

John