torque con. and flex plate

[Alaska Jim]

much better picture than mine. my ony reason for posting it was because I had never seen one like it. I am not going to be using it. I have a flat-o-matic kit in my car that adapts the Y-Block to a C-4

[Dobie Gillis]

"How can I tell for sure if they have been previously milled or not and how much? is there any type of indicator to measure from?"

On the spark plug side of the heads are 2 square and 2 oblong pads. If the heads have never been milled they will measure exactly 1" high. A tape measure will give a rough idea but really isn't accurate enough for this, best to use a machinist's ruler or calipers.

[Alaska Jim]

Thanks Dobie, good to know I will ck them when I get the heads off. does this apply to all Y-block heads?

[Dobie Gillis]

As far as I know it does. The basic mold was the same for all of 'em.

[bfdinardo]

Reviving an old thread regarding flex plates! I've removed the old thick heavy rivet flex plate per some of the recommendations here in favor of the new stamped one shown in the picture below. Can anyone offer some advice on which way it should be installed? I'm not sure on 4 things.

1. which direction the plate should face either relative to the engine (first or second picture?)
2. what the 3 spacers are for and how many to use? (are they to compensate for length of the 6 bolts to the crank?)
3. original plate was held on to the ring gear fly wheel by the 6 bolts and rivet wings (3 on each side 180 deg from each other) but this one looks like 4 bolts at 90 degrees from each other. so i should use the center holes from the original wings location at 3 oclock and 9 oclock and then use the existing nuts for 12 and 6 oclocks on the ring gear fly wheel? (3rd picture)
4. Are the 2 smaller bolts at 12 and 6 oclock on the fly wheel slightly closer to the center the drain bolts for the torque converter?


Thank you so much in advance for your help!

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by bfdinardo

Reviving an old thread regarding flex plates!

I've removed the old thick heavy rivet flex plate per some of the recommendations here in favor of the new stamped one shown in the picture below.

Can anyone offer some advice on which way it should be installed?

Is there an original thread describing your situation and model?

[bfdinardo]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Is there an original thread describing your situation and model?

Not to my knowledge. Maybe I should start a new thread.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by bfdinardo

Maybe I should start a new thread.

Please as we have no idea of what you are working on and what vehicle type you have.

[paul2748]

I am not sure, but one reason they may have gone to the posted heads was because of the supercharged "F" engines. Non posted heads can be modified with posts.


For most usages, the un-posted heads are fine and had no inherent problems. In high performance modification situations the posted heads are better to use.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

I am not sure, but one reason they may have gone to the posted heads was because of the supercharged "F" engines. Non posted heads can be modified with posts.

For most usages, the un-posted heads are fine and had no inherent problems. In high performance modification situations the posted heads are better to use.

FORD went to posted heads in MAY 1957 as they were having failures both on the street and track. I guess the E and F CODES put a stress on them.

What you very rarely find being discussed is the steam hammering in the head causing the deck to lift due to steam pockets being formed in the coolant jacket between the center cylinders as FORD (and CHEV) put two exhaust valves next to one another.