My model A wont go faster than 40-45

[Patrick L.]

How does the car act at 45 ? Any bucking or backfiring, etc ?

[Bob Bidonde]

Try this:

[burner31]

Have you tried a steeper hill?

[mike657894]

I've had similar issues. Are you useing e10 fuel? I get a 30% power drop after warm up with e10. I think it boils in the hot carb. Get a nurex wrench or get good at test light timing. check compression. run your car for a while let it idle does it run worse over time or stall out after 30min and not want to restart. if so check plugs for water wet from bad head gasket. check for flow. bad flow should allow you to run dry in 2nd gear. ride in second and see if it will rev up to max rpm or does it get close then sputter and pop and bog. GPs the speed to get the exact number you are going. I had gps 45 with a bad head gasket and leaking intake. I now gps 55 and some more work to do.

[Humperhill]

Before you start fooling with carb, you should make sure the timing is correct.

[40 Deluxe]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Humperhill

Before you start fooling with carb, you should make sure the timing is correct.

Your timing is set by that there lever on the left side of the steering column. Push it too far up, and engine temperature rises while power drops. Pull it too far down, and power drops while the engine pings and begins to self-destruct. Timing is all in the driver's hands!
All that fiddling with the timing pin, distributor cam, test lights, etc. merely sets the initial timing at TDC or slightly after, so the engine doesn't kick back if hand cranking it. As soon as the engines starts and you pull the spark lever down (even a bit) that carefully done initial setting is gone!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Your timing is set by that there lever on the left side of the steering column. Push it too far up, and engine temperature rises while power drops. Pull it too far down, and power drops while the engine pings and begins to self-destruct. Timing is all in the driver's hands!
All that fiddling with the timing pin, distributor cam, test lights, etc. merely sets the initial timing at TDC or slightly after, so the engine doesn't kick back if hand cranking it. As soon as the engines starts and you pull the spark lever down (even a bit) that carefully done initial setting is gone!

X2, I agree.


Though setting the timing Henry's way along with all of the other maintenance things (cleaning plugs, right range plugs, carb in good shape with flow tested jets, rotor gapped, points clean and gapped, etc., etc.) incrementally add up to a well running car. Sometimes being fussy has its rewards. The car will run without doing all the fussy things, but may be hard to start, not idle well, poor gas mileage - basically not run perfectly.


This has been my experience being relatively newer to the hobby with my truck. Others with poor running As have asked me what I've done, and the above info is my answer.

[chrs1961815]

Although fuel has been discussed, nobody has mentioned making sure that all of the screens in the various fuel filters (in the tank, in the sediment bowl, in the carb) are clean.

[DHZIEMAN]

Mine will do about 48, but my concern is stopping the darn thing!

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by DHZIEMAN

Mine will do about 48, but my concern is stopping the darn thing!

Sometimes slack in the brake rod adjustment will cause the brakes to be poor . There is more to brake adjustment than tightening the adjustment wedges .

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by DHZIEMAN

Mine will do about 48, but my concern is stopping the darn thing!

Yours will only go 48 ? There is something wrong. They should cruise nicely at that speed, but, should go faster than that.

I understand your concern about the brakes. These brakes are pretty good when set up right but don't stop like a newer vehicle at the higher speeds.

[Purdy Swoft]

Timing is probably the reason that the car won't go any faster than 45 MPH . I first check and adjust the points with a gap of 20 to 22 thousands . When the timing pin drops in place , adjust the distributor cam so that the TRAILING edge of the rotor tip points exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap body with NO clockwise backlash-rotational movement in the clockwise direction after the cam screw is tightened . Initial timing is very important . . Backlash in the distributor usually causes the timing to be too retarded . I feel that if you can make these exact adjustments you will be surprised at the power and speed your model A will have .

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Sometimes slack in the brake rod adjustment will cause the brakes to be poor . There is more to brake adjustment than tightening the adjustment wedges .

Yup! Currently, front drums are off and being replaced, Also brakes shoes are some kind of lubrication soaked. Have front replacement parts and am awaiting cooler weather as garage is just too hot to deal with for me at my age. Anyway, you are right, lots of stuff to make sure of with mechanical brakes and proper adjustment. It will all come together when the temps cool a bit.

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Yours will only go 48 ? There is something wrong. They should cruise nicely at that speed, but, should go faster than that.

I understand your concern about the brakes. These brakes are pretty good when set up right but don't stop like a newer vehicle at the higher speeds.

As I mentioned in another post on this thread, front brakes are in work. Once that is done, will get into timing and carb stuff. Timing on these old rascals done right is not just like tossing on a computer and making some light come on saying all is well. After the brakes, gonna get into timing. I feel pretty sure it is off a bit.

And if I can get the brakes to stop it better, it sure will get me more interested to work at increasing top end speed.

[ryanheacox]

I know you said the engine was rebuilt but if retiming, points adjustment, checking throttle linkage etc. still won't get more speed out of her I'd say check compression.


Ford advertised a top speed of 65 and I think you should be able to at least get close.

[big job]

No ignition timing will correct a cam gear off a tooth, there has been a lot of talk about
'mis' stamped (the dot) repros across the pond gears. Last cam gear I bought has 4
dots ??? whats that a guessing game, pick a dot and hope its a good dot. I'm just
saying it happen'd to me not to mention 4 failed V8 guides within 500 miles on a fresh
59A and we pay them with genuine green backs & we get total melted rice burner junk...

[lildave]

Dwell, how are the points? If the spring is worn the timing becomes erratic at higher rpms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Railcarmover]

all kinds of potential reasons you car will only go 40 to 45 mph.There are sure fire ways to increase speed,but it costs money...how fast do you want to go?

cheap-fast-reliable..you can only pick two.