Monday bench blow up .....came in today to this ei today n

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Came in today to this , bench was clean when i left yesterday i thought , this customer wanted two early 40Bs and two late 68-11a s etc . Order was dated 8-31-2019 said he wasnt in a hurry !! Thanks for yer patience !!! will get em done this week .......

[petehoovie]

[QUOTE=BUBBAS IGNITION;1880117]Came in today to this , bench was clean when i left yesterday i thought ....

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

GETTING THEM DONE TWO STRAP POINTS , DONE TESTED GOOD !!!!

[35fordtn]

Jim,
Those appear to be new reproduction points??
If, so I'm curious as I tend to cuss and throw all the 32/36 reproductions in the trash can

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Jim,
Those appear to be new reproduction points??
If, so I'm curious as I tend to cuss and throw all the 32/36 reproductions in the trash can

Beats me i dont use a bunch but have a carton of new good looking new points both sets worked really well on tester so i guess they are ok.... never know without a spin up ...

[Lawrie]

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I got a few sets of the old style points in boxes from all places the dump shop.
Lawrie

[35fordtn]

Jim,
My issue with the "NEW" 32-36 points is that the gap winds up being .005-.008 after the dwell is set..

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Jim,
My issue with the "NEW" 32-36 points is that the gap winds up being .005-.008 after the dwell is set..

I dont folow that , dwell is dwell and it takes dwell to make them run .. I will check the gaps on the two i just did , dwell is perfect on both with a good output etc .......

[35fordtn]

Jim,
As in once I set the dwell properly on the repro points, the gap is very very minimal, and as we both know anything less that .008” is really pushing it since the gap closes as the points wear.

I do understand dwell is dwell, and gap doesn’t matter, but to me it does matter if it is less than .008” or so.....

I use and I’m sure what you are using as well, older NORS Points.


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[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Jim,
As in once I set the dwell properly on the repro points, the gap is very very minimal, and as we both know anything less that .008” is really pushing it since the gap closes as the points wear.

I do understand dwell is dwell, and gap doesn’t matter, but to me it does matter if it is less than .008” or so.....

I use and I’m sure what you are using as well, older NORS Points.


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Well now ya done and give me another assignment . You using 27deg on drivers side with pass side blocked off and 36 total with both sets using the final adjustment on the pass side right .....
thats a starting point ....

[35fordtn]

I use 25 driver and 34 total, so that when they wear in the will be around 35ish... don’t think our degree or so if difference would matter any in a real world.
I’ll send you a set of repro’s sometime soon so you can see what I mean.


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[PeteVS]

I think that you have a smudge on your lens. There's a patch of fuzziness on some of your pictures.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

I think that you have a smudge on your lens. There's a patch of fuzziness on some of your pictures.

Yep i noticed that after i done it , takes some time to post some of this stuff and i was in a hurry like usual. Thanks for the comment ......

[Frank Miller]

Here's a wild ass guess. Dwell is dwell but if the contacts are poor the machine may not be seeing the points closed for a millisecond or two so you're missing some soak time for the coil. I'd try dressing those new points and see what happens.

[Hoop]

Frank, good first step. Who knows what materials were used to make repro points.

Gap is very important especially in the LH (left hand) points since it determines initial advance. Specific attention must be paid to setting the advance ... most Sun and Allen machines are not modified to indicate initial advance.

I bet Michael has fiddled with those repro points ... and look forward to his comments ... as well as Bubba's findings.

[35fordtn]

This issue with the repro points is the pivot hole is off. The point material is good, and they will set up on a machine but you’ll be left with nearly no gap when done.

I have a question that Bubba can answer. Jim, with say .004-.006 gap or any lower than normal number, would that require a condenser with more capacity due to the higher amount of arcing across the points?

Again dwell is dwell and gap doesn’t in theory matter, but maybe it could if the gap was way too small.


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[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Here's a wild ass guess. Dwell is dwell but if the contacts are poor the machine may not be seeing the points closed for a millisecond or two so you're missing some soak time for the coil. I'd try dressing those new points and see what happens.

I burnish all new contacts on a plastic burnishing wheel to a high gloss before installing. I have installed some new old stock stuff that just woudnt run so i make sure they are looking good before using them .........
Example being a nos Mallory been laying on a shelf for 30-40 years , points are green just from air oxidation. Dont need new points just need contact surfaces burnished and cleaned off ...........

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

This issue with the repro points is the pivot hole is off. The point material is good, and they will set up on a machine but you’ll be left with nearly no gap when done.

I have a question that Bubba can answer. Jim, with say .004-.006 gap or any lower than normal number, would that require a condenser with more capacity due to the higher amount of arcing across the points?

Again dwell is dwell and gap doesn’t in theory matter, but maybe it could if the gap was way too small.


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Point gap isnt the issue here. With the condensor , the condensor is rated with the inductance ( winding) of the ignition coil and the coils design should be correct ...
Here the Ford specs for condensors ...
With point gap and dwell (ford didnt suggest using point gap) the drivers side point set controls ignition timing and the pass side controls total dwell.......

[35fordtn]

Jim

So, out of curiousity, would you run a set that the gap is .006-.008 after setting dwell?

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

A little more discussion regarding point gap etc.
Came in today and had two helmets on the desk getting ready to ship and two more on the bench .
The two finished distributors are machine tested and adjusted with dwell meter running approx 1000 rpm. The drivers side is adjusted per the ford bible at 27 degrees wit the pass side blocked off , then the total is set with the block removed to a total of 36 degrees , Unit is ran on machine for a few minutes and properly lubed .
I then this morning checked the point gap on both units with a feeler gausge . All four were pretty exact at .016 with feeler gauge . A pretty much perfect world so far , will check the other two this after noon ........

I get this call from time to time :

Jim ,i got your distributor in the mail yesterday and my friend and i were looking at it . Looks really really great but LOOKS like the point gap is incorrect ???

ME: Did your friend tell ya that ???? AND does he drive a chevrolet hot rod ???

Yes he does have a chevrolet !
Good tell your friend to get in his chevy and go home , then install hte distributor and drive it !!!!

If ya havent seen my troubleshooting tips video , ya need to :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaonGUjf8YY

I developed this with mechanics looks and feels .....reb