Trying to rewire ‘35 horn

[AnthonyG]

Hey guys, I got 2 horns w my ‘35. A newer silver one looks like AM one has been messed with, cut wires on coil & I’m trying to get to work. The coil is working as I’ve tested & actuates one 1/2 cycle when putting 12v 10amp across end wired of coil. Doesn’t seem to have the activation point device the old original has. Looks like a different design. Anyone recognize the newer one and knows if parts missing & how to wire? Black one is original & working the silver is the one messed with.

[AnthonyG]

Wow, no Reply’s? Any help appreciated!

[cas3]

i guess folks just dont have anything to toot about (yuc yuc) wheres our electrical specialists !

[nelsb01]

The horn in the first picture looks like the internals of the only one that a mid 30s Ford used.
If the original one works, a standard or commercial vehicle only had one horn.

[AnthonyG]

Mine originally came w two, these two as seen on it when I 1st got. New wiring harness provided for two I believe silver replacement is after market. If I could see one like it that’s working to understand what’s missing & see wiring I can rebuild. There’s a part # on it but I can’t match it?

[Tinker]

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So you didn't get the motor to turn at all? Isn't the coil to increase voltage? Bad or broken windings or dirty contacts in the motor? Where is a small growler when you need it.

[AnthonyG]

Hard to see in the pics but when I disassemble I discovered the wire coming off the wound coil were cut on top & bottom. I connected current + on top cut wire - on lower cut wire. The coil actuates 1 stroke in one direction. I believe what tinker is calling a motor is a plunger assy that is supposed to slide back & forth as the coil is actuated by the point assy that I believe is the missing link? I think some how the cut wires should go to that missing point setup then to the terminal block seen with no wires in the pics. I think the point set up visible on the black original one opens & closes the points rapidly causing the stokes that works the diaphragm. Thought someone might recognize the aftermarket silver one or the number on it to identify it. No mfgr. Name on it.

[Tinker]

Well yes it is a motor. whether it turns or pumps... My experience is (yes) 38 they turn.


LRAs - Linear Resonant Actuators

https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com...aracteristics/







So nothing?


So what are the wrapped electrical tubes if not a voltage coil? old resistance diodes? Where are the points? I see nothing to break the points. Just contact point plates.



.

[flatheadmurre]

The Papercoated component is either a resistor or a capacitor...both have been used...they are there to extend points life.

Motor to me is ahooga horn...the later ones are a solenoid moving a metal membrane same function as a speaker

It´s really difficult to do something like this on distance...

[Terry,OH]

Looks like someone stripped some of the internal parts in the G22283 replacement horn. The original has a solenoid coil, adjustable contacts and a capacitor. Without power on the horn the contacts are closed. As the solenoid energizes and moves it opens the contacts and the solenoid drops out. at which time the contacts again close and the cycle is repeated over and over. The capacitor is there to eliminate arcing across the contacts. Suggest you replace the horn with the missing parts. Get another original as in your first photo.

[deuce lover]

I agree with Terry,replace it(the silver one).The V8 Ford Foundation has an original one listed on EBAY for $60 buy it now.Here is the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-19...UAAOSwJppdTvCQ

[Juergen]

I don't know how to add pictures but most of what you need is missing. The one I have uses a wound wire as a coil in place of a capacitor. I found these on single wire trumpet horns. If you want to wire these as originals, suggest you find a two wire pre 1938 horn.

[AnthonyG]

If I have to I’ll buy another original but seems I should be able to get/order the parts on the aftermarket one. I don’t need the housing or the Horn she’ll as I have the originals. With the pn# as seen for the assy & the Mfgr thinking I could order parts, w/o the Mfgr no go. Anyone recognize the after market unit & know the Mfgr?

[deuce lover]

I have never seen another like it.Sometimes you have to buy the whole thing and sell off what you don't need.That mfg be long gone and or those parts. There are at least a few others listed on EBAY from $20 on up but no indication that they work.

[rotorwrench]

These horns were electric vibrators types. Motor driven horns were the Klaxon type. The vibrator type are simple in the fact that all they have is a vibrator coil, inner armature to make the movement of the diaphragm, and a set of points to get them to vibrate.

The one that looks to be plated has no points to make & break the magnetic field that causes the vibration of the diaphragm.

This is a basic diagram cut away for a vibrator type horn. They all pretty much work the same way. They are adjusted for the amount of current draw to be within specs. A little adjustment one way or the other makes a big difference in the amount of current drawn
http://navyaviation.tpub.com/14329/F...-Horn-311.html

THis one is of a more modern unit but they still function the same way.
http://www.denso.co.id/horn.html

[Terry,OH]

If your 35 vehicle is a car you want the Sparton CL-6 horn. The two horns on the Deluxe car are two slightly different tones. I believe this is done with two slightly different thickness diaphragms as well as different size resonators (cup shaped thick washer under the diaphragm. The ebay auction mentioned in the posting above is for a Schwarze M-68 horn.

[Dave Slater]

Don't know if this is going to be any help but the capacitor in the horn is usually gone to the open state. Either way it's an item that will need to be replaced regardless. By memory they are a .2 mfd 250 wdv that you can purchase at someplace like Radio Shack if there are any still around. By adjusting the points will vary the sound to a small degree. Dave

[rotorwrench]

Condenser style caps were available a few years ago from Echlin at NAPA but it's hard to say now days. I would look for an original type as Terry,OH mentioned. Reproductions are not very well made but might get a person by until something better comes along. The coils can be rewound and the other parts can be fabricated if you know where to source the right materials. Adjustment to the air gap is usually not necessary but point adjustment is made using an amp gauge in the line. 8 amps was common for a lot of horns in that era.

These old horns are ground function types since horn relay technology wasn't there yet. They generally had power to one side all the time. The grounding side of the vibrator coil was connected to the horn button switch. A person can rework a stripped vibrator frame from a more modern horn to fit the old housing but is would have to be a 6-volt horn and it would have to be set up for grounding if it was from a later car with a relay system.

[Tinker]

Great info roto. Think I learned something. Thank you.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Motor to me is ahooga horn...

An old t klaxon3 I use to scare off geese over the summer when they poop on the shoreline. They get used to it pretty quick. but it works for a bit