1949 8BA with 1946ish style Offenhauser cylinder heads overheating

[RandyMettler]

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[RandyMettler]

Hello Ol' Ron

You a legend on Ford Barn

I Value your advice. The head gaskets that came off the motor were designed for the heads not the block following your advice, so that is what I will replace them with. The previous owner opened up some of the holes in the gaskets I removed. I have heard both sides of the equation. If one believes opening up the flow increases cooling than why not open up the gaskets and heads to match the openings ford designed in the block. If one believes restricting the coolant flow between components increases cooling than leave the restricted passages in the head gasket alone. This is fascinating to me. Any input is welcome. Although it is hard to argue with Ronnie roadster who favors increasing coolant flow. He built a 200+ mile an hour Bonville flathead without over heating. To top it off it started on its own power. Most Bonneville ride are push to operating speeds. Man would I loved to take that car for a ride!

[19Fordy]

Here's an 239 cu. in. 8BA with early style heads that were made by MCF in 1999. Water pumps are 8RT truck rebuilt with spiral impellers.The heads were deliberately designed not to use thermostats. Stock early copper head gaskets are used. Fan is 16 in.mechanical.
Radiator is a Walker. Are you sure your radiator is cooling properly? With engine warmed up take temp readings at the top and bottom of radiator. On mine there's a 10 to 20 degree difference depending on ambient temperature.

[tubman]

Boy, that engine jumps right out and hits you right in the eye.

[Ol' Ron]

In the early pre 49 blocks the holes in the block deck are there for core support during casting the block, as well as the water flow. The 8bA style block has most holes placed for cooling. However in the case of some rear block holes it was found that blocking some improved cooling. Yes hi flow does improve coolin, just like more oil through the bearings keeps them cooler.

[rotorwrench]

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The coolant doesn't flow real fast through the block anyway. Those restrictor holes in the gasket just redirect the flow. If you open them up, it just plain won't flow as well to the back of the block. Ford used coolant exits in the middle of the cylinder head of the older engines for a reason but they still didn't get quite enough flow to the back of the block. When they put them at the front on the 8BA they knew the flow was going to have to be modified to get an even amount of coolant throughout the engine block otherwise it will all go in the front and out the front with little flow to the back. This is just fluid flow dynamics.

[RandyMettler]

19Fordy, wicked engine!



I decided to reinstall the heads without modifying the head gaskets. I can always do that as a last resort.


I did temp readings with an interfered gun and the cooling on all cylinders front to back seems to be even. The odd thing is the passenger side of the block is running roughly 20 degrees warmer than the driver side. An again, all cylinders on passenger side running even, but 20 degrees hotter than the driver side.


The water pump on the passenger side seemed smooth and tight when I had it off, just like the driver side pump.


I noticed a slight tapping on cylinder 4. I located the tapping with a long screwdriver on the head near #4s plug. I don't believe I had the tapping before adjusting the tappet gap for the valves. Could the newly adjusted tappet valve gap be causing overheating and hard starting?



It starts cold, but is very hard to start once it starts to warm up. This time the hard starting is even at temperatures as low as 150, so not vapor lock/boiling fuel in the bowl. I bench tested my coil and according to my numbers the manufacture tech said it was on its way out. Although he had to verify with his supervisor. Could a lazy coil cause hard starting and overheating?


Regards

[flatjack9]

How did you test the coil? I doubt your tech knows what he is talking about.

[RandyMettler]

flatjack9 "How did you test the coil? I doubt your tech knows what he is talking about."



I have a MSD coil. I tested the primary and secondary coil ohm readings using a multi meter. I tested against the negative and positive poles and against the terminal the coil wire plugs into and both the negative and positive wires. Three readings total. My primary reading was .7 ohms. Factory specs are listed at .8 ohms. My secondary readings were 3.26 ohms. Both secondary readings should be the same and were. Factory specs are listed at 4.70 ohms. The MSD tech did not know what these numbers indicated until he spent 10 minutes on hold with his supervisor. He got back on the line with me and told me my coil was weak. I am still not too confident in his help. I sensed in his voice that he was not sure that his response to my question was accurate but was just trying to spit out what he could remember his supervisor telling him. I could have asked him why and I would have been place on hold for another 10 minutes but opted not to do so.

[RandyMettler]

Ol' Ron, Not that it matters, but I was born and raised in Westford Vermont. Ive been gone from there too long. I was raised in a house where the nearest paved road was 4 miles away and to this day still is. Now I live in a place where the nearest dirt road is much more than 4 miles away. I miss long dirt roads where the tree canopies join from both sides and are so thick they block out the sky. Growing up, it was just another drive into town. Now, it would be a drive I would try and remember. I don't know how long or why you have decided to live in Vermont but hope you appreciate where you are. Its a special place.

[Ol' Ron]

I like to run my engines at 180/200 Degs, now as for the timing, running retarded will cause over heating. Gota check the advance in the dist.