8BA Truck Motor - Oil

[Mike A Model]

Recently I acquired a 1930 Roadster, that has been stored for some time, with an 8BA truck motor. As I go through the process of sorting thru the different systems. Two questions, I would like to ask concerning the general maintenance:

1. What oil would be recommended? I drained the oil and opened the oil pan inspection cover; the pan was very clean with no sludge buildup.

2. Being a truck motor how many quarts of oil? Currently, the engine does not have an oil filter.

Thank you for your help,
Mike

[alanwoodieman]

most trucks have a 5 quart capacity plus one for an oil filter. I have several 8ba engines and I run 20w50 kendall oil in all of my flatheads . if you decide to put an oil filter back on be sure you have the 030 restrictor or you will have very low oil pressure. pm me if you want the oil filter can

[19Fordy]

I use 20W50 in my 8BA.

[earlyride]

I'm running Lucas 10-30, has high zinc content

[alanwoodieman]

20w50 Kendal is their racing/high performance oil and it has zinc

[Ol' Ron]

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I think 10-30 would be the correct weight oil with stock bearing clearing clearances. Oil Pressure should be 10/15 lbs at idle and 40/50 at cruise. The reason is the lighter oil cools the bearing better than the heavier oils. However, the heavy oils make the driver and oil pressure gauge happier. Now the factory made industrial engines, that had a tag fitted to the block that stated the bearing clearance. Yes an old engine might need a heavier oil

[tubman]

Whatever is on sale at the Dollar General that has an API seal on it.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

Whatever is on sale at the Dollar General that has an API seal on it.

I agree with this for a used motor. Remember, when this motor was new, they sold "recycled" oil. Any modern oil would seem like Champagne to this engine.

[51504bat]

Before I rebuilt the 8ba in my '39 p/u I ran straight weight but after the rebuild I now run 20-50. Some people run diesel multi weight also. Its kind of up to you.

[flatheadmurre]

15-40 dieseloil...nothing fancy

[B-O-B]

using castrol 20-50 oil & if it is available 20-50 racing oil in my flat heads. One fresh 24 stud rebuild & one 21 stud pretty new rebuild & one 350 G M engine with plenty of miles on it,

[Ol' Ron]

20/50 on a rebuild?????

[jetmek]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

20/50 on a rebuild?????

Lotsa bad advice out there

[alanwoodieman]

run 10w30 for first 100 miles or engine stand run and then change to 20w50

[FortyNiner]

For the great unwashed (that clearly includes me) a reference such as this is essential - Ford Flathead Engines: How to Rebuild and Modify by Tony Thacker and Mike Herman. 2016

Page 107: "Mike adds fresh engine oil to the [oil] pickup. His choice is Valvoline VR1 20-50; it aids in the pump's initial priming."

Is this incorrect?

[tubman]

That statement is unclear. Is he recommending that weight for general use, or for the initial run to facilitate oil pump priming? It seems to me to be the latter, but we can't be sure.

I run my engines on 10-30 or maybe 10-40 (whichever is cheaper). If the oil pressure is unsatisfactory, I would consider an increase in viscosity (or a rebuild).

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by jetmek

Lotsa bad advice out there

Direct from the flathead experienced machinist who built the short block. Been several years and a couple of thousand miles and its still running like a top. Everyone has their own thoughts about oil but 20/50 works for me.

[leon bee]

We don't really need another post here, but what the hell. I have two flatheads running, one completely rebuilt and another "freshened up". I used a 30wt breakin oil in each, and then went to NAPA 10w-30. Both engines have great oil pressure.

The thing is, I would not have considered the 10-30 except for Ol' Ron's posts since I came here to the Ford Barn.

[aussie merc]

first up fit a filter no filter = no chance of catching any thing that shouldnt be there Then talk to your oil supplier they will recomend the correct viscosity for your conditions. I might be wrong but it appears that every one has missed oil temp is actually what controls viscosity and oil life. you wouldnt run 20/50 in winter in northern canada as you wouldnt run 10/30 in saudi in summer as little as 10deg increase on a constant basis can half oil life. Castrol Texeco Shell it realy dosent matter they all have some smart people on there help lines

[Bill OH]

I run 5W20 in a 221 with Mellings oil pump - pressure is 35lbs at 170 deg F

[Ol' Ron]

I run my bearings alittle on the loose side so mu oil pressure is alittle low. I also run my engines hot, use a 180 stat and the fan kicks in at 200. I run a 3 lb cap and sometimes on a hot day might see 21-/215 oil pressure is about 10 at idle and 30/40 at speed. Now what I want you to do is get your engine hot and remove the plug on the oil pump output why the engine is idling. I did this once on an old engine I was working on and the oil shot out of the port and half way across the driveway, before I could
d shut the engine off I lost 2 qts of oil. This is call flow and it cools the bearing. at 50lbs your setting up a resistance to flow and the bearings will run hotter. And as any competent engine builder will tell you heat is the bearings enemy. However, Yes it does work, It's a lubricant, and the engine is overdesigned.

Back in my racing days I used hi volume pumps and shimmed up therelief spring and ran 40 wt racing oil. I changed bering every 3 or 4 weeks, finally broke a crank due to the erosion to 80 lbs of oil mad to the crank. It was part of the learning process years later we could run a whole season on one set of bearings.

[56markII]

Since I don't live in Arizona or Furnace Creek AND if I'm lucky I have a summer that reaches 90 degrees instead of 50's or 60's for temps up in the Snow Mexican Republic of Canuckastan�� and for over 30 years all I ever ran in my 50 Mercury with a 255 is 5W30!
Around 80,000 miles on it since I rebuilt it in the 80's and I still get 40-50psi at idle and 75+psi on the highway and yes my gauge is working properly. For those who think they need oil as thick as gear oil look under the hood of a modern Ford truck and notice 5w20 on the oil cap! For years Oldsmobile has had 5W30 recommended including in the big boats with 455Cu. Another reason for light oil other than keeping the engine cleaner by better splash is the valves are only lubricated by mist which is cast off the connecting rods and flies up through small holes in the lifter valley. I ran 15W40 one year and when I pulled my car out of winter storage many of the valves were sticking until I let the engine roar on fast idle for a while. It's comical listening to valves snapping shut after the engine is shut off and is cooling down. Oh yes not only do I use lighter oil, I even tossed the oil deflectors snapped on the oil lubrication pipe in the valley to allow more oil to fly up there with NO noticeable increase in oil consumption after all the valve stems are hanging down and not pointing up like an overhead valve engine! A little experiment I did so I leave them off because even if consumption increases a tiny bit, it doesn't bother me.

[Ol' Ron]

I don't understand why the pressure is so HIgh ????????

[Mike A Model]

I would like to thank everyone for their valued recommendations, they are all appreciated.

Mike

[philipswanson]

30w Rotella. I want to avoid oil leaks you get with 10w or 20w oils. I live in sunny SoCa though.

[GB SISSON]

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15-40 diesel oil, usually Delo or Shell rotella . You do know you've opened up Pandora's box don't you!

[Ol' Ron]

If you were dealing with an aircraft engine?? would you ignore the manufacturer's recommendations??