Clutch Adjustment Rod

[31ASlant]

I recently purchased a 31 slant A
The transmission shifts ok, but it does grind more than it should I feel when changing gears. I do double clutch and match engine speed. I have to get that so right to get a smooth shift.
My pedal from the top travels about 2.5 inches before contacting any resistance.
I looked and my adjustment rod is all the way up. I was able to turn it 2 times around till it bottomed. This gave me a touch more pedal. However , I had to place a jack on the transmission lever to get the yoke to attach to the transmission lever in order to get the sleeve through.
I was trying to achieve the 1 " freeplay with no success.
Does anyone have a suggestion on what to do from here? Or just leave it alone?
If I had more adjustment room on the rod, than I would have to move the transmission lever even further up which may start engagement of the clutch and that would not be good.
Thank you in advance

[PC/SR]

One inch free play is usually not enough unless your clutch is worn. 2" is about right. Do the gears grind when putting it into gear when stopped? No need to double clutch going up. Maybe you just need more experience down shifting. It is kind of an art that requires practice.

[Brentwood Bob]

The use of the bottle jack works ok to replace the third hand.

[31ASlant]

It does not grind when stopped putting in gear.
I thought you had to double clutch going up and down gears?
So free play is measured from where the pedal lays at rest to were it starts to feel resistance with my hand?
Just making sure.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by 31ASlant

It does not grind when stopped putting in gear.
I thought you had to double clutch going up and down gears?
So free play is measured from where the pedal lays at rest to were it starts to feel resistance with my hand?
Just making sure.

Freeplay. Yes, thats how its measured. Most folks like 1", but, I prefer more. 1.5-2.0" should be fine. I usually keep it at 1.5". As mentioned, if it'll shift into first smoothly from neutral then its good. The engine idle speed should be reasonable too, not too fast.

Upshifts usually shouldn't require double clutching. Try and shift sooner and slower. Take your time. These old cars are in no hurry to do anything.

Downshifts do require a double clutch until you get used to them. And it takes more engine speed than you might realize. Better to have too much engine speed than not enough. Keep the engine speed up and steady, I don't 'blip' the throttle. A little practice and the shifts will be as slick as snot.

[john charlton]

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Something doesnt sound quite right here. My pedal has 1 1/2" play with 3/4" of rod above the trunnion it works fine . It might be the pressure plate is out of adjustment .

John in sunny evening Suffolk County England .

[1931 flamingo]

Look for a cracked arm on the transmission.
Paul in CT

[jw hash]

1" to 1-1/2" free play is right on. and as your clutch wares you will loose your free play. it sound to me that your fingers on your pressure plate are NOT set correct.


Added, and as 1931 said check your clutch arm.

[31ASlant]

Ok. I don't believe the lever on the trans is cracked. Seems ok.
Clutch pressure plate adjustment sounds about right. I didn't know that was possible. Can that be done with trans in car?
I attached some photos to look at.
The bar up top were the rod and brake rod come through near the end cap.
Is that supposed to be seperated there? I wasn't sure on that?
Thank you again for all the great answers.

[Kurt in NJ]

Looks like the hole, and or clevis pin is worn

[Bob C]

I agree with Kurt.

[Patrick L.]

Yep, the hole and arm are worn.

It looks like there is a lot of adjustment left.

[31ASlant]

So I should replace clutch yoke threaded arm and clutch lever arm too?

[Mulletwagon]

If all linkage parts are sericeable (not bent, broken), the most likely culprit is the clutch fingers. Unlike V-8 pressure plates, Model A pressure plates have adjustable fingers that must be properly adjusted and then staked in place. Sounds like your fingers are too low and require significant pedal displacement before the throwout bearing makes contact with the finger tips. Might pull the clutch inspection cover and take a look. Letg us know what the fix turns out to be.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good afternoon...You might consider cleaning the area well...shoot is with spray brake cleaner or some such and get everything moving freely as apposed to grinding on dirt. The clutch adjusting rod (stock) in hard to adjust. Bratton's 1-800-255-1929 (as well as other suppliers) have an updated 'Clutch Adjusting Yoke' that makes adjustments much easier. Part number 11361...$32.95. A bit pricey but well worth the money. Ernie in Arizona

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by 31ASlant

So I should replace clutch yoke threaded arm and clutch lever arm too?

Just remove the pin and take a look. The holes can be worn [ they look like they are] but still can be usable. If there is still enough material on them then just adjust the rod and go for a ride. It looks to me from the pics that there is plenty of adjustment left on that rod.
If you think they are too worn then its time to replace them. I don't have a problem with the original stuff. I don't think I've had to adjust the clutch in 20 years. But if you do replace the rod the vendors do have a more expensive one that makes adjustment easier.

[31ASlant]

Thank you again. I appreciate all the help. I'll clean it up and replace if needed. She's shifting better now with the adjustment I made to this point.