36 Ford drag link orientation question

[davids2toys]

Got all that.
When you say count the turns lock to lock, I am doing that on the steering wheel itself correct, not the steering arm off the box? In detail, how exactly do you adjust the length of the drag link. I am assuming it is with the adjustment sleeve somehow.

[davids2toys]

As far as going lock to lock.Is this inside to box or do I need to hook the drag link back up to do this. I broke it free yesterday

[davids2toys]

I just did it on the steering wheel with drag link disconnected. It is 4 7/8 turns lock to lock.So that answers that question.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

In detail, how exactly do you adjust the length of the drag link. I am assuming it is with the adjustment sleeve somehow.

Thought I covered that! One end of the sleeve has RH threads the other end has LH threads. Rotating the sleeve shortens or lengthens the steering link length. Mart also posted the procedure. Center the wheels/tires, center the steering wheel, adjust the steering link (drag link) to fit. It is the same for the tie rod or the drag link, rotating the sleeve/tube moves the ends futher apart or closer together depending on which way you rotate it.

[glennpm]

So as said here by Mart and JSeery, rotate the steering wheel from either end to the middle, 2 7/16 turns WITHOUT the drag link connected. Adjust the length so the rod ends JUST drop into the holes at the pitman arm and the wheel spindle.



Suggest you re-read all the messages in this thread.

[davids2toys]

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You did, I got confused. So when I rotated the adjust sleeve a 1/2 turn to get the bolt side away from the oil pan I actually lengthened or shortened the drag link. I thought that maybe you loosen the adjuster on one side, then disconnect the tie rod on the wheel side and turned it into the adjust, then reconnect and tighten. Yes, that would be ridiculous. I guess some of the confusion was from me asking the the original question about rotating the adjuster and there would be no change? From what you are saying, in actuality, there was a definite change in length of the drag link! Maybe because I was only doing a 1/2 turn, that was not significant enough change to mention earlier?
Thank you

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by glennpm

So as said here by Mart and JSeery, rotate the steering wheel from either end to the middle, 2 7/16 turns WITHOUT the drag link connected. Adjust the length so the rod ends JUST drop into the holes at the pitman arm and the wheel spindle.



Suggest you re-read all the messages in this thread.

I did re-read it all. I had even printed out Mart's instructions a week ago. I hope to finish it up tonight.
Another great thread: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nk#post1613352
I wish I had read this before taking it apart. Nice way to find steering position in relation to having the wheels straight going do the road.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

From what you are saying, in actuality, there was a definite change in length of the drag link! Maybe because I was only doing a 1/2 turn, that was not significant enough change to mention earlier?
Thank you

I don't think I'd worry too much about turning a drag link only 1/2 turn. Most drag links have 18 TPI (threads per inch). Each full thread (one full turn) equates to a length of roughly 0.055". Correspondingly, 1/2 turn would equate to a change in length of about 0.028", roughly equivalent to the space of the gap on a flathead spark plug.


If you're still having clearance problems, I have one more suggestion. The picture below shows a '36 Pitman arm as well as a 1937-'40 Pitman arm. As you can see, the '37-'40 arm is longer, and would position your drag link farther forward. It is a direct replacement on the '36 steering box, but the added length should cause slightly more effort to turn the steering wheel while sitting still...the result of physics and the length of levers. Anyway, the '37-'40 Pitman arm will have a "78-3590" number on it. DD

[Mart]

DD, using you figures, you actually do get .055" for half a turn of the sleeve. It's because you get 28 form the right hand thread and 28 from the left also. You get a full pitch from half a turn of the sleeve.

On the drag link the actual length is not as critical as the tie rod. That does need to be bang on as it sets the toe in.

Mart.

[glennpm]

Good, you're getting there!


"I did re-read it all. I had even printed out Mart's instructions a week ago. I hope to finish it up tonight.
Another great thread: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nk#post1613352
I wish I had read this before taking it apart. Nice way to find steering position in relation to having the wheels straight going do the road."


Glenn

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Mart

DD, using you figures, you actually do get .055" for half a turn of the sleeve. It's because you get 28 form the right hand thread and 28 from the left also. You get a full pitch from half a turn of the sleeve.
Mart.

Dang Mart, you caught me asleep again.....you are absolutely right! DD

[JSeery]

Yes, but it is still very little movement, that is why it was posted originally that turning the adjustment sleeve 1/2 turn would not make any real difference in the overall length.

[Tinker]

Isn't the issue at hand about clearance? Guess i'm not sure the question being asked.

[JSeery]

He is trying reversing the steering drag link for clearance and at the same time adjust the length to center the steering wheel. There is the added issue of turning the adjusting sleeve beyond the ideal position to get maximum clearance for the clamp bolts on the sleeve.

[Tinker]

Wouldn't a drop steering arm kinda simplify it? Adjusting the tie rod granted? Don't you just remove the steering arm to center it?


Just ignore me JS, I'm out.

[davids2toys]

So, this was a mile off. When I did lock to lock center on the steering wheel, the wheels were far from straight. So, where the pit-man arm was sitting in the midpoint steering wheel travel is what I adjusted the drag link to. It needs to be shortened about a 1/2. Unfortunately, there was very little threads left on the tie rod that screws into the adjuster, so I did the adjusting by just screwing in the other side. So the wheels are straight now. The drag link is still hitting the pan hard, but now it is more like a super hard rub vs what I had with bolt and sleeve smashing into the pan. So when I am rubbing to the point of not being able force it any more, I still have 1 1/2 turns of potential travel that I can’t make. It doesn't look like I am going to have any interference with the adjusting sleeve end of the drag link. It is not coming close to anything, but can't tell what will happen once I solve the oil pan problem and I am able to get the additional travel. I think I have the 1936 pit-man arm as described earlier. The part # stamped on it is 48-3590-16. Is this correct # for a 1936 car?
So the 37 pit-arm will probably be a good way to go. Is 37 car and truck the same number?

[Tinker]

I would not rely on factory 36-37 stuff with a 8ba in the vehicle. Could measure and adapt. or not.


Great long explanations of the issues.

[davids2toys]

Found this on ebay but part number is wrong?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1937-41...-/352466964634

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I would not rely on factory 36-37 stuff with a 8ba in the vehicle. Could measure and adapt. or not.


Great long explanations of the issues.

If the 37 is a direct replacement onto the 36 box, and is an inch longer which would bring it an inch forward(away from the oil pan). That is adapting to the 8ba engine no? I think this was V8COOPMAN point in posting it.

[Tinker]

True. lot of ways to skin a cat. That cat might work. I am never questioning V8coops knowledge.