Door drop

[peterknight]

This is the driver's door drop I had with my '29 Model A Sport Coupe. I had eliminated the hinges as being the cause, but I noticed that whereas the front edge of the passenger door was vertical, the front edge of the driver's door was tilted. By removing the body-to-frame bolts from the long body block at the base of the cowl, and loosening the two under the seat, I was able to pry up the body enough to add about a 1/4" spacer to the rear of the cowl body block (two bolts). I re-tightened all bolts, but found that the front edge of the body was bending - but much worse than in the photo.


I fixed most of the bend by levering up on the bottom of the door using a 2x4, pivoted on the seat frame. The end result is shown - a (almost) level door!

[1931 flamingo]

Nice job ! !
Paul in CT

[Railcarmover]

I noticed that on my body too,the upper door edge appears to be trailing down compared to the upper door frame reveal.My body is on the dolly,and my belt rail (door to body) and door bottom edge is true to the rear quarter panel..cowl and B pillar is tight.

[History]

It looks like I need to do the same but it's my hood that's not lined up with the cowl. Looks like the wood underneath has compressed or rotted some.

Rail,, not to change the subject but what do you think your top is going to cost? Will you have to replace any wood?

[Purdy Swoft]

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Originally Posted by peterknight

This is the driver's door drop I had with my '29 Model A Sport Coupe. I had eliminated the hinges as being the cause, but I noticed that whereas the front edge of the passenger door was vertical, the front edge of the driver's door was tilted. By removing the body-to-frame bolts from the long body block at the base of the cowl, and loosening the two under the seat, I was able to pry up the body enough to add about a 1/4" spacer to the rear of the cowl body block (two bolts). I re-tightened all bolts, but found that the front edge of the body was bending - but much worse than in the photo.


I fixed most of the bend by levering up on the bottom of the door using a 2x4, pivoted on the seat frame. The end result is shown - a (almost) level door!

I'm a retired body man and I often used the same method to raise sagging doors When I worked at Chevrolet dealerships . I usually made this adjustment without the owner present . Most don't realize that putting weight on the door when getting in and out can and will bend the frame of the door where the hinge connects to the door . In such cases levering up on the door is the better method . Usually adjusting the hinges with a wrench will have little effect when the door frame is bent and sagging . Before levering up you need to block up with something between the bottom of the door frame and the two by four that you lever with or it will bend the lower outer edge of the door . With the model A there is no wrench adjustment to correct door sag . Either shimming under the cowl or levering up is the only way to adjust for sag that comes to mind .