Battery cut off switch location

[Safewiz]

Will be installing a battery cut off switch this weekend. Also installing a fuse link on the starter. Looking for ideas as to best place to install cut off switch. Not wanting to drill firewall. Thought about mounting under drivers seat. Looking for other ideas or suggestions. Thanks.

[Mitch//pa]

Model of car is helpful.... This has been hashed over for eternity ..try a search, lots of pics also.....
If it's the Tudor I install them under the seat as it's easily reachable...I don't like them under the hood for many reasons....

[Safewiz]

It is the Tudor. Under the seat seemed like the best spot as this is my daily, so I will be using a lot.

[29Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by Safewiz

Will be installing a battery cut off switch this weekend. Also installing a fuse link on the starter. Looking for ideas as to best place to install cut off switch. Not wanting to drill firewall. Thought about mounting under drivers seat. Looking for other ideas or suggestions. Thanks.

I just installed one on the sheet metal seat base. Not really visible but still in an easy to get to spot when needed. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the sheet metal to mount the switch. And two holes in the plywood under the seat to route the battery cables. I needed two new cables for the extended run. 1 at 36", battery to switch; and 1 at 48", switch to starter.

[Barber31]

I mounted mine centered between the driver seat and passenger seat. Not visible at all.

[Bob Bidonde]

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A battery cutoff switch installation in the driver's side motor mount.

[old31]

On my roadster I installed a horizontal knife switch on the battery. I also have a fuse on the starter.

After I installed the knife I said well that was dumb and a waste of money. It is a lot quicker and easier to just pull the fuse, vs taking up the carpet, removing the battery cover, switching the knife.

Any one see anything wrong in just removing the fuse?

[1955cj5]

More info here..

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175215

[C26Pinelake]

Dont install it under the hood as it is a pain in the butt. Wayne

[mshmodela]

Given my Tudor is a late 31 which ' has the fuel valve on the firewall I have to open the hood so I elected to place the switch on the starter. As long as your switch is away from wood or things what can burn, you'll be good.... Make sure you get a good quality fuse holder and some spare just incase...

[captndan]

I debated this on my Tudor also. Settled on the bottom starter bolt. No drilling very easy. I forgot to order the mounting bracket and it took 10 minutes to make one.

[Ian in Mississauga]

I use to think like Old 31, just pull the fuse and you're safe, but twice I have had starter switches jamb in the on position. The last time the insulation caught fire before I got the battery cable off.

[Jacksonlll]

I don't think you should use the little fuse holder on top of the starter as a frequently used switch. It was not designed to be a switch. The rivets loosen after a lot of pulling and one day the don't make contact and it is hard to find the prob. Just use a blade fuse.

[rscardina]

I installed mine under the floorboard just in front of the seat riser. there was an existing hole in the cross member in the middle of the car. I used a large hole saw to cut the plywood floorboard for access. I just lift up the carpet as I am sitting in the car ready to start it and there's my cutoff.

[Bob Bidonde]

The reproduction starter switch copper contact is not of the proper alloy and heat treatment to reliably disconnect from the starter's terminal. The original Ford switch has a contact that I believe to be an alloy of beryllium copper, so it has enough stiffness to be an excellent spring as well as an excellent conductor of electricity.

My practice is to replace the reproduction copper contact with an original contact. Doing so, I have not had the experience of a switch contact stuck to the starter terminal.

[29er]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The reproduction starter switch copper contact is not of the proper alloy and heat treatment to reliably disconnect from the starter's terminal. The original Ford switch has a contact that I believe to be an alloy of beryllium copper, so it has enough stiffness to be an excellent spring as well as an excellent conductor of electricity.

My practice is to replace the reproduction copper contact with an original contact. Doing so, I have not had the experience of a switch contact stuck to the starter terminal.

Bob: Great tip! I've had this problem, but also have an original switch on the shelf, thanks to another Barner. I will change out the contact. Thank you for posting.

Mike in Oregon

[Ian in Mississauga]

Thanks for that info Bob. Does anyone know If there is a good repro switch being sold?

[olut]

RHD-vehicles: that is easy, most of the A´s were designed to be assembled as LHD or RHD, consequently you find in the leg room/fire wall section the pre-stamped cut out for the steering column, this is a good place for the master switch, in this case it would be located on the left side, which permits short cable distance from battery to master switch and starter.

LHD-vehicles: if you are ok having a bit longer battery cable, locate the master switch in die leg room/firewall area at the pre stamped cut out zone for the RHD-steering column. Alternatively mount it inside the engine compartment on the firewall above the starter on an aluminum plate, fixed with the existing flange screws firewall to gas tank. This is by the way also a good location for a voltage step up converter if needed...

I have one RHD and two LHD and did it as described....

[d.]

Ian,
the cutoff switches are not repro, they are brand new. Any of the major vendors sell them, Snyder's, Bratton's. They cost approx. $25. HF is not a good place to look for a cutoff switch.

[Mitch//pa]

I believe there are 2 different switches being talked about here.. The repo starter switch that you push to start the car and where to mount a cut out switch..
The battery cut out switches the suppliers sell are of very good quality...
Stay away from those green knobbers and plastic HF units