Honing and rings?

[Bassman/NZ]

Recently I did a hone and installed new rings in my C59A. However, the rings have not seated, so I'm in the throes of pulling the engine down to re-hone. My question is, will I need new rings, or can I re-use the old/new ones?

[JWL]

If the rings have not "seated" it might mean the cylinder bores are oversize, not round, and/or have too much taper. By the time the re-hone job can correct such problems oversized pistons and rings might be called for.

Only after examining the old-new rings can the need for replacement be determined. If the machining texture can still be seen in the OD of the ring face they can probably be reused. But, the cylinder bores need to be reasonably close to specs for the job to be a success. Ford offered "Steel Section" piston rings for worn engine bores. These had expander devices behind the rings to help the rings follow the shape of the bore and did a remarkable job of drying up a oil burner.

[richard crow]

what kind of rings did you use if you used a crome ring. they take a long time to seat some times never

[jake197000]

like jwl said.also the hone finish is important.and cleaning of the bores is critical to ring life.

[Karl Wolf]

I have used a method for seating rings, uses BonAmi cleanser. This is done on a running engine, fast idle. Dust a tablespoon of cleanser into the carburetor, slowly... DO NOT let the engine die while you're doing this...

I know this sounds real funky...

I've used this method twice, worked well both times... I was faced with having to disassemble a fresh engine that had been run long enough for the rings to have seated, and I was certain that I had not got rings upside down, etc.

Karl

[bobH]

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As noted, if ANYTHING other than old-style iron rings were used, be it chrome, moly, or whatever, they are never going to seat in an old bore that is, as John posted, out of round or tapered. And, Karl's suggestion regarding the BonAmi has been known to work, assuming a glazed bore, and rings that actually contact the bore.
I worked at a dealership back in the 60's, where the powers that be, had me give this treatment to new cars (only a couple times), where the new owner hadn't treated the new car to satisfactory break-in treatment. We didn't do exactly as Karl said, though, as we mixed the BonAmi with water, in a Coke bottle, and poured it into the carb as a liquid (rather than a powder). - Yes, running engine, fast idle, don't let it die.
In general, I've had good success with new rings in an old bore, at least for a 'short-term' engine. But, only using IRON rings, and modern oil rings. I've had at least one unsatisfactory experience trying to use a moly ring in an old bore.
My 47, 59A engine, is severely worn, 15-19 thou taper, and I put in new iron rings, modern oil rings, and surprising as it sounds, it uses NO oil - can't even see it move on the dipstick in 3000 miles. I don't expect it to last - it really needs a re-bore (and everything else).
You have nothing to lose, trying the BonAmi treatment. But, you need to ask yourself, did you use iron or chrome rings?, how bad is the bore?
JMO

[FlatheadTed]

Bassman try and get some running in oil or the equivalent ,then get it out somewhere were the cops wont get you and open her up 80-90 hold !,a dry start up is what I do for a re ring job .

[Mart]

Ted, could you elaborate on what you describe as "a dry startup"?

Thanks.

Mart.

[Bassman/NZ]

Thanks for the replies guys.
Bonami is not available here in New Zealand, I have heard of that trick.
Rings are iron. I can see the logic of a dry start up Ted, I did have plenty of oil on each wall before I started it last time.

[scooder]

Mart, I think he's on about no oil in the bores or on pistons for a dry start. Some folk do that.
I oil the bores and pistons with iron rings, but I'm very unforgiving when I run a fresh engine. An old motor bike bloke (speedway) told me years ago "run them in as you intend to use it". Got oil pressure? Yep, get the idle up to about 2000rpm. Stick it in gear and nail it! If it goes pop, it was going to anyway. Everything beds in nice and quick. Putting it under load, normally had the rings seated in about 1/2 mile. Up and down the revs and gears, 30 minutes, change oil, all run in and ready to rock and roll.
Martin.

[Ronnie]

You fellows need to get with the program.. Why not put some valve grinding compound in there as well!!!

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi...il_economy.htm
Read it carefully and then do as you please.

R

[FlatheadTed]

Auto soul chrome cleaner or anty swirl final cutting glaze for paint ,But I don't like the idea .Dry start up ,get oil pressure with the plugs out .no oil in the pots run the revs up while stationary

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

You fellows need to get with the program.. Why not put some valve grinding compound in there as well!!!

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi...il_economy.htm
Read it carefully and then do as you please.

R

Hastings' site is a favorite! I use their break-in procedure religiously:

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi..._procedure.htm