Installing valve assemblies in a 59

[russcc]

I had trouble getting the old faithful Herbrand valve bar through the compound wound LZ springs to grab the slot in the vale guide. Gave up, and used a bent pry bar in the port to push the guide down enough to get the retainer in the slot. Worked great. The section of the bar where it bends rests on the roof of the port, and it is easy to leverage the guide down. The other benefit besides no swearing, is your hand has plenty of room to work in the lifter valley with out the valve bar. See photo. Anyone else used this method ? Any drawbacks to it ? Thank you Fordbarners.

[Ronnieroadster]

Its odd you were unable to put the bar through the LZ springs I use an old Snapon brand and another i have from KR Wilson both work fine in the LZ springs. But never thought about trying it the way you did seems to me its a great way to get it accomplished. Next week Im assembling another engine I plan on trying it your way. We learn something new every day.
Ronnieroadster

[flatjack9]

What do you do with the exhausts?

[russcc]

Good point. I just put in the #1 intake valve assembly in so far. Looks like the it's back to bar for the exhausts unless there is better way.

[Andy]

With straight valves I use a normal spring compressor and put the keepers in with the guides installed.

[alanwoodieman]

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wait until the guide breaks and then tell us how good the narrow pry bar works and don't ask how I know

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Andy

With straight valves I use a normal spring compressor and put the keepers in with the guides installed.

He's talking about installing the guide retainers.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by russcc

I had trouble getting the old faithful Herbrand valve bar through the compound wound LZ springs to grab the slot in the vale guide. Gave up, and used a bent pry bar in the port to push the guide down enough to get the retainer in the slot. Worked great. The section of the bar where it bends rests on the roof of the port, and it is easy to leverage the guide down. The other benefit besides no swearing, is your hand has plenty of room to work in the lifter valley with out the valve bar. See photo. Anyone else used this method ? Any drawbacks to it ? Thank you Fordbarners.

I've installed a lot of LZ springs without a problem.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Andy

With straight valves I use a normal spring compressor and put the keepers in with the guides installed.

This is how it's done here, at least by us. We use the same tool to disassemble and reassemble! Takes us about 45 minutes to install all 16 valve assemblies.

Works very well on both the 59's and the 8BA's. Just need a set of "straight" fingers to get it done.

We use an air-operated unit (photo below), a hand-operated one will also work.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. When we do the bronze-lined guides many customers ask to have the intake guides machined for some "Viton" stem seals at the same time, the above tool is no longer an option with the guides machined down!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by russcc

I had trouble getting the old faithful Herbrand valve bar through the compound wound LZ springs.

All of the LZ springs I have seen were just plain single springs with NO damper.

[russcc]

The springs are NORS Thompson Products, (TRW), VS 487. See photo with compound wound end at the block. That is what makes them tough to get the valve bar in.
Not sure how you would install a spring with the spring compressor in one view. It would mean you would have to try and get the keepers up in place in a tight area ?
I am putting the entire assembly in and depressing the valve guide enough to slide the retaining clip in. You are not likely to damage or break a guide on the intake side by pushing down on the top of it with a wide pry bar.

[russcc]

See valve spring photo.

[Pete]

Thin the end of the forks with a die grinder. They will go in easily then.

[Tinker]

Oh, you are going to prematurely run your cam and cam gear down with lz springs.


I run them on my 38. Not that I was worried about flutter.


No adjustable lifters?


If the guides are tight, you could use something like this? then a regular fork.

[russcc]

Good idea, I will machine the end of the valve bar to get it to fit between the springs better. Thank you.

[russcc]

All is well, the exhaust valve assemblies are in. Took a while to figure a good way to get enough bite of the guide, and leverage to pull it down. A small block of wood between the inside top of the lifter valley and valve bar did wonders. Small needle nose vise grips made installing the retaining clips in that tight space simple. Now for the easy part, the intakes. Than you all for your suggestions.

[Tinker]

The old forks were relieved and fairly thin. Not that there is a lot of room on those springs as the diameters are much bigger. Great you are getting it done.

[russcc]

Update on valve assembly installation. Photo of camshaft "spinner" I made to turn the cam during valve installation and adjustment. Fits in the slot for the dist. at the front of the cam. 3/16' steel plate cut on band saw and ground on belt sander. Slotted a piece of oak with a 3/16 end mill in the Bport, and drilled and tapped holes for bolts to secure the plate in oak arm. Without the crank you can see exactly when the lifter is on the heel of the cam.