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03-25-2018, 10:43 AM | #1 |
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Location: Vernon, BC
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1929 body shim question?
I have a 29 coupe that has been all apart and going back together. The doors are tight at the back top corner, but stick out at the bottom. Can this be fixed with a shim or is this caused by other issues?
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03-25-2018, 11:21 AM | #2 |
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Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
You can fix door drag with rubber shims on your body blocks
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03-25-2018, 12:01 PM | #3 |
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Location: Vernon, BC
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
Which block needs the shim to fix this issue?
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03-25-2018, 02:00 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
When the top rear edge of a door is too close ; first check the gap at the front of the door to the cowl. if it is even, top to bottom, the cowl needs to be pulled down at the front with the #1 bolt. Before making this change the hood should be very close to desired alignments both at the radiator and at the cowl edges. The door openings should be equal. If the hood is good, you'll not tip the cowl, you'll have to drop the rear of the body some or correct the door opening to be wider at the top. Hope this helps. Coupes are easier than fordoors, keep that in mind.
1. hood, 2. door opening parallelism & gaps. If the frame is not right it's going to be a roller coaster. |
03-25-2018, 02:49 PM | #5 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
Are you saying the top of the door is touching the body and the bottom is sticking
out from the body, in other words the bottom of the door need to move towards the center of the car. Bob |
03-25-2018, 04:06 PM | #6 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
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03-25-2018, 05:53 PM | #7 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
The way I've corrected this problem on other cars has been to fit a diagonal tie from the bottom corner of the door furthest from the hinge to about 1/2 way up the door on the hinge side (near the bottom of the window). The tie has a turnbuckle which, when tightened will pull that corner inwards by twisting the door slightly. The adjustment can be done very precisely and the tie is invisible once the trim is reinstalled, just keep it clear of the window regulator.
Now, all that said, the best closing doors and those that don't rattle. They have some "slam" built into them. That is, the door is twisted a little so that either the top or bottom hits the post first when closing it and then the door straightens as it slams shut, causing it to be under stress by the time the catch is engaged. That stops it rattling and gives a very satisfying "THUNK" when it shuts. Hope I've explained that clearly enough. I'd like to be able to draw on this screen to illustrate what I mean.
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03-25-2018, 06:57 PM | #8 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
Bob C. When you make the turnbuckle affair across the errant door how do you attach the ends? I do not have welding skills and at 81 a bit late to start a new career. That said, I have two coupes that suffer the symptom mentioned in number one by Duke so it sounds like you have hit the solution to our problems.
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03-25-2018, 07:05 PM | #9 |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
A wood framed door is easier to attach to than a steel one. Is your car a driver or show car?. For a driver, appearances aren't as critical so you've got a bit of freedom in how you do it.
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03-25-2018, 09:01 PM | #10 |
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Location: Vernon, BC
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
My door was twisted. I put a knee to the bottom edge and gently pulled the top and it fits now. Thanks for all the ideas, it helped. Next issue is I tried to fit the new door latch, not the greatest. A friend is going to see it he has an extra original.
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03-26-2018, 10:44 AM | #11 | |
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Re: 1929 body shim question?
Quote:
Keep us posted on fitting the door locks (Ford's name). It would be if interest to know the fitting problem for the new locks?
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