Replacing Generator Bearings

[Alex Dragone]

Does anyone have any info on how to replace the bearings in a generator? Pictures? The generator on my car stopped charging so I changed it for one I had on the shelf and the bearings make noise but the generator itself charges great. Any info and pictures on how to replace the bearings would be great. Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Try the search feature with "generator bearing puller" or something similar. I've posted pictures and described the correct way to do it, but I'm having problems with Photobucket now, so I probably can't repost the pictures.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's the link:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...earing+removal

Start the job by removing the generator band, then loosen the two brush screws holding the power out wire, and field current wire on the adjustable brush. Slip the wires out from under the screws.

Remove the two long screws holding the generator together. Note the lock washers should be under the screw heads, not next to the nuts.

Remove the bolt holding the pulley and install another bolt about 1 1/2" long, then hold the generator just an inch above your lap and tap on the replacement bolt while holding the pulley, to knock the pulley loose.

Use about a 3/16" drill (at a slight angle) to drill the rolled lip off the 4 rivets, then use a small punch to tap them out the front of the front cover. Replace the rivets with rivet/nuts from the dealers, when you put it back together.

Spread and remove the soft steel ring locking the spacer and bearing in place. Then use the tools I show to remove the bearing. I put a bolt in the end of the shaft to eliminate damaging the shaft taper.

Replace the bearing with a sealed bearing that never needs oil. Be sure to reuse the oil wick and plate on each side of it, as these will act as spacers, in addition to the bearing spacer right behind the lock ring.

I use a copper pipe to tap the new bearing in place. Make sure it only hits the inner race, and don't press or tap against the seal or outer race.

Squeeze the lock ring with pliers and keep going around it until it's squeezed tight to the shaft again. If it isn't fairly tight to the shaft it may squeel on the metal that it hits.

Any more help needed, just ask.

[Tom Wesenberg]

When you install the bearing puller be sure you don't clamp it behind the second lock ring shown in this picture. If the old bearing has spun on the shaft, you may need to knurl the bearing mounting area, or use a center punch to make a lot of marks in the same area. Don't punch too deep though or you'll have a tough time installing the new bearing. Most of the time a very light knurl will correct the loose fitting bearing.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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BTW, if you look carefully at the armature pictured above you can see the insulators are broken off and missing from the brush end of the iron core. On the left side you can see the thick black insulators at the end of the segments. I fixed the brush end by applying clear epoxy glue where the wires meet the segments. This will prevent them from moving and rubbing on the steel, which would short the armature to ground.