11-25-2021, 11:35 AM | #1 |
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Convert to 12v
I really want to convert my 52 F1 to 12volt as I’m redoing it. Does anyone know of an article that gives good guidance for this? Want to convert to electronic ignition, better lights, etc.
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11-25-2021, 11:45 AM | #2 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
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11-25-2021, 12:30 PM | #3 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Thanks for taking time to send this link. Have a good day
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11-25-2021, 12:51 PM | #4 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Do a search on "6 to 12V" and "12v conversion". Much valuable info appears. When I converted my 1940 Ford with an 8BA to 12V I used a Constant Voltage Reducer so I could continue to have the instruments and the gas tank sending unit and gauge operate on 6V. I am using a Pertronix ignition module. Avoid the Mallory Unilite Electronic ignition as the modules are poor quality and expensive. Read about it here:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...olt+conversion |
11-25-2021, 02:13 PM | #5 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
To go from 6 to 12 volts, you don't need to change your wires - 6-volt wiring is
twice the thickness required for an equivalent 12-volt circuit. But you do need a 12-volt battery with the same or greater cold-crank amp rating as the 6-volt battery it replaces. The 12-volt battery will most likely be standard polarity (negative ground), but your old Ford is reverse polarity (positive ground). Therefore you will have to reverse the polarity on selected polarity-sensitive circuits and electrical devices. You must address the charging system. You can install a 12-volt generator, but an alternator is much more efficient. The 6-volt starter and solenoid work: The starter will crank twice as fast, which means the engine should start more easily, at the possible cost of slightly reduced starter life. One way to extend starter life is to actually promote some voltage drop in the crank circuit by installing a smaller and longer starter cable than standard. In theory, you can keep the existing points distributor and just install a 12-volt coil-but if you're going to all this trouble to install a modern electrical system, why not install a modern electronic ignition while you're at it? Use a Bosch blue 12V coil, it is internally resisted. Pertronics makes a Conversion to electronic. A good stock or modified GM distributor (8BA engine), Mallory dual point with that Bosch coil is good for trouble free driving. CharlieNY on this site for GM conversion distributors You can retain most 6-volt switches, including the headlight switch, heater switch, and ignition switch. However, you must replace all 6-volt bulbs - including the headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn-signal lights, park lights, and instrument panel and interior bulbs - with 12.volt equivalents. Also replace the 6-volt turn-signal flasher with a 12.volt unit. Finally, you'll have to deal with the 6-volt fuel gauges, electric oil and coolant temperature gauges, electric clocks, and motors like the heater/blower motor, A/C compressor clutch or solenoid, electric fuel pump, and/or windshield-wiper motor [stock Fords typically used vacuum-powered windshield wipers]. However, if it's a custom street rod, you could upgrade everything to modern 12-volt equivalents. If it's an original factory car, the best solution is to use an electronic voltage regulator. Ron Francis is one source for a universal aftermarket version. It markets two units: PN VR-l is designed to power low-current devices like instruments and radios with less than 6 watts/channel output. [Positive-ground radios usually don't respond well and should be converted to 12-volt operation by Antique Auto Radio or replaced entirely by a modern 12-volt radio.] The higher-current rated Francis unit (PNVR-4) can handle some electric wiper motors and early air-conditioner solenoids; it has a 15-amp rated output capacity. Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts is another source for transistorized voltage drop units, conversion alternators, brackets, and instructions, and also sells The Official 12-Volt Conversion Guide. The guide covers alternators and generators, mounting brackets, pulleys, overdrives, ignition coils, and 6- to 12-volt bulb crossover numbers. Yet another solution to your dash instruments is to install a factory-style instrument cluster voltage regulator. Believe it or not, most '60s-vintage Fords, even though they had 12-volt electrical systems, still retained 6-volt electrical gauges-so there's a standard replacement regulator for those cars that could also be used for your application. A common stock application would be for a '68 Mustang (AutoZone PN IVR601 or equivalent). I've used the Ron Francis VR1 for 15 years, and no issues. The ammeter doesn't care if it sees 6 or 12 volts. However, if you're using a high-amp alternator that puts out a lot more juice than the original generator, consider converting to a voltmeter the old amp gauge won't read high enough to accurately report the alternator's output, and it's really not a great idea to run all that high-amp current through the dash anyway. If you're handy with electronics and need to reduce voltage to a high-current motor (over 15 amps' draw), it's possible to build your own custom voltage regulator out of transistors, resistors, and a potentiometer. The current-carrying capacity would equal the rated output of the power transistor inside the unit. Newark Electronics is one source for high-end electronic components. Otherwise, there's always the old wire-wound ceramic resistor routine. But it's not a cure-all-only a crutch! Typical automotive-type heavy-duty resistors may have up to a ±40 percent variance from their nominal rating. This means a resistor could take that 12-volt input and output it to any-thing from 2.4 to 8.4 volts. The input voltage can also vary widely depending on the battery's state of charge, changing electrical demand in the vehicle, and ambient temperature changes. Precision close-tolerance resistors are available, but if the input voltage varies significantly, they may not be able to handle the fluctuation in output without failure. And in any event high-power resistors radiate lots of heat. Because of these drawbacks, resistors should only be used as an absolute last resort, and only on devices like motors that are robust enough to handle current fluctuations. They should not be used for delicate instruments or electronic equipment. SOURCES CharlieNY on this site for GM converted distributors PM him for info ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE RADIO INC.; Palm Harbor, FL; 800/933-4926 or 727/785-8733; www.radiosforoldcars.com AUTOZONE; Memphis, TN; 800/288-6966; www.autozone.com FIFTH AVENUE ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS; Clay Center, KS; 785/632-3450; www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com M.A.D. ENTERPRISES; Springville, CA; 559/539-7128; www.madelectrical.com (not sure if he is in business, good info on the site) MALLORY IGNITION www.malloryperformance.com NEWARK; Chicago, IL (branches nationwide]; 800/4- NEWARK or 773/784.5100; www.newark.com PERTRONIX PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS; San Dimas, CA; 909/599.5955; www.pertronix.com RON FRANCIS WIRING; Chester, PA; 800/292-1940 [sales] or 866/330-1933 [support); www.ronfrancis.com
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11-25-2021, 06:50 PM | #6 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
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11-25-2021, 11:40 PM | #7 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Here's what I did on my 52 F3. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-numbers.html
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11-26-2021, 09:48 AM | #8 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Scotty: Thanks for posting that excellent presentation with photos and descriptions
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11-26-2021, 09:55 AM | #9 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
I like the idea of the skinny starter cable. Of course you wouldn't want to over do this. Could someone advise a cable gauge and length?
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11-26-2021, 10:12 AM | #10 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Jim,
If your building a driver for you. It's a good update. The 6 volt systems will work fine if all things are in good order. I like the upgrade to 12 volt as you mentioned. Welcome to the Ford barn. We need some pictures. Regards, Chris
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11-27-2021, 11:22 AM | #11 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
Scotty - really appreciate the photo that you included
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11-27-2021, 04:59 PM | #12 |
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Re: Convert to 12v
I'm glad it helped. I get a lot from this forum so I try to contribute when I can.
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