Hand Cranking Rookie Question

[JunkOSC]

I'm going to drop my oil pan and take a look at possibly adjusting (shim) the mains and rods. The question is, what is the best way to hand crank the engine while adjusting the shims without a hand crank?

Thank you,Tim

[CarlG]

1-3/8 (?) Socket with a 8-12" extention using a 24" ratchet

[JunkOSC]

Motor is in the car and there is no room for the socket to fit.

I see they sell a wrench... but they want $44 bucks for one.

[Milton]

CRANKFor Year(s): 28-31

With lug socket on other end

Part #22660 CRANK $ 17.50

"I see they sell a wrench... but they want $44 bucks for one."

No thanks Monte, I think I'll take door number one instead.

[JunkOSC]

Milton, Thats what I need. Thank you!!

[Dave72dt]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Buy a cheap socket, bend up some flat iron and weld to the socket.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by JunkOSC

Motor is in the car and there is no room for the socket to fit...

That's odd, it fits in mine. Put the socket on, stick the extention thru the crank hole & the ratchet on the end of the extention out in front of the radiator.

[Roadster62]

Got two jackstands? You could jack up the rear put in gear and turn a rear wheel.

[Bruce of MN]

I thought that would make the other rear wheel go backwards?

[JunkOSC]

Originally Posted by CarlG

That's odd, it fits in mine. Put the socket on, stick the extention thru the crank hole & the ratchet on the end of the extention out in front of the radiator.

Carl,
My socket is to deep, it's hitting the crank handle guide.
Thanks,
Tim

[85930tudor]

buy the orginal type crank . works just like Henry wanted it to and also has the lug wrench

[JunkOSC]

Originally Posted by 85930tudor

buy the orginal type crank . works just like Henry wanted it to and also has the lug wrench

Thats exactly what I'm going to do. Thanks guys.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by JunkOSC

Carl,
My socket is to deep, it's hitting the crank handle guide.
Thanks,
Tim

Here's a picture of mine -- the one on the right is the 1-3/8" Wright #4844 1/2" drive shallow impact socket, eBay for about $10 including shipping

[Bruce Lancaster]

My personal rig for Model B, and I am nearly certain it will fit Model A just as well. Better than the OEM crank because you can turn both ways when working on valves or ignition, better than extension rigs because you can work entirely under hood without having to reach around radiator...
First, you need a socket, and it needs to be 1/2" drive because the 3/4 ones are just too bulky to go in there. Following advice from someone on this board long ago, I found that Sears has a 36MM that is just about right and available everywhere. Finding a real inch one that is not too fat will take more effort...
I then snapped one of the little button adapters Sears sells into the 1/2 drive...this give you a 3/4" nut in the place where the extension would go. This is cheap; it comes in a set of the three most common drive sizes. I do not remember what sears calls the widget but it lives near the sockets in the store.
That goes right onto the crank nut without hanging up on the crossmember or the spring clamps.
Now, you can rotate engine with an open end...but I splurged and got a ratcheting box wrench for the job, giving me easy and reversible turning from right within engine compartment.

[Jason in TX]

I need to make a tool to allow turning on the inside of the engine bay. Removing the front mounted tool box to get the original crank in there is a pain!

Saw a guy who was selling box wrenches that he had heated and bent, but I also think he wanted around $45 for those as well. I didn't want to pay that at the time. Time to use some of the advice here and come up with something!

[Bruce Lancaster]

When I bought the toys described above at Sears, I actually bought one straight and one cranked box ratchet to give me some options. I think anything single-piece is going to be somewhat clumsy and inconvenient.
For the babbitt adjustment in the original question, though, I would say remove the plugs, leave it in neutral with proper precautions, and he can likely turn it adequately from down below by hand. No need for extra tools or crawling back upstairs to manipulate them...

[JunkOSC]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

My personal rig for Model B, and I am nearly certain it will fit Model A just as well. Better than the OEM crank because you can turn both ways when working on valves or ignition, better than extension rigs because you can work entirely under hood without having to reach around radiator...
First, you need a socket, and it needs to be 1/2" drive because the 3/4 ones are just too bulky to go in there. Following advice from someone on this board long ago, I found that Sears has a 36MM that is just about right and available everywhere. Finding a real inch one that is not too fat will take more effort...
I then snapped one of the little button adapters Sears sells into the 1/2 drive...this give you a 3/4" nut in the place where the extension would go. This is cheap; it comes in a set of the three most common drive sizes. I do not remember what sears calls the widget but it lives near the sockets in the store.
That goes right onto the crank nut without hanging up on the crossmember or the spring clamps.
Now, you can rotate engine with an open end...but I splurged and got a ratcheting box wrench for the job, giving me easy and reversible turning from right within engine compartment.

Very good point.

I got the oil pan off, what a chore that was. No babbit material in the pan... thats good. There are plenty of shims in place on both the mains and rods... thats also good. I still need to remove the caps and see how they look.

Thanks for the support.
Tim