Hydraulic Brakes vs. Original?

[pklarkin]

Hi folks, I'm in the process of a frame-up restoration/rebuild of my 1929 Business Coupe (https://patsmodela.wordpress.com/) and I'm trying to decide if I should keep the mechanical brakes or upgrade to hydraulic. I don't plan on doing a lot of highway driving, but would like to be safe. Asking for your thoughts. Thanks!

[mshmodela]

If you have need due to health reasons you may need hydraulic brakes --less work needed from the driver... Otherwise, I'd keep them mechanical.. I've locked up my mechanical brakes and at that point it's all tires. (speed < 40mph).

[Charles Coe]

I'd keep the mechanical brakes. If you restore them they will stop the car well.

[Bob C]

Keep the mechanical brakes.

Bob

[Jim Brierley]

Unless you are going to show the car, go to hydraulics.

[Kurt in NJ]

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I consider hydraulic brakes on a model A a downgrade when compared to proper restoration

[oldbike99]

The conversion to hydraulic brakes is not as easy as it initially seems, with the need to alter the pedals and battery box to accommodate a master cylinder, as well as many other hurdles. Each way, done correctly, simply mean that you will be able to skid the skinny, original size tires. The hydraulic system will just do it with less effort, which might not be a good thing.

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Unless you are going to show the car, go to hydraulics.

You dang hot rodder

[Y-Blockhead]

If the wheels can be locked up with the mechanicals, hydraulics are not going to improve your braking. Once the wheels lock your braking diminishes. The only pro to hydraulic I can see is maybe less effort (and maybe less maintenance?).

[Willie Krash]

Someone here in the past has already said it, I've never known mechanical brakes to leak..
I think one of the reasons model A and T have defied time is in its simplicity.
Rubber rots, seals, wheel cylinders etc..
What other car can sit 30+ years and you can start it and run it? And it will stop.

[Terry, NJ]

I have two cars (Coupe and T.S.) and both have Hyd. brakes and I wish they didn't. Why? you ask. Well I have just about rebuilt both of them and I don't think that there's any advantage to the Hydraulics. I've had to replace both Hyd. Master Cyls and in doing so, I converted to a dual MC. And I've replaced lines and hard to get fittings with hard to find threads. BTW if you're still so inclined Speedway racing parts sells a pretty good dual MC for $39 IIRC, Google Speedway racing. Another drawback is the mounting of it. There are basically two (?) ways to activate it.One is to use the brake cross shaft and mount the MC outside of the chassis. The other requires cutting the rod arm off the brake pedal and welding it on the bottom of the brake pedal so that it pushes backwards when the pedal is pushed forward. Go to my profile and check my pics under "My Coupe". They should give you a pretty good idea of the two methods. Also, when the cars sit for while, the wheel cylinders tend to lock up. And no matter where you locate the MC, it will be hard to fill. A good mechanical system has none of this.
Terry

[barry022]

Redo the mechanicals on a stock Model A correctly and you will be glad you did not go to hydraulics.

[burner31]

I'm currently working on getting my brakes the way I want them to work.
I'm keeping the original mechanical, a little more involved on getting them tuned in but I believe if done right they are the only choice, once you change out, you'll play hell going back to original later down the road. Leave them as Henry intended them, you'll be happier in the long run.
Mechanical brakes are a marvel to see, plus, you'll never have a brake fluid leak or have to bleed the brakes.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

My brother had hydraulics on his 30 coupe and he had trouble equalizing the stopping power on all wheels then the wheel cylinders acted up and one would grab and not the other, constant troubles and uneven braking the result, stop light switches were also problematic with brake fluid degrading the rubber. I have mechanicals on the coupe with no problems at all.

[Kevin in NJ]

Work wise to do an initial set up they both need to be carefully put together.

You still need to get the shoes matching the radius of the drums and centered. You still need to buy a bunch of new parts. Of course you have to engineer a proper set up for your juice brakes.

So what do you get for all the work. They both stop about the same and the true limits for stopping power are the tires and the limited contact patch.

Now lets us talk case historys.

Two cars in my families stable in the decades we have owned cars in the NJ area.
The 31 coupe my brother has basically not done anything to the brakes other then adjust them since like 1970. The car is still on the road and he has not problems running it 55 MPH.
The 39 Ford we had that was very original. It was the classic older couple had it in the garage with only 40,000 miles (V8 60HP). First year for juice brakes. Could not keep the brakes working right (to our satisfaction) every few years a wheel would mess up. Keep in mind we were putting NOS parts on it and even switched to dot 5 stuff.
Juice brakes will fail from just sitting. (this depends on area of the country based on humidity and temp variation during the day)

The catch with mechanical brakes is they have to be done very right. Parts much be new and properly assembled (most parts are available in quality repro parts). Shoes much match the drum diameter and be centered to the drum. Ford designed the brakes to run a .001" accuracy. I learned this from someone who had viewed the prints at the research center. He was surprised of how accurately the brakes were designed.

[mshmodela]

Keep in mind within the drum it's all mechanics --shoes putting mechanical force on the drums. I like think of them as power breaks, like power steering... hydraulically assisted mechanical systems.. One day steering of cars will be "drive by wire" --no direct connection mechanically to the wheels --just like "fly by wire" planes..

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Willie Krash

Someone here in the past has already said it, I've never known mechanical brakes to leak..
I think one of the reasons model A and T have defied time is in its simplicity.
Rubber rots, seals, wheel cylinders etc..
What other car can sit 30+ years and you can start it and run it? And it will stop.

A wise man ! I totally agree ! Wayne

[Corn Fed]

Didn't old Henry have a slogan something like "the power of steel from heal to wheel"????
I never have had a mechanical brake car, but I bet if set up correctly they would do just fine.

[Rex_A_Lott]

I think you answered your own question when you said " I am doing a ground up restoration"....there were never hydraulic brakes on an A from the factory.
If you wish to say " I am putting together an old car from some old parts", then it would be OK to use the hydraulics.

[mrtexas]

The big question is how often are you going to drive it? Once a week or more and hydraulic are great. If not exercised however they will be a problem. In my experience hydraulics are way cheaper if you send out your mechanical backing plates and hubs to be restored vs that was not required for hydraulics. For mechanicals to be effective they can't be worn out and good luck if you don't have new cast iron drums. Mechanicals require good condition equipment not worn out and sloppy like my 28 and 29 were when I got them and mechanicals have lots of point of wear. Hydraulics don't have all those wear points. The only thing to wear out on hydraulics is the shoes(this assumes you use the hydraulics at least once a week to avoid stuck wheel cylinders. I'm replacing the hydraulics on my two to mechanical as I will be selling them and many Model A folks like mechanicals and few drive enough to keep hydraulics working. When is the last time you have seen a Model A driving down the road? I haven't seen someone list the details of how to get mechanical brakes work effectively. Typical response is "mechanicals are better" "mechanicals are good enough" "mechanicals are simpler" etc and most of these have been listed above.

IMHO to get the mechanicals working effectively you have to:
cast iron drums trued to the hubs
woven shoes trued to the drums
brake cross shaft restored
new bushings and the many worn out parts on backing plates replaced
no sloppy linkages on brake rods or clevises
careful adjustment of brake rods

BTW know any local shops who will true drums and arc shoes anymore?

I also haven't seen much in the way of which hydraulics are best. IMHO Ford lockheed brakes are miserable. 46/48s are slightly better than 40/42. I won't use them again that is for sure. They require nearly as much tweeking as mechanicals do to get them to work correctly. A new set of repro lincoln bendix brakes are as good as drum hydraulic brakes get. IMHO with bendix arcing shoes and truing drums aren't necessary with new drums and backing plates. The hot rod guys have this figured out and they aren't much using lockheed brakes anymore as the repro bendix are so good. I labeled a pile of lockheed backing plates as "Ford frisbees" at the Ckickasha swap meet. Got lots of laughs but no sales.

On my 36 woodie I took off a very good set of mechanical brakes and replaced them with disc on the front and new lincoln bendix plates and new drums on the back. I drive it at least once a week in good weather. It stops on a dime and very little to no adjustment is necessary. I may send out the rear end to be converted to modern axles by that hot rod shop in Idaho so I can put disc on the back as well.

Another thing to consider is that having the master cylinder below the wheel cylinders is a PITA. Much better would be the master cylinder installed like in a modern car on the firewall. Then bleeding the brakes would be a breeze.

Here is how: https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes
https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...hydraulics4648

[Jacksonlll]

There is a safety issue with Hyd. brks. If you have a single system, when it fails, and it will, you have nothing to stop you. I saw one Hyd system where they simply applied the Hyd brks when the emergency brk was applied and they had a switch to disable the brk lite switch. Mickey Mouse!!!
A Hyd system must be a dual system for safety.

[Mike V. Florida]

Stock brakes will stop the car just fine. Easier to install as well.

[harleytoprock]

Hydraulic brakes on a occasional used vehicle..
Need I say more?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

Hydraulic brakes on a occasional used vehicle..
Need I say more?

Actually you should say more. If it was an occasional used vehicle I would recommend mechanicals since they do better when not used regularly.

Charlie Stephens

[ursus]

When I got my first Model A in 1984, it had been sitting in a garage for over 5 years with '40 Ford hydraulics that had been installed by the owner in 1967. The pedal was a bit soft, so I bled the system and topped up with new DOT 3 fluid. I drove it for 5 years before selling it and never had any trouble during that time. Call it luck, but I also lived in an area with very low humidity so never had any of the problems resulting from water getting into the lines.

[denis4x4]

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I have three A's with hydraulics and one with mechanicals. Two of the A's were converted to hydraulics 23 and 25 years ago. Every time this subject pops up here, I can't believe the number of people who lack the knowledge on how to install hydraulics on an A correctly. I still feel bad that mine have yet to leak or fail!

[harleytoprock]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Actually you should say more. If it was an occasional used vehicle I would recommend mechanicals since they do better when not used regularly.

Charlie Stephens

I totally agree with you. HTR

[harleytoprock]

My question is, what real benefit is there by converting to hydraulic operated brakes?

[180 a]

I have never seen a brake rod on a model a brake, but I have seen a hydraulic line brake. When that happens you have NO brakes.

[harleytoprock]

Do you mean "I have never seen a brake rod on a model a break, but I have seen a hydraulic line break. When that happens you have NO brakes." ?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by 180 a

I have never seen a brake rod on a model a brake, but I have seen a hydraulic line brake. When that happens you have NO brakes.

Yes, I have had brake rods break. On my AA 280A, I had 3 of the 4 rods break at various times. Had them welded back together, no more problems. (That was a hundred years ago, my first A when I was 14)

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

My question is, what real benefit is there by converting to hydraulic operated brakes?

I'd say they are a benefit when using 35 wheels with radial tires and highway speeds like I used to when I had my mitchell OD installed.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

There is a safety issue with Hyd. brks. If you have a single system, when it fails, and it will, you have nothing to stop you. I saw one Hyd system where they simply applied the Hyd brks when the emergency brk was applied and they had a switch to disable the brk lite switch. Mickey Mouse!!!
A Hyd system must be a dual system for safety.

You mean all the cars from 1939 to 1965 are unsafe? That is a rather emotional opinion.

[2935ford]

Just my 2 cents................
any of the systems need to be the very best parts available......to be used as originally designed.
my question after building all types Lockheed.....bendix and mechanical
I have had great difficulty finding either nos or really good re pop parts for everything I needed.
Almost all of the offshore parts I have had experience with have been questionable and many flat out were wrong and never got used.

Then swedging and arcing......who does this stuff anymore?

I'm not sure where all you folks are finding your "good" parts and service?

[harleytoprock]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

I'd say they are a benefit when using 35 wheels with radial tires and highway speeds like I used to when I had my mitchell OD installed.

So what is the actual benefit?

[harleytoprock]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

You mean all the cars from 1939 to 1965 are unsafe? That is a rather emotional opinion.

I'd say any car with a single hydraulic system is unsafe. They didn't know any better back then. If there were't any safety concerns, cars today would still have single systems.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

So what is the actual benefit?

Haven't done a scientific measurement but IMHO I can stop much faster with modern radial tires on 35 wire wheels and hydraulic brakes than with skinny model a tires and mechanical brakes. There are many more square inches in contract with the road on 195 75 R16 tires than 21 inch bias ply tires. I have experienced better handling with modern tires tires as they won't squeal as easily going around corners. I don't dispute that well tuned mechanical brakes can skid the tires. I'd rather be skidding bigger tires myself.

Mechanical vs hydraulic as always brings out strong opinions on either side.

Didn't spend much time driving around with skinny tires and hydraulic brakes. They sounded unsafe to me as I squealed my tires going around corners at very low speeds. Thought I was going to lose control so I put modern radial tires on and haven't squealed them yet.

[mshmodela]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

My question is, what real benefit is there by converting to hydraulic operated brakes?

In my opinion, the only benefit on a Model A is to require less force from the driver to the shoes --they are power assisted mechanical brakes... Think of it like this, replace the metal rods or hydraulic lines with an linear electric motor that would apply a certain amount of force to the shoes and then to the drums... it could be a joy stick which would use even less force from the driver than hydraulics. Within the drum, it's shoes and the drum --all the same..

[denis4x4]

I have no problem with owners that want to maintain a stock mechanical braking system. However, I do have a problem with some posters that bad mouth hydraulic system with little if any experience. Again, I have A's with both systems and they both are adequate for their specific uses. To the best of my knowledge, I've yet to see anyone here say mechanical brakes are bad. It's a choice that one makes based on usage and experience. Hopefully this will post will get the thread locked!

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

In my opinion, the only benefit on a Model A is to require less force from the driver to the shoes .... Within the drum, it's shoes and the drum --all the same..

And there are work arounds for the pedal pressure on mechanical brakes as well.

Do what you want it's your car. The simple fact that some people refuse to acknowledge is either, in proper working order, will stop your car just fine. As stated above, "Within the drum, it's shoes and the drum --all the same.."

Opening ones minds to accept something different then long held beliefs, is often like trying to crack open a safe.

[700rpm]

You are restoring a relatively rare car, a 1929 54-A. It will have more value in the long run if it is all stock and truly restored. Real restoration takes a lot of thought, care, time, money and hard work. I wouldn't put all the effort into a real restoration and not put it back as close to factory original as possible. I will assume you're interested in excellence. Otherwise, why bother?

BTW, I have owned over 20 Model A's over a span of 54 years. Some were restored, some were refurbished, and some were unrestored. They all have had mechanical brakes, but the first thing I've done in every case is check the brake system and make corrections and adjustments as necessary. I've probably driven something like 100,000+ miles and never had an accident that was caused by the brakes being mechanical.

[inex01]

Originally Posted by Willie Krash

Someone here in the past has already said it, I've never known mechanical brakes to leak..
I think one of the reasons model A and T have defied time is in its simplicity.
Rubber rots, seals, wheel cylinders etc..
What other car can sit 30+ years and you can start it and run it? And it will stop.

I really agree with Willie, My stock brakes work perfectly on both my sedan and roadster and I feel very safe my pedal is solid and the car stops perfectly, Juice brake kits I believe come with a single master cylinder and there is no backup if the seal blows you have zero brakes, I like the pedal to the metal aspect of Henry's mechanical brakes

[big job]

JUICE BRAKES should be out law'ed. If it aint got mechanicals or air brakes I don't
want it........................................

[al's28/33]

Keep the original mechanical brakes.

[Jim Brierley]

Hyd. brakes were designed for much heavier cars than the A is, that should tell you something. I use silicone fluid and they have never given trouble in the last 57 years. No pulling or fading. I've ridden in cars with mechanicals installed and adjusted by someone that works on A's daily, and swears by mechanicals. They are not near as good as my hydraulics. Mechanicals need to be done VERY RIGHT in order to be good.

[mrtexas]

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Originally Posted by big job

JUICE BRAKES should be out law'ed. If it aint got mechanicals or air brakes I don't
want it........................................

Can I get them on my 2008 Honda Ridgeline? An upgrade perhaps?

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Hyd. brakes were designed for much heavier cars than the A is, that should tell you something. I use silicone fluid and they have never given trouble in the last 57 years. No pulling or fading. I've ridden in cars with mechanicals installed and adjusted by someone that works on A's daily, and swears by mechanicals. They are not near as good as my hydraulics. Mechanicals need to be done VERY RIGHT in order to be good.

Roger on all that.
We are right, the world is all wrong.

[V4F]

no offense , but you guys are just blowing smoke . lots of repeats with nothing gained . opinions are like belly buttons , we all have one ! short version , owner preference .................. no cookie cutters here ...............

[hardtimes]

Hey Mr. Texas,
Very well thought out and explained in accurate, practical application terms , IMO!
I will add that I just put an entire Lincoln hydraulic brake system on my '30 roadster.
I debated long and hard whether to do this, as the mechanical system on my A was totally restored with added upgrade of cast drums. All restored or better parts ! Second reason for procrastination was the PRICE ! In the end, I sold my entire mecanicals system to a 'restorer' who was excited to see/get quality system for his project, and I got $ for my project ...quid pro quo !
All the talk here about hacking/chopping up brake pedals, battery box , etc, etc...well I had NONE of that. Installation was straight forward and end result is a clean looking/operating system. I asked a lot of questions , prior to making the decision and preforming this installation. Mostly questioned the USE of SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID ! Man, did I run the 'gauntlet' of yes/no ! Now, my experience tells me that MOST replies on any subject come from guys who have never been there and/or done that ! Just parroting what indoctrination that they have encountered on a subject and not qualifying it as such heresy..bummer as this gossip throws a wrench into all, IMO.
Anyway, I opted to use synthetic brake fluid and am happy about that decision...for practical reasons, mostly that that fluid does NOT attract and/or absorb water as 'regular' brake fluid does , especially if it sets in an unused brake system. The water retaining property, which causes rusted and stuck cylinder parts...is the ONLY factual/real gripe that is spot on regarding the use of hydraulic brakes , IMO. Now since this is not the case with synthetic fluid use, I have no qualms with hydraulic system otherwise. Yeah, my A sits unused for long periods of time...as life gets in the way. However, I expect no rusty mess when I do eventually reuse my car.
I've driven for over 50 years and THE one thing that matters to me, is how well does this vehicle stop. Think safety here. You can get a car with a dead engine going down hill , very fast ! But, how well does it stop ? Now throw in an emergency/panic stop....and how well do brakes perform. If you do not consider these things (ostrich syndrome ) , make sure that your car / life insurance is updated when driving a vehicle. Now, the trend is to go faster, if for no other reason, than to keep up with legal limits and to keep from getting run over by 'modern' drivers/vehicles. So, you've hopped up that A with hidden upgrades to make it go real fast ! How have you compensated for making your brakes to slow the A real fast ?

I've tested out both my braking systems , on the same A. Tried to simulate panic situation and stop. Of course you have an advantage here that you will NOT have in most real life emergency panic stops. How many of you have done this with your driver ...with either system ?

This long winded thread and the many other long winded threads on same subject, IMO, will not sway many one way or other. Yup, 'it was an accident' , not my brakes that got me into this wreck. Safety is paramount and each driver has to contend with results of actions and/or non actions.

Mr. Texas would you happen to have any help/instructions on how you accomplished your disc brake installation on an A

[MikeK]

I was once asked what kind of brakes would be best when one of those jerks in a 'tuner' car weaves through traffic and cuts in front of you. My reply: 12 gauge. Great stopping power.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by MikeK

I was once asked what kind of brakes would be best when one of those jerks in a 'tuner' car weaves through traffic and cuts in front of you. My reply: 12 gauge. Great stopping power.

10 gauge is even better. Think big.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Pete

10 gauge is even better. Think big.

'think big'...so true the impression that a 10 guage Ithaca gun (goosegun) makes when seen/used from either end !

[Pete]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

'think big'...so true the impression that a 10 guage Ithaca gun (goosegun) makes when seen/used from either end !

10 recoil isn't bad compared to other stuff.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Mr. Texas,
Very well thought out and explained in accurate, practical application terms , IMO

Mr. Texas would you happen to have any help/instructions on how you accomplished your disc brake installation on an A

Need 42 square back spindles and can't use wire wheels. Oops just discovered I cut off part of the spring perch on the driver's side to make the discs work. Will be replacing that part to put mechanicals back.

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes

[ian Simpson]

I have had single line juice brakes on vehicles since the 60's, never had one fail. I did have both lines fail simultaneously in a Plymouth Voyageur when driving into my garage. Very exciting!

IMHO any well installed, maintained brake will work on a light car like a Model A.

Ian

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

I've tested out both my braking systems , on the same A. Tried to simulate panic situation and stop. Of course you have an advantage here that you will NOT have in most real life emergency panic stops. How many of you have done this with your driver ...with either system ?

I live in South Florida I don't have to "simulate", panic stopping. My mechanicals will lock up the wheels.

[montanafordman]

Another vote for mechanicals. They look right, and since I've restored mine properly I can lay down rubber and lock up the wheels in my car.

[pklarkin]

Thanks very much for your insights all! As a new comer to the Model A and to this forum, I really appreciate the insights. I'm going to stick with the mechanical brakes for now and see how things go. Thanks again!

[roblesterjr04]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

If the wheels can be locked up with the mechanicals, hydraulics are not going to improve your braking. Once the wheels lock your braking diminishes. The only pro to hydraulic I can see is maybe less effort (and maybe less maintenance?).

I found the mechanical brakes in my Fordor to be easier to operate than the hydraulic brakes in a friends little MG.

You might think "Yeah, but an MG is not a ford..."

Well, you're correct, however, its a tiny little car and I had to really press the pedal down to stop, whereas my 29' Fordor has very responsive mechanicals.

Regardless, Mechanical brakes have a much smaller chance of leaking fluid...

[Allanw]

I have no qualms about either system...

However: converting to hydraulic is a lot of work, why not keep it easy and stay mechanical? It's "Normal", so well known, and the parts are standard to replace.

We fitted "Flat Head Teds" brake floaters (Actually, I did the fronts, never got to the backs!) It makes a HUGE difference. Setting up the mechanical brakes is actually pretty easy, but the floaters make it even easier, and more "maintainance free", as the shoes self centre - I didn't even arc the shoes (they were close), but they wore in very quickly with the self centering, both side to side, and up and down.

On the 21" firestones, I can stop our 29 with both fronts locked, fast enough to make myself feel ill. Don't have to push really hard either - probably similar to any unassisted car with a good setup (about the same as my 70's VW Beetle with stock euro disk brakes anyway). I'm sure once I fit the new shoes, and the floaters, all four locked will be easy to acheive too.

Staying mechanical is much less work than setting up all the hydraulics, and still having to do a certain amount of shoe adjusting etc anyway.

I'd only go hydraulic if you were planning DISK brakes, and really good modern tyres.

[Pat Martone]

I've noticed that they make a disc brake kit for the Model T, and wonder why a disc brake kit is not available for the Model A?
I love my fully restored mechanical brakes but just wonder why disc brakes are not an option for the Model A.

[mrtexas]

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes

[Will N]

Originally Posted by Pat Martone

I've noticed that they make a disc brake kit for the Model T, and wonder why a disc brake kit is not available for the Model A?
I love my fully restored mechanical brakes but just wonder why disc brakes are not an option for the Model A.

I think that it's because properly restored original mechanical brakes on a Model A are more than adequate for the job. Properly restored original brakes on a Model T are barely adequate. The "brakes" consist of a band in the transmission that act to slow the driveshaft. The brakes on the rear wheels of a T are parking brakes only.

[Will N]

Originally Posted by pklarkin

Thanks very much for your insights all! As a new comer to the Model A and to this forum, I really appreciate the insights. I'm going to stick with the mechanical brakes for now and see how things go. Thanks again!

Good choice. You'll find that there are two types of Model A Guys (three if you count the hot rodders): 1) Those who appreciate and maintain the original features of a Model A. 2) Those who are always trying to "improve" the Model A.

IMHO, if you want a car with modern features like hydraulic brakes, overdrives, high comression heads etc., well, buy a modern car! But if you want a Model A, then dag nab it, keep it a Model A.