The Ford Barn

JoeOrangejuice · 05-11-2020, 04:56 PM

Here it is ten years later, 2020, and I found your post about the Transpark Ignition, Do you still have it in? I will copy and paste my commentary. I think the outfit that sold it to me was having complaints about it as he was short tempered with me the several times I phoned. Plus, they no longer sell the product.

I have had a “Transpark Universal Model “A” Ford Ignition” I bought the ignition ignition in my Model A in 2010. I am sure not knocking it because before installing the Transpark ignition, starting the car was a chore, now ZOOM! However, I have had some questions about it from the get-go. I had to file down the bump on the top of the rotor quite a lot to get the cap to be able to go on. Occasionally, I hear a tap tap tap from inside the distributor as the rotor spins. It has been about 2,000 easy miles and it starts great and runs very well. I was reading a Les Andrews book about Ignition Timing and he mentions checking the gaps between the tip of the rotor and the distributor body contact points. I did this and noticed that the tip of the rotor is riding a bit high and not spinning squarely past the distributor body contact points about 3/4 of the tip passes over the upper part of the contact points. I have made a drawing to show what I mean. Here is a question: Does the tip of your rotor spin squarely past the contact points or does it ride high like mine? I see that nu-Rex no longer sells this product and I am interested in other people's experiences with their electronic ignitions. Again, I am not knocking the product.

Chuck Sea/Tac · 05-11-2020, 05:10 PM

It would be better if the rotor was square on the body contacts, but obviously it’s been working satisfactorily. You’re drawing didn’t show up by the way. I’d be concerned with the intermittent clicking noise in the distributor. Is your body a tight fit on the distributor? A loose fit can cause unequal gaps on the rotor to body, plus the rotor could be ticking one of the body studs.

barkleydave · 05-12-2020, 09:14 AM

I have several Pertronix Ignitors (FS ignitions) in stock dist. I have one running perfectly for the past 20 years have not had to touch it...

Some folks do not like them and that is their choice of course. I have installed several in other vehicles. The key is a clean 6 or 12 volts to the ignitor. I run a seperate dedicated circuit fused directly to the battery. Do not run through any other curcuit. Run to switch. Follow the instructions and make sure you have a clean seperate ground wire. Modules do not like voltage spikes from generators or alternators.

stevemclark · 05-12-2020, 10:04 AM

Try your fuel flow.Turn gas off then take the plug out of the fuel bowl to drain what ever is in there into a clear container of at least 8 oz,look at it and see if it all gas and not rust or water or anything but gas. This next part is from scriptures 2-10 to 2-11 , " Model A ford Troubleshooting & Diagnostics" by Les Andrews.With a larger container under the gas line removed from the carburetor turn the gas on and see how fast it flows out It should flow out 2 or 3 inches from the line.Low flow can come from restricted/clogged; line, shut off valve,fuel line,sediment bowl or a bad vent in the gas cap causing a vacuum lock.

05-11-2020, 04:56 PM	#21
JoeOrangejuice Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2020 Posts: 5	Re: TRANSPARK UNIVERSAL Ignition System problems Here it is ten years later, 2020, and I found your post about the Transpark Ignition, Do you still have it in? I will copy and paste my commentary. I think the outfit that sold it to me was having complaints about it as he was short tempered with me the several times I phoned. Plus, they no longer sell the product. I have had a “Transpark Universal Model “A” Ford Ignition” I bought the ignition ignition in my Model A in 2010. I am sure not knocking it because before installing the Transpark ignition, starting the car was a chore, now ZOOM! However, I have had some questions about it from the get-go. I had to file down the bump on the top of the rotor quite a lot to get the cap to be able to go on. Occasionally, I hear a tap tap tap from inside the distributor as the rotor spins. It has been about 2,000 easy miles and it starts great and runs very well. I was reading a Les Andrews book about Ignition Timing and he mentions checking the gaps between the tip of the rotor and the distributor body contact points. I did this and noticed that the tip of the rotor is riding a bit high and not spinning squarely past the distributor body contact points about 3/4 of the tip passes over the upper part of the contact points. I have made a drawing to show what I mean. Here is a question: Does the tip of your rotor spin squarely past the contact points or does it ride high like mine? I see that nu-Rex no longer sells this product and I am interested in other people's experiences with their electronic ignitions. Again, I am not knocking the product.

05-11-2020, 05:10 PM	#22
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,354	Re: TRANSPARK UNIVERSAL Ignition System problems It would be better if the rotor was square on the body contacts, but obviously it’s been working satisfactorily. You’re drawing didn’t show up by the way. I’d be concerned with the intermittent clicking noise in the distributor. Is your body a tight fit on the distributor? A loose fit can cause unequal gaps on the rotor to body, plus the rotor could be ticking one of the body studs.

05-12-2020, 09:14 AM	#23
barkleydave Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 502	Re: TRANSPARK UNIVERSAL Ignition System problems I have several Pertronix Ignitors (FS ignitions) in stock dist. I have one running perfectly for the past 20 years have not had to touch it... Some folks do not like them and that is their choice of course. I have installed several in other vehicles. The key is a clean 6 or 12 volts to the ignitor. I run a seperate dedicated circuit fused directly to the battery. Do not run through any other curcuit. Run to switch. Follow the instructions and make sure you have a clean seperate ground wire. Modules do not like voltage spikes from generators or alternators.

05-12-2020, 10:04 AM	#24
stevemclark Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Central Shenandoah Valley,Waynesboro,Va. Posts: 93	Re: TRANSPARK UNIVERSAL Ignition System problems Try your fuel flow.Turn gas off then take the plug out of the fuel bowl to drain what ever is in there into a clear container of at least 8 oz,look at it and see if it all gas and not rust or water or anything but gas. This next part is from scriptures 2-10 to 2-11 , " Model A ford Troubleshooting & Diagnostics" by Les Andrews.With a larger container under the gas line removed from the carburetor turn the gas on and see how fast it flows out It should flow out 2 or 3 inches from the line.Low flow can come from restricted/clogged; line, shut off valve,fuel line,sediment bowl or a bad vent in the gas cap causing a vacuum lock.