1934 Pickup rear axle change to straight spring fit?

[Ronnieroadster]

Knowing the 34 pickup has the curving spring and matching cross member has anyone tried to put a 1940 banjo rear with the straight spring into the stock 34 cross member? The latter rear has longer spring mount arms so using the 34 original curving spring on the latter axle will change the wheel base and tire location in the fenders to be incorrect. Do I need to modify the cross member or will the straight spring clear towards the rear of the stock cross memeber?

[bobH]

I'm sure that it's been done, many times. Yes, wheelbase changes a little - you do the math - maybe 3/4 inch?? I tried to figure center-of-axle, to center-of-spring dimmensions, and came up with numbers like 7-1/2 vs 6-3/4. Don't trust my numbers - check for yourself. My measurements are 'suspect'.
As for fitting the spring in the crossmember, it's been discussed here previously. Some of us have ground the spring a little (one leaf at a time) to fit the crossmember. And, a few have modified the crossmember to fit the spring. For me, grinding the spring a little narrower is the easier way. (Makita - goes pretty quick)
JMO

[Flowmeister]

I did exactly that.
I didn't want to modify my cross member.
had to grind both fore and aft edges of the spring for it to sit up
in there comfortably. Lot's of grinding.
I called it The Black Snot Project.

[Flowmeister]

Here is a picture still in the grinding, pre finishing stage.

[Jack 34pu]

Why the '40 rear and all that work? I have the stock 34 and '40 backing plates with hyd brakes. It works very well.

[34fivewindow]

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Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Knowing the 34 pickup has the curving spring and matching cross member has anyone tried to put a 1940 banjo rear with the straight spring into the stock 34 cross member? The latter rear has longer spring mount arms so using the 34 original curving spring on the latter axle will change the wheel base and tire location in the fenders to be incorrect. Do I need to modify the cross member or will the straight spring clear towards the rear of the stock cross memeber?

Ron, I modified the 40 spring, when putting a 40 rearend in a 34 coupe. Your also going to have to shorten the driveshaft an torque tube, on mine it was 3/4 of an inch. I've also seen the cross member modified, to fit the 40 spring, a much cleaner job, than grinding the spring.

[Ronnieroadster]

Thanks to everyone for the ideas. I knew I would get some good info from you guys. The spring grinding is interesting might be the best solution since the truck is nicely detailed not sure if I want to cut the cross member but I wont rule it out. Going to add a C-4 automatic and change the R&P to a 325 ratio also going to an open drive. The 59A engine will pull that gear perfectly with the automatic.

[my4dv8]

We are just in the process of getting back the running gear of a 34 pickup we built many years ago. The rear was 35,36 .the spring was also 35,36 and I ground the heck out of it with. 9" grinder to allow it to fit in the curved 34 rear x member.
I think the original 34 spring is shorter so would not match the 35 rear, maybe.

[PeteVS]

Here's a link to an earlier post regarding a '34 with a V8 driveshaft and a 4 cylinder engine. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+end&showall=1
My experience shows that substituting a later rear, straight spring and a torque tube / drive shaft that's correct for the car will put the wheels where they belong AND the TOP of the spring will wind up where it's supposed to be. Only problem is altering the spring to fit the curved crossmember or altering the crossmember to fit the straight spring. IMHO!