At wits' end

[FlatheadTed]

Spark plugs ,Now with the fuel we have or old fuel , Lots of cold starts and minimal driving will put a coating on the plugs that mimics a dizy problem or carb problem ,29 dodge had this, removed the carb fitted a known good model A one, still ran rough ,changed plugs to another new lot ,Bingo .Ted

[Reds34]

Ronnieroadster,

I was actually thinking of contacting you about this issue because you are somewhat close. Maybe I should just pick up the engine and bringing it elsewhere. I totally agree that someone that KNOWS flatheads would have things differently, but hindsight is 20/20. He has mentioned that he does not want to work on flatheads any more.

Guys,

Thank you for all the insight. The plugs are new to the rebuild, but I may try another set.

[tubman]

It may have nothing to do with your problem, but back in my snowmobiling days (2- cycle), we would run into this problem on a regular basis; the plugs would look pristine, but a new set would set everything straight. We'd go over the plugs, clean them and triy to use them, but once they were bad, forget it.

[Ronnieroadster]

Send me PM and I can send you my contact info. I've certainly had my hands in many 21 stud engine's.
Ronnieroadster

[FlatheadTed]

Red s I suggest that your original problem is maybe still there ,by way of the same carb or a switched out one with crud in it cannot see how a broken guide could do that unless it was 80% gone ,you say it runs ok at higher revs , if it smokes out the exhaust then it could be a float issue or if it spits back out the carb then its lean condition ,Vacuum leak (As Brian said ) or dirt ,unless carb is of a good running motor ,get a third carb ,Ted


Qaute
I was driving the truck going up a slight incline and shortly after I downshifted, the truck started running on 4 cylinders. Come to find out, 2 of the valve guides broke ( I'm assuming) causing the issue with how the truck was running.

[Reds34]

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Ronnieroadster,

Thank you, I will send you a PM.

Flathead Ted,

I had the carb (a different one) rebuilt while the engine was getting rebuilt. A fellow Fordbarn member came over with the carb off his '34 pheaton to try with no change.

Red

[FlatheadTed]

I wouldn't think copper spray would be ideal ,I prefer a Gap filler type Goo,OK ,you say it sounds like it has a big Cam ,You can make that behavior by pulling the choke,but you get smoke . Question What happens if you Blip the throttle does it take the Gas or spit back through the carb ,, Ted

[Reds34]

Flathead Ted,

If I blipped the throttle, it would take the gas. I haven't looked down the carb while it was running or while I was giving it throttle, but it never seemed to not take the gas or not take the gas. What kind of gasket "gap filler" do you use on your gaskets?

Thank you guys,

Red

[FlatheadTed]

Gasket Goo, it would depend on how smooth it is people have different choices .I would likely use a silicone base one ,Home depo Clear .at i dial pull the throttle 3/4 up does it rev or hesitate,

[Brian]

My opinion...do not use any of that stuff mentioned above...reason being, you know when you apply that stuff and when you torque down the fastenings, how that stuff squeezes out between the components and gasket?- well it also squeezes out internally into the engine and, if an inlet manifold, into the ports. How much has gone into the engine? who know's? but it's in there.
Now, if you follow my advice and use grease, you'll witness the same phenomenon; squeezing out of the joint. Thing is though, any grease that squeezes into the engine is easily assimilated into the engine oil or fuel air mixture and cause no harm. Additionally, it allows the surfaces, as they're bolted down, to slide across the gasket faces. Grease forms a perfect seal, also, eases disassembly and most times even allows the gasket to be re-used.
My opinion, take it for what it's worth.

[FlatheadTed]

Nothing wrong with grease ,The main thing is you find out whats wrong with your Motor .I saw Brian trying to help so I hope I didn't interfere . Ted

[tubman]

I will admit that, when it comes to gaskets, I am a "greaser" and have avoided fancy sealers (except for leaking head studs and bolts) since I became one and hae done very well.

[aussie merc]

i think this needs to be pulled apart but i wouldnt be surprised to find the valve stem seals damaged you know them little cows on the outside of the guides ..when they leak they leak bigtime and can be near impossible find

[Karl]

Originally Posted by tubman

I will admit that, when it comes to gaskets, I am a "greaser" and have avoided fancy sealers (except for leaking head studs and bolts) since I became one and hae done very well.

I agree -The only time Iuse the goop is if I'm bolting together wildly out of whack surfaces For example i used a bit of it when I reassembled my 1910 Hupmobile engine . After 111 years nothing fitted together with close tolerance and the goop gave us a good seal with out the risk of breaking something as we torqued it up. I could have remachined each surface but with zero spare parts and old castings I prefered not to take the risk of machining anything