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12-09-2018, 07:11 PM | #41 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Thanks Brent for your insight. I see from the print that the magic number is
4.619-4.624. I don't have a DRO on the mill but I could use the co-ax indicator to find the center of the backing plate and then go from there. |
12-09-2018, 07:52 PM | #42 | |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Quote:
interesting analysis. if you had to guess, given that speed in production was critical to this Company, don't you think there was some simple jig that held the ear plate in position vis a vis the upper brake shoe wedge holder? To crank these backing plates out speedily, it could not have been a complex process. |
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12-09-2018, 08:53 PM | #43 | ||
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Quote:
There you go. It is never difficult (-DRO or not) when you have the measurement for you. Many quality pieces were manufactured way before a digital readout ever became available. Quote:
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12-09-2018, 09:29 PM | #44 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
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12-11-2018, 06:46 PM | #45 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Interesting, almost all the opinions in this thread are based on either a decent, or in some cases an extensive knowledge of this system. I stumbled on a YouTube video last night of a Master Model A restorer giving a seminar on rebuilding brakes. It is amazing that some folks with such little knowledge can profess to be experts. The guy didn't even know the names or the parts!
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12-11-2018, 06:51 PM | #46 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
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12-11-2018, 08:18 PM | #47 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
All said and done, what is the big deal of all these precision dimensions after a couple hundred miles?
John |
12-11-2018, 09:22 PM | #48 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
After the brakes wear in a bit it will be time to tighten and adjust the adjusting wedge . Model A brakes are not perfect , mostly because they aren't full floating but work about as well as drum brakes could be expected to work when properly set up and adjusted .
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12-12-2018, 12:29 PM | #49 | |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
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John, a valid argument can be made that nothing would change if proper parts are used. So often, cheap replacement parts which are manufactured from poor-quality metals give a bad reputation, but can you name any hard-parts that were worn severely out of tolerance after a few hundred miles, --or even a few thousand miles? I cannot think of any but maybe I am not thinking correctly. . |
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12-20-2018, 10:59 AM | #50 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
At the risk of beating this thing to death a couple more thoughts. As everyone agrees the last step is centering the shoes. If you put in new rails and they show to be too low, did you gain anything over welding and grinding? They would still have to be built up?
Or another thought, if the rails are too high they will prevent the shoes from making circumferential contact. But if they are a couple thousandths low, it would seem that they would float up to self center. There is nothing keeping them from doing so.
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12-20-2018, 11:23 AM | #51 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Wow what a wealth of opinions. I have a 29 std roadster I have been working on for a couple of years. Last year had a cracked axle so I took everything off up to the engine. Replaced the pressure plate and clutch disk, rebuilt transmission, Ujoint and rear end. Took rear spring apart, sandblasted and painted it, used graphite paint between leaves. Got new cast iron drums and new shoes. Put all back together and everything EXCEPT the brakes worked like a champ. I have been tweeking, adjusting, pulling apart and re-assembling for over a month now and still can't get them working the way I think the should. Car on jack stands as I write this and yesterday went to adjust the right rear and it turns forward for about 1/4 revolution it then hits something and comes to a complete stop. Can revolve it backwards many turns and everything is fine but the minute I spin it forward it revolves a short distance then the dastardly "clunk" and abrupt stop. Think I am going to quite working on it for the holidays and maybe Santa will leave me a note under the tree with the solution!!!!....lol. They are so much fun to work on most of the time but this has me pulling out what hair I have. Don't know if anyone else has ever had this problem but feel better just spouting off. Merry Christmas to all!
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12-20-2018, 11:35 AM | #52 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
You've all convinced me. Going to stick with hydraulics. I can't weld and don't own a milling machine. Too many places to have failure on such an important function.
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12-20-2018, 12:18 PM | #53 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
At least with mechanical brakes you don't have to worry about master cylinders, wheel cylinders, and brake lines leaking...
TerryO |
12-20-2018, 08:59 PM | #54 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
WE were talking about this subject at the shop today, my question is; Were Model A brakes and suspension really designed for 60/40 braking? Was having the front brakes come on first a Model A thing or was that back dated from the V8 era? Seems to me they were made for the rears to come on first. Wouldn't that put a lot more force on the flywheel housing then what it was meant for?
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12-20-2018, 11:28 PM | #55 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
Do any modern cars or trucks use Mechanical Brakes? Just curious.
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12-21-2018, 03:52 AM | #56 | |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
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Does any modern car or truck use gravity feed fuel delivery? Does any modern car or truck use a non-synchronized transmission? Does any modern car or truck use one tailight? Does any modern truck or car use an updraft carburetor? Does any modern car or truck use a wooden floorboard? I can keep going for quite a while, but I really don't see the destination. Maybe I am missing something?? |
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12-22-2018, 09:18 AM | #57 |
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Re: Weld and grind roller tracks
There really is no reason for hydraulic brakes..
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