distributor siezed

[Seano]

So I'm getting my grampa's ford model A. he died in 1998. I actually got the car running in 2001 but the car has been sitting since then. I tried to fire it up today but it didn't have any spark. while we were cranking it checking for spark, we noticed the rotor on the distributor not spinning. We tried to remove the distributor but it seemed to be frozen. any ideas on removing it? do I need to pull the head? should it just come out by removing the bolt located below it on the side of the block/head?

[Seano]

Here is a picture of the car. New tires and a wash.

[700rpm]

Nice car. A couple causes for rotor not turning even if the engine is cranking: stripped timing gear. Stripped distributor/oil pump drive gear. Time consuming jobs, but relatively easy.

[CarlG]

Bill Stipe makes a real nifty tool that works wonders on pulling stuck distributors.

[Seano]

Is it possible that the shaft is seized? We couldn't get the distributor to move at all. I do t know if it was ever lubed through the little hole with the spring loaded cap on the bottom side of the distributor. We are guessing here. We think the shaft seized somehow then broke. I'm hoping worse case scenario pull the head, get seized shaft out. Replace broken shaft. Reassemble. Any suggestions in just roving a frozen distributor?

[P.S.]

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Guessing that the distributor shaft seized, then that caused the timing gear to be stripped. That's usually how it happens.

[Seano]

If this is the case, will this mean a total engine overhall?

[mshmodela]

Very nice car...

[Bob C]

I would pull the spark plugs and look in the hole as some one turns
the engine over and see if the valves are opening and closing, if they
not then the timing gear is stripped.

Bob

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Seano

If this is the case, will this mean a total engine overhall?

No not necessary to overhaul total engine if it is not the gear on the crank shaft. Others on this site may give you better info. Bob C gives good advise to start with.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Seano

If this is the case, will this mean a total engine overhall?

No. Calm down. As I said above, whatever is causing this is probably a simple fix.

[Jeff/Illinois]

VERY nice Coupe it's a beauty!!

Do as Bob says that is a good place to start.

[Bruce Adams]

Might I suggest you call for a catalog from Brattons and from Snyders as well as purchasing Les Andrews MODEL A MECHANICS HANDBOOK, and a reprint of the operators instruction manual. The distributor is connected underneath, using two stainless shafts, either or both might be rusted in. The catalogs, also on line, will give you a diagram of what you are dealing with.

[Jwilli]

if you remove the valve cover, you can get a good view of the dist shaft.

[jax55]

OK, just asking here: You asked about removing the screw and nut under the distributor..did you? If not, that is the first thing to do, then try to remove the distributor.
Once you get it out, you will have a better idea of what is happening..but do what Bob said as well before you pull the distributor .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Simply remove the timing pin and insert it backwards, just as though you were going to find the cam gear detent. Push the pin in while cranking the engine, and you can feel if the cam gear is moving. If the cam gear is turning, then remove the valve cover and see if the tang on the distributor shaft broke due to lack of lubrication in the distributor oiler. If it's broken, then remove the lock nut and setscrew on the side of the head, then carefully pull up on the distributor. Be sure to squirt penetrating oil in the setscrew hole and on top of the head at the distributor hole. If it's still stuck then buy or borrow the puller tool shown above.

If the distributor shaft is broken, then order new bushings and shaft and replace them, or you can buy the housing with the new bushings and shaft already in place. Also replace the lower shaft if it's badly worn or rust pitted. Use antiseize on the new distributor where it fits into the head.

[Terry, NJ]

I would think that the tab/tang on the dist. shaft would break first, before the gear would strip. This happened to a friend's Mod A . Keep those dist. shafts oiled! Removing a stuck one, saturate with Kroil, WD40 etc. Or a homade mix of acetone and ATF (Auto. Trans. Fluid) This is one the best loosening fluids around. Take the set/lock screw out of the head use this hole for an access. Any tapping of the dist. body should be with an aluminum or brass drift, don't use steel! Don't try to turn the dist. body in the hole. It Must be lifted for the first 1/4" to get it clear of the locating pin. Any attempts to twist, turn, rotate it will damage it.
Terry

[brito36]

I use never seize between the distributor housing and head. I didn't have the nifty tool that is now available and broke the distributor casting trying to remove it. With Never seize being used, I never again had a hard time removing the distributor casting from the head. I never used that nifty tool again...

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I grind off the locating dowel on my distributor, so if it ever seizes, I can rotate the whole body to break it loose. The distributor body can be located by EYEBALL. I grind a sharp point on the distributor lock screw, so's it don't SLIP! Do as you wish, but it wurks fer me!
Bill W.

[CarlG]

The title to this thread always makes me think it refers to some sort of drug bust!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by CarlG

The title to this thread always makes me think it refers to some sort of drug bust!

We wouldn't have drug problems, if they HUNG THE EVIL SOB's, IMMEDIATELY!
Bill W.