The Ford Barn

gearheadbill · 04-16-2019, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38bill

FWIW: For the return spring anchor I drilled and tapped for a bolt inline with the throwout bearing carrier and parallel with the shaft. Drilled a small hole for the end of the spring and bolted it in with some locktight. Just cut of the hex head and your good to go.

In my plans to do something better than what was there. Yours is a very simple good idea. Thanks! Since I'm replacing the front snout/bearing retainer anyway...piece of cake, as they say.

Flathead Fever · 04-17-2019, 04:10 PM

When you install the trans back in leave the top off, disable the ignition and crank the engine with the clutch pushed in. The input shaft should not be turning. If it is the clutch is not releasing all the way or the input shaft is binding in the pilot bearing or hitting the back of the crank. Check it before you waste all that time putting the rest of it back together. You can also put in gear, push the clutch in and turn the output shaft and see if it feels like the clutch is not releasing or something is binding.

I have been burned so many times putting clutches in at work that I learned to make sure they feel right before filling them with gear oil, bolting in the cross member, driveshaft, shifter and floor mat and then finding out something is not right.

gearheadbill · 04-17-2019, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

When you install the trans back in leave the top off, disable the ignition and crank the engine with the clutch pushed in. The input shaft should not be turning. If it is the clutch is not releasing all the way or the input shaft is binding in the pilot bearing or hitting the back of the crank. Check it before you waste all that time putting the rest of it back together. You can also put in gear, push the clutch in and turn the output shaft and see if it feels like the clutch is not releasing or something is binding.

I have been burned so many times putting clutches in at work that I learned to make sure they feel right before filling them with gear oil, bolting in the cross member, driveshaft, shifter and floor mat and then finding out something is not right.

more great advice. Thanks

jimvette59 · 04-18-2019, 03:07 PM

I just reread your first statement and noticed that you said the input shaft measures about 7" and your combined bell housings etc. measures about 8". That doesn't make sense. Will the inputshaft even reach the crankshaft bushing/bearing ?
Was every thing just waddling around in there ???

gearheadbill · 04-18-2019, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimvette59

I just reread your first statement and noticed that you said the input shaft measures about 7" and your combined bell housings etc. measures about 8". That doesn't make sense. Will the inputshaft even reach the crankshaft bushing/bearing ?
Was every thing just waddling around in there ???

The back of the crank has a deep recess of at least an inch.

gearheadbill · 04-22-2019, 12:34 PM

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Just a quick update. Thanks again for all the advice. It's been very helpful.

I was PM'd by Krylon32. The adapter kit is one of his units. He advised me that one of the main problems with what I am experiencing here is the selection/use of the wrong PPlate/clutch disc. He recommends the use of a LONG style PPlate, rather than the B&B style I currently have. He is supplying me with some replacement parts and I have ordered a new 10" Long PPlate without the counterweights from Fort Wayne Clutch and
Driveline. Krylon32 had no responsibility to help me but has really gone the extra mile.

Also I have replaced the front bearing retainer (the T/O bearing rides on this part) with a new GM replacement and have made a bearing return spring gizmo as 38bill shows in his post.

Nothing really fixed yet; waiting for parts. But I will keep updating this thread 'til I have a working clutch. Thanks again!

Krylon32 · 04-22-2019, 03:18 PM

Bill: You haven't responded to my private messages. I'd like to send you the parts no charge but I need your address. Gary at Cornhusker

gearheadbill · 05-15-2019, 11:44 AM

Hopefully this is the final report. With a lot of help from Krylon32, got all the correct parts installed. He has been super to help me go the right direction. Thanks!

After running the new setup, I realized that there was also some malfunctioning in the clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder linkages. Also found that the installed pedal doesn't have quite the mechanical advantage that I would like. Long story shortened, I fooled around with all this, re-did some things etc.. WORKS GREAT!

Thanks for everyones input. All very helpful.

04-17-2019, 04:10 PM	#22
Flathead Fever Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Yucaipa, CA Posts: 1,095	Re: Wonky clutch release fork? When you install the trans back in leave the top off, disable the ignition and crank the engine with the clutch pushed in. The input shaft should not be turning. If it is the clutch is not releasing all the way or the input shaft is binding in the pilot bearing or hitting the back of the crank. Check it before you waste all that time putting the rest of it back together. You can also put in gear, push the clutch in and turn the output shaft and see if it feels like the clutch is not releasing or something is binding. I have been burned so many times putting clutches in at work that I learned to make sure they feel right before filling them with gear oil, bolting in the cross member, driveshaft, shifter and floor mat and then finding out something is not right.

04-18-2019, 03:07 PM	#24
jimvette59 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Perry OH Posts: 1,330	Re: Wonky clutch release fork? I just reread your first statement and noticed that you said the input shaft measures about 7" and your combined bell housings etc. measures about 8". That doesn't make sense. Will the inputshaft even reach the crankshaft bushing/bearing ? Was every thing just waddling around in there ???

04-22-2019, 12:34 PM	#26
gearheadbill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Snohomish, WA Posts: 401	Re: Wonky clutch release fork? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Just a quick update. Thanks again for all the advice. It's been very helpful. I was PM'd by Krylon32. The adapter kit is one of his units. He advised me that one of the main problems with what I am experiencing here is the selection/use of the wrong PPlate/clutch disc. He recommends the use of a LONG style PPlate, rather than the B&B style I currently have. He is supplying me with some replacement parts and I have ordered a new 10" Long PPlate without the counterweights from Fort Wayne Clutch and Driveline. Krylon32 had no responsibility to help me but has really gone the extra mile. Also I have replaced the front bearing retainer (the T/O bearing rides on this part) with a new GM replacement and have made a bearing return spring gizmo as 38bill shows in his post. Nothing really fixed yet; waiting for parts. But I will keep updating this thread 'til I have a working clutch. Thanks again!

04-22-2019, 03:18 PM	#27
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,482	Re: Wonky clutch release fork? Bill: You haven't responded to my private messages. I'd like to send you the parts no charge but I need your address. Gary at Cornhusker

05-15-2019, 11:44 AM	#28
gearheadbill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Snohomish, WA Posts: 401	Re: Wonky clutch release fork? Hopefully this is the final report. With a lot of help from Krylon32, got all the correct parts installed. He has been super to help me go the right direction. Thanks! After running the new setup, I realized that there was also some malfunctioning in the clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder linkages. Also found that the installed pedal doesn't have quite the mechanical advantage that I would like. Long story shortened, I fooled around with all this, re-did some things etc.. WORKS GREAT! Thanks for everyones input. All very helpful.