Shock Absorbers

[Mulletwagon]

My shock arms have much play (inboard/outboard) and rattle. Pretty sure they are shot. What are the options and what is the best route to go ? How are the repros ? Is rebuilding a realistic option ? Would like to stay original but might consider the gas shock mod. Welcome insight.

[1931 flamingo]

Are these the tubular links??
Paul in CT

[Mulletwagon]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Are these the tubular links??
Paul in CT

Yes

[Paul Bjarnason]

Originally Posted by Mulletwagon

My shock arms have much play (inboard/outboard) and rattle. Pretty sure they are shot. What are the options and what is the best route to go ? How are the repros ? Is rebuilding a realistic option ? Would like to stay original but might consider the gas shock mod. Welcome insight.

Setting aside the philosophical question of maintaining strict originality, setting your car up for a set of modern tubular shocks would be a good idea, because they work better and are much, much cheaper to replace when the time comes. But, if you don't care about cost, the original type shocks work just fine, but are costly. I have gone with the tubulars, as my interest is in driving my Tudor.

[Railcarmover]

tube shocks are linear,the A suspension runs in an arc.Its one reason why they don't last/ride as good as they should.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

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If having Houldie shocks/etc rebuilt, John Holland does a great job at a reasonable price. No Email/text, Valley City Ohio, phone 330-483-3896

[arnhemmer]

After taking a deep breath I went with the Stipes shocks. Never regretted it. They are are adjustable to your liking. They have them available again on their website. It took me a while to decide to buy them because of the price, but now I'm glad I did.

[Werner]

I mounted Stipes shocks too. They works good, looks nice. Yes, some deep breathes (+ $ 90,- shipping + $ 420,- customs!), but I would do it again.

[Dave in MN]

Same for me on the Stipe shocks. I have two cars with them and find they do a very good job. Good Day!

[1931 flamingo]

Don't know how we got to replacing shocks when the OP is talking about worn tubular links??


Parts are readily available to rebuild your links or whole new assemblies.


Paul in CT

[Kustom Komet]

I got the tubular set from Snyder's a year ago, the kit was easy to install. The ride and handling is very nice. If you aren't too concerned about an original appearance, this is a good option.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Don't know how we got to replacing shocks when the OP is talking about worn tubular links??


Parts are readily available to rebuild your links or whole new assemblies.


Paul in CT

Paul, I interpreted his reference and question as to "shock arms". That was what he said. I saw your question and thought the same about your request. I did not know how we got to discussing the links. His answer: I thought he was confirming what type of links he had not the issue.
So, with no further input from the OP, I still don't know for sure what we should be discussing. Confusing isn't it. It would help if the OP would come back with a comment to clarify.
Just goes to show you how we get off course.
Good Day!

ps: I still think he meant that his shock arms were loose and rattling which would indicate either loose arms on the shock or worn out shocks.

[alexiskai]

My interpretation was that he meant the original style shocks, and then he said "Would like to stay original but might consider the gas shock mod," and Paul said "Are these the tubular links?" and he said "Yes," meaning "Yes, by 'gas shock mod' I mean the tubular links."

I don't think you should interpret him as saying he has worn tubular links – he said he wants to "stay original."

[Patrick L.]

What is rattling exactly ? The shock arm on the shock shaft ? The shock arm on the shock link ? Is the link the original tube type or the newer dog bone type ?

Regardless, the parts are available thru the vendors.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

My interpretation was that he meant the original style shocks, and then he said "Would like to stay original but might consider the gas shock mod," and Paul said "Are these the tubular links?" and he said "Yes," meaning "Yes, by 'gas shock mod' I mean the tubular links."

I don't think you should interpret him as saying he has worn tubular links – he said he wants to "stay original."

Thanks Alexiskai...
I see I was really off the mark! Maybe.
Good Day!

[Mulletwagon]

ps: I still think he meant that his shock arms were loose and rattling which would indicate either loose arms on the shock or worn out shocks.[/QUOTE]

Exactly right. My 1931 original equipment front shocks have very loose arms which displace about a half inch inward and outward where they attach to the links. Unless such loosness is normal, I think my shocks are toast. Sorry about the confusion. Sounds like Stipes are the quickest/best route to go despite the $$. Any experience with the no-name units ? Would prefer USA made. Thanx.

[Werner]

On a YT channel, a restorer from Switzerland wrote for his AA that the reproductions of MACs had very poor production quality (chips, jams, axle wobbles) and a lot of reworking was necessary. That was a series of about 2 or 3 years ago.

[Patrick L.]

The original looking type shocks from some of the vendors [such as Macs] that are oil-less, are junk. Stipes are good, just expensive.

[ryanheacox]

Have you read up on Armstrong rear shocks off of an MGB? The arms require some modification on the front but they look more authentic than the tube shocks and don't cost nearly as much as the Stipe shocks. Maybe even cheaper than the tube shock kit.

[Railcarmover]

As a benefit,the armstrongs use a link or dog bone as well,to transfer the arc to linear travel.