light switch out of alignment?

[kimeccles]

My light switch on the steering wheel seems to be messed up with my new wiring harness attempt.

What is the correct sequence for a 1930 Ford Cabriolet light switch? I thought left was dim ( cowl lights and tails?), Down was off, right a bit for low headlights, another notch right high beams?


Right now mine is about 30 degrees left is off, then down some lights, and both next notches to the right with lights.

I seem to be like one notch off to have the correct off down as mine is off left about degrees, not sure what to do to adjust it right as I thought the slot sort of made sure it stayed in place?

[Bill G]

The sequence you are expecting it to be is correct.

Other than having the little spider tip in the correct position, I would make sure the bakelite switch base with the notch is properly oriented in the metal housing. The spider tip is held on with a little "C" clip, but if that were off, it would be off by 90, 180 or 270 degrees.

[burner31]

The spider gear is out of alignment with the selector plate.
With your light rod in the off position the spider gear should be a the 12 & 6 o'clock positions, you can remove the spider from the rod and move it if needed.
The selector plate in the the light housing should also be at the 12 & 6 o'clock positions, the plate moves easy with your fingers so just move it where needed.
Could take a couple of attempts to get them all lined up, and watch the teeth on the spider gear, they break easily.
Have have some pics of the line up...but damn if I can find them right now.

[kimeccles]

Thanks. I will check the spider location.

[rbrennes]

I removed the light switch from the bottom of the steering column to check the contacts since none of my lights, including the brake lights, would come on. Now when I replace it, the horn honks. What is happening? I am obviously a newbie. HELP!!!!

[Joe K]

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Originally Posted by rbrennes

I removed the light switch from the bottom of the steering column to check the contacts since none of my lights, including the brake lights, would come on. Now when I replace it, the horn honks. What is happening? I am obviously a newbie. HELP!!!!

Something out of alignment? The switch plate is easily wedged in at an angle, covered by the cap, and this causes the horn to become shorted (The horn is "live" up to where it is fed and is caused to sound by grounding the other connection through the switch-plate/horn button.) The spring/spyder arrangement at the bottom of the horn rod are particularly noted for being the inadvertent ground.

Another failure mode CAN be the wire up the center of the switch rod actuator. Sometimes something as simple as removing the switch rod actuator (and "bending it around a corner" to avoid a closed car ceiling) and replacing it can cause the wire to become shorted. The wire can be replaced (fairly cheap) or the switch rod actuator replaced (more expensive.)

Don't forget there is one yellow wire which is connected to the generator cutout which provides electricity for the lighting switch. Also another yellow wire connected to the horn. You might have forgotten one of these which is why no lights?

Wiring diagram below.

https://content.invisioncic.com/r277...3141748918.jpg



Joe K