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Old 01-21-2019, 08:26 PM   #1
Synchro909
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Default Distributor Drive

Guys, I seek some info to confirm or otherwise what I have found. I took apart a going motor for inspection and decided to put it back together and run till it dies sometime later. I have no hope of getting it going again because the top of the oil pump/distributor drive gear shaft has a slot in it. Everything I see says it should be a tongue. The lower drive shaft I have has a slot each end, which I believe is correct. So, I have a slot trying to drive a slot - no go.
On Page 1-53, Les Andrews shows the lower shaft with a tongue on it. The diagram is repeated on page 1-105. Mr Andrews seems to contradict himself in instruction 18 on page 1-53 when he says "Insert the distributor shaft into the head, aligning the bottom slot of the shaft with the tab on the cam gear shaft."
As it stands, it seems I have the only cam gear shaft with a slot at the top and this motor was running. What's going on?
Looks like I might have to buy a new cam gear shaft with a tongue at the top.
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:17 PM   #2
Kurt in NJ
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

It could have been "fixed", perhaps the distributor seized and sheared off the tang, so cut a slot to match in the gear and make a piece of metal to fit both slots as a fix
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:22 PM   #3
Synchro909
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

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Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ View Post
It could have been "fixed", perhaps the distributor seized and sheared off the tang, so cut a slot to match in the gear and make a piece of metal to fit both slots as a fix
I considered that but without a sleeve over the tongue/slot drive, the shafts would not stay centered and the hole in the head gasket is not big enough to allow a sleeve to pass through.
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:30 PM   #4
barnstuf
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

The oil pump and distributor gear is Ford part number A-6551. Look it up in your favorite dealers catalog and you will see it has a tongue.
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:43 PM   #5
Synchro909
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

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Originally Posted by barnstuf View Post
The oil pump and distributor gear is Ford part number A-6551. Look it up in your favorite dealers catalog and you will see it has a tongue.
Thanks. Been there. I'm coming around to putting a piece of metal in one of the slots to make it a tongue and carefully open up the hole in the head gasket to allow a sleeve to go through. I'm sure that will be OK till I have to rebuild the engine some time in the future. I'll replace A-6551 then!
In fact, as I re read this, I've talked myself into it.
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Old 01-22-2019, 03:31 AM   #6
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

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Easy fix , take side plat off, flick the spring out then remove the drive & fit one with a tongue as it should be , that way if you ever want to change the dizzy on the road or anywhere you can , dizzy shaft has the slot in it , KISS it.
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:51 AM   #7
jhowes
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

My friend had an original (sic) untouched CCPU that he brought to me to see why it was not running right. I found that the dissy shaft had a 1/2 " copper water pipe connector shoved over the Dissy shaft to hold both parts together. Some slippage expected. You never know what you will find in an A to make it run a few more years. Jack '
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:27 AM   #8
Purdy Swoft
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

No harm meant but the distributor drive gear is usually worn to the point of causing excessive back lash in the distributor . I mostly replace the drive gear whether I'm doing a rebuild of the engine or not . Besides the standard size , two oversize distributor drive gears and parts are offered for engines with more wear at the cam connection . Replacing the gear would probably be the easiest and best fix .
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Old 01-22-2019, 03:46 PM   #9
Synchro909
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Default Re: Distributor Drive

I got the motor running last night after modifying the drive shaft. This engine has been "freshened up" and I don't know how long it has before it needs a rebuild. I'll replace the cam gear and shaft then.
FWIW, the motor was in a car I bought a few years ago from the US. The work was done over there and it has 0.006" wear in the bores, though they are parrallel and the pistons have been stretched to take up the slap. New rings and a valve grind, and it runs OK for now. Bearings were quite OK. The clearances were adjusted by removing shims - about 0.005" on each main bearing. Its future is to run as long as it continues to do so, then a rebuild with counterweights, new cam and a couple of other things (including a cam gear!).
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