Bending and flaring brake lines...

[PeteVS]

A few years ago, I plumbed the brake lines for my brother's '32. I tried staying with pre-flared lengths but eventually I had to cut some pieces to length and flare them. Even with steel (not stainless) it wasn't fun. Now, I'm working on my own project and I decided to work on the lines for the rear end. When I went to the local auto parts store, they didn't have any long lengths in steel so I bought a couple of pieces "Copper-Nickel" lines. It's so much nicer to bend and flare without any hassle. And, it won't rust! I highly recommend it.

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

A few years ago, I plumbed the brake lines for my brother's '32. I tried staying with pre-flared lengths but eventually I had to cut some pieces to length and flare them. Even with steel (not stainless) it wasn't fun. Now, I'm working on my own project and I decided to work on the lines for the rear end. When I went to the local auto parts store, they didn't have any long lengths in steel so I bought a couple of pieces "Copper-Nickel" lines. It's so much nicer to bend and flare without any hassle. And, it won't rust! I highly recommend it.

X10!! That stuff is awesome!! Just plumbed my wifes 56 belair with a 5.3 vortec! Brake and fuel lines. Great stuff! Inverted and 37 degree flares were a snap!! Pete

[skidmarks]

Only thing i have run into with the nicopper is there are different grades in wall thickness. The stuff on amazon and that napa had under the manufacturer American grease stick is thinner wall then the good stuff from fedhill. It wont bend in tight radius like fedhill stuff does.

[texas webb]

Thanks for that skidmarks.

[my4dv8]

Don't use a cheap off shore flaring tool.
We had problems when on a previous job on the last flare broke the nipple off the mandrel.
I forgot so it was easier to go to town and buy a whole new kit. But had issues with persistent leaks on using the new junk tool . Tried probably over tightening the tube nuts with no joy.
When I thought about it the only variable from previous jobs was the new off shore tool.
On examination we could see the double flare looked more like a single flare and had no squish left to help seal.
Switched to a mechanic buddy's KD flaring tool and had no bother at all.

[Talkwrench]

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I say use nothing less than an Eastwood turret type flaring tool, your life may depend on it! The only thing I found is that the Eastwood flaring tool does not like tubes that are too soft.

[1oldtimer]

My tools are a Mastercool hyd flare kit and a my trusty Blue point bender. Just remember to cut the tube with hacksaw or cut off wheel (not a tube cutter), make sure the cut is straight with a file and chamfer the edge of the tube with a file before making the flare. Since getting the Mastercool kit I haven't made a bad flare yet and I've done about 10 complete cars and 15 partial.