Static Timimg a 292

['59Edsel]

Can you guys give me some links to threads or sites that give you an overview or step by step for static timing a Ford 292 Y-Block? I'm learning a lot about car restoration day by day (For the past 4 years), but have never gotten into timing. I figured now's a better time than ever to start. Help!

[Ole Don]

For static timing on anything; remove the plugs so you can turn the motor easily with a socket and flex handle, advance the timing mark to the pointer always turning clockwise, most Y blocks I have seen have two marks. One at TDC, and one at about six. Put the mark on the six or a ways past it, to eight or as much as 12. Loosen the distributor, and turn it counter-clockwise about a half inch. Turn on the ignition and turn the dizzy clockwise untill you hear the spark jump. You can lay the coil wire on the intake to see it happen if you cant hear it. Lock down the dizzy. If the motor wont start, its not because of timing. Keep in mind, with the crap we buy at the gas station now, it will evaporate out of a carb in two days. You need to turn the motor a lot to pump it up from the tank.

['59Edsel]

Will this work if the engine has jumped time due to a worn out timing chain? It's possible it did that because it used to run fantastic. Now it only sputters and stalls out after only 5 seconds, andit wont start at all most of the time.

[Ole Don]

A Y block has a timing chain is about double the size of other engines. It may jump, but I have never heard of one failing. I would consider that last for your troubles. Look for bad connections in the primary ignition, make sure the points are clean and gapped right, and that the points have a good ground. Check the rotor, and inside the cap for tracking.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by '59Edsel

Will this work if the engine has jumped time due to a worn out timing chain?

'59 Edsel, If I am reading your question correctly no amount of ignition timing is going to correct cam timing.

Follow what Ole Don suggests before tearing into your engine tho.

[LOWRIDER]

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I agree with Yblockhead here. Follow Dons instructions to find TDC but DONT loosen or move the dist. Pop the cap off & check to see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap. If its not, I would suspect a jumped timing chain. If you move the dist. to static time the engine you will make it just that much harder to diag. a jumped chain.

[Ole Don]

I would like to ask a new question here, has anybody seen a plastic cam gear or a chain so loose it could jump a tooth on a Y block???

[LOWRIDER]

I can remember watching my old man replace the timing chain on his 57 Ford back in the early 60's. Wouldnt start one Sunday morning. He checked a couple things, swore a bit, then we were off to the Ford dealer he worked at for tools & parts. I still recall him saying to the nightwatch man his only concern was getting the trans cooler lines off the rad. A few hours later it was running.

[Daves55Sedan]

Sounds to me like you got a bad set of points in your distributor.
I can recall having a problem like you describe a few times and I found that my point contacts were completely gone. Nothin left but the arm. A new set of points and she was good as new again. Bear in mind, that was due to YEARS of hard daily highway drivin.

[rick55]

I have had a cam chain that worn you could hear it rattling, never did jump a tooth but. I'm with Don I don't think it will be the timing chain. There are so many things that will make an engine run rough before I would be looking at a timing chain.
The KISS principle works best - Keep It Simple S.......
Regards

[sprink88]

You are doing a resto. I bought a car that didn't start, spent alot of money on plugs, points, condenser, everything. What I didn't have was a Ballast Resistor. Make sure you have one and it's in good condition, not cracked etc. Hope it helps!

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Ignition timing and/or spark gets my vote as well. Attack these items first. I have lost track at the number of times I have watched people chase everything else but the points and condenser first. We all know what it takes to fire... compression, air/fuel mix, and spark. Provided the spark is timed right when that piston gets up there to the head, WHAMMO.. away we go.

For the record, I just helped a fella about 4 hours away from me who was chasing all kinds of problems on his 56 Ford 292. Missing something awful, wouldn't run for more than 2 minutes, etc, etc. He replaced the points alone, and he was off to the races.

[Builttheschool56]

I am going to install the electronic ignition kit in my 55 Fairlane, 272. I want to keep the underhood appearance as stock as possible, but have used these kits before to aid in reliability. Good to know the damper timing mark is on the #6 cylinder, I was pulling my hair out (whats left of it) when I statically found TDC on #1 and the hash marks were nowhere in sight!

[Ole Don]

The timing mark on a Y block should be for number one. The damper has been known to move with many years and miles. Two things will correct this, time the motor with a vacuum gauge, or send the damper to the Damper Dudes to get it rebuilt.

[Y-Blockhead]

Don's right. I don't know how many people have had problems getting their timing correct because the outer ring on the damper has moved.
Not just a Y-Block problem either. I once had a Turbo Corvair engine in a VW sedan (way back in my crazy youth). We couldn't get it timed and once we did could line up the marks a second time. Turned out automatic cars that is rubber mounted dampers and solid for manual. I was running a 4 speed with a 5 1/2 lb. flywheel. Revved real quick, but you can imagine what was going on with the damper.

[GREENBIRD56]

About a year ago Ted Eaton published a method to find / verify TDC - and it works well. Pull the RH front plug (#1) and the driver side valve cover (USA driver). Turn the engine over by hand (in the proper direction) until you are sure the #1 cylinder is beginning to rise on the compression stroke and pump air. Watch the #6 cylinder (second back driver side) rockers and slowly turn the crankshaft until they are equally displaced - on the split overlap. Use a scale if you have to, but make them as equal as possible. When you are finished, the pointer should be pointing at the TDC mark.

Factory tolerance for the keys - wear and tear on a chain and sprockets, etc. could result in a variance of 4°.

[Y-Blockhead]

You can use a tool similar to this Piston Stop to easily and accurately find TDC. Takes out the guess work.

Just ensure the battery is disconnected so you can't hit the starter with it in place. Bad things happen.