The Ford Barn

G.M. · 08-30-2015, 07:41 AM

Over the years at least a 100 people posted on this forum the improved results with Skips high flow pumps. A 15 to 25 degree change was the results reported with nothing but the pumps being changed. I say this is far more reliable info then a few
that think they got SLIGHT improvements from various other means. There is no doubt improved air flow will always result in better cooling BUT you need coolant in
the system, the more the better. G.M.

Steves46 · 08-30-2015, 08:43 AM

A clean radiator & block will resolve most overheating issues.

flatjack9 · 08-30-2015, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAKEFORD

At highway speeds with high engine rpm the coolant flow is high as the pump speed is high. Airflow through the rad is also high so cooling should be good. But why did my old 53 run hot?

Played with the thermostats, experimented with the pumps and reasoned that the coolant flow was too high and the water temp entering the block was too high. Slowing the coolant flow definitely helped cool the water entering the block and dropped engine temperature. My car spend at least 70% of its time at highway speeds at that time.

So I don't believe high water flow is the answer in all situations but a lot of experimenting was necessary. I remember doing a lot of calculations on heat transfer and one of my Profs was a huge help. I was going to do my graduation thesis on this topic but changed it to Automotive Engine Lubrication at the last minute.

Lot of fun at the time!

I don't know what your prof was teaching you, but mine taught that heat transfer was directly related to the flow rate. The higher the flow rate, the greater the heat transfer.

JAKEFORD · 08-30-2015, 10:50 AM

That is true if you can remove the heat in the retention time of the heat exchanger. If the time spent in the rad is short the differential temperature will be low. In my case the temperature entering the block on the cool side was too high. By slowing the flow a bit I was able to remove more heat.

Now maybe the rad was a bit plugged and the working capacity was low. I don't know.

But if you are happy with high capacity pumps, than stay with them. My solution was to go with a bigger rad and increase air flow. After I did that my problems were over even at very high ambient temps.

08-30-2015, 07:41 AM	#21
G.M. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida and Penna. Posts: 4,471	Re: drilling holes in water pumps Over the years at least a 100 people posted on this forum the improved results with Skips high flow pumps. A 15 to 25 degree change was the results reported with nothing but the pumps being changed. I say this is far more reliable info then a few that think they got SLIGHT improvements from various other means. There is no doubt improved air flow will always result in better cooling BUT you need coolant in the system, the more the better. G.M. __________________ www.fordcollector.com

08-30-2015, 08:43 AM	#22
Steves46 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lithia, FL Posts: 1,050	Re: drilling holes in water pumps A clean radiator & block will resolve most overheating issues. __________________ If it aint broke, don't fix it!

08-30-2015, 10:50 AM	#24
JAKEFORD Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Eastern Pennsylvania Posts: 154	Re: drilling holes in water pumps That is true if you can remove the heat in the retention time of the heat exchanger. If the time spent in the rad is short the differential temperature will be low. In my case the temperature entering the block on the cool side was too high. By slowing the flow a bit I was able to remove more heat. Now maybe the rad was a bit plugged and the working capacity was low. I don't know. But if you are happy with high capacity pumps, than stay with them. My solution was to go with a bigger rad and increase air flow. After I did that my problems were over even at very high ambient temps.