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Old 06-12-2019, 09:56 PM   #1
Bill Goddard
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Default Float-a-motor

Does the Float-a motor rear kit really work. I am thinking of installing the front mount too. Thanks Bill G
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:28 PM   #2
Gary WA
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

Some like, some don,t, I prefer original! It does work!
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:35 AM   #3
duke36
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

Search other FAM threads on the BARN; lots of info./ experiences. The new metal (not aluminum) kits are sturdy . Lot's of discussion of how much to tighten the (rubber) biscuits, just enough so the upper cap doesn't move. The stock front under the radiator mount is preferred by many owners.
The newer biscuits / or donuts are very firm and but still may compress over time; so they should be checked perhaps once a year or so to prevent sag..
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:49 PM   #4
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

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Originally Posted by Bill Goddard View Post
Does the Float-a motor rear kit really work. I am thinking of installing the front mount too. Thanks Bill G

FWIW, we've had FAM and original on different vehicles - couldn't tell much difference.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:53 PM   #5
CWPASADENA
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

I like the rear kit.


It helps keep the frame and body from trying to move forward during deceleration. The original rear motor mounts were more ridged and performed this function but with the softer FAM's, the extra rear mount is important.


I am not a big fan of the front FAM mount. The original Ford design works very well with the side and rear FAM mounts.


Again, this is just my opinion.


Chris W.
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:01 PM   #6
Synchro909
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

When FAMs are fitted, there is a horse shoe like thingy (love those technical terms) that bolts to the back of the coghouse and locates on the crossmember. Its purpose is to stop the engine/gearbox unit jumping up and down when you take off, especially in reverse. If you have a Mitchell O/D with the stick change like I do, you can't fit the "horse shoe". The shuddering as I move off is intolerable so I'm thinking of removing the original front engine mount and putting in a rubber pad type in the hope that I will achieve what the horse shoe did, only at the front rather than the back of the engine/gearbox unit.
Removing the FAMs and going back to solid rear mounts is not going to happen.
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:48 AM   #7
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

Had my rear on for 3 years, just recently removed back to stock, no difference.
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Old 06-14-2019, 11:34 PM   #8
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

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Originally Posted by 1929 View Post
Had my rear on for 3 years, just recently removed back to stock, no difference.

For the FAM's to work correctly, they can not be over tightened or they will not work.


What I do is to replace the course thread thru bolts with fine thread and I use nylon inserted self locking nuts.


I tighten each bolt just to the point the flat washer under the head of the bolt will not turn, then I tighten about another 1/4 turn.


Drive the car and if the clutch does not chatter, it is fine. If the clutch chatters, tighten each bolt another 1/4 turn.


The mounts must be soft to work and not over tightened to the point where the rubber is all compressed.


The softer, the better.


I feel the rear mount on the universal housing clamp is necessary but the FAM front mount is not as good as the original design.


My experience,


Chris W.

Last edited by CWPASADENA; 06-14-2019 at 11:36 PM. Reason: TYPO
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:46 AM   #9
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

I have fitted the centre horseshoe mount with Mitchell OD. I had to do lots of machining on the bracket and slot the Mitchell gearchange mount on its centre hole, mount one of its bolts and rotate it on this bolt into place under the floater motor bracket with the centre hole bolt loose enough to get the Mitchell bracket under it. Then all could be tightened in place.
My F/M horseshoe bracket was aluminium and I removed a lot of material from the top to get the Mitchell bracket fitted. But it has still proven strong enough for 20000miles of hard work.
It originally broke off at vertical bolts on both sides before I fitted the Mitchell and I had terrible clutch chatter until I welded, re-threaded and secured it again , as Synchro found.
A cast iron F/M centre mount would be preferable but harder to machine down (bevel off to about half original width if I remember correctly and then modify the F/M snubber plate a bit, using cap screws to secure it to the horseshoe part). An angle grinder would work, but I may mill it. Hacksaw and file may be possible for those deprived of workshop tools.
This is all for a RHD Roadster. LHD Mitchell change lever bracket is different and may make things easier.
I am about to change my Wife's Tudor to Floaters, because I have a lot of pulsing vibes on over run with higher compression and lightened flywheel.
I do not have this pulsing in the Roadster. Both engines are fully balanced. I weight-matched pistons, big ends, small ends etc myself , but I did not see the balancing results on crank, flywheel etc.(the graphs).They had lots of new drillings and pressure plate was marked for indexing by the balancer, so I assume It was well done - I cost quite a bit!
It will be interesting to see if F/M s improve the pulsing when cruising downhill on trailing throttle.
SAJ IN NZ

Last edited by SAJ; 06-15-2019 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Punctuation and paragraphing
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Old 06-15-2019, 01:38 AM   #10
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAJ View Post
I have fitted the centre horseshoe mount with Mitchell OD. I had to do lots of machining on the bracket and slot the Mitchell gearchange mount on its centre hole, mount one of its bolts and rotate it on this bolt into place under the floater motor bracket with the centre hole bolt loose enough to get the Mitchell bracket under it. Then all could be tightened in place.
My F/M horseshoe bracket was aluminium and I removed a lot of material from the top to get the Mitchell bracket fitted. But it has still proven strong enough for 20000miles of hard work.
It originally broke off at vertical bolts on both sides before I fitted the Mitchell and I had terrible clutch chatter until I welded, re-threaded and secured it again , as Synchro found.
A cast iron F/M centre mount would be preferable but harder to machine down (bevel off to about half original width if I remember correctly and then modify the F/M snubber plate a bit, using cap screws to secure it to the horseshoe part). An angle grinder would work, but I may mill it. Hacksaw and file may be possible for those deprived of workshop tools.
This is all for a RHD Roadster. LHD Mitchell change lever bracket is different and may make things easier.
I am about to change my Wife's Tudor to Floaters, because I have a lot of pulsing vibes on over run with higher compression and lightened flywheel.
I do not have this pulsing in the Roadster. Both engines are fully balanced. I weight-matched pistons, big ends, small ends etc myself , but I did not see the balancing results on crank, flywheel etc.(the graphs).They had lots of new drillings and pressure plate was marked for indexing by the balancer, so I assume It was well done - I cost quite a bit!
It will be interesting to see if F/M s improve the pulsing when cruising downhill on trailing throttle.
SAJ IN NZ
Stuart,
I have psyched myself up to do something with the front mount in an effort to fix the problem. If it fails, I will be in touch for details of what you did the put the O/D changer in with the FAM bracket (or I could go to a cable change)
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:16 AM   #11
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Default Re: Float-a-motor

I am using the cast iron FAM rear mount with a Mitchell OD and I did not have to do any modifications.


I have a Left hand drive car so this may be the difference.


Chris W.
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