oil

[bobsmanstuff]

What's the best weight oil to use in a 1930 model A motor. I've heard to many different answers I'm not sure. Thanks bob

[California Travieso]

Bobsmanstuff,

From the endless posts on the subject, we can summarize: whatever weight, type, e.g., detergent or non-detergent, single viscosity or multi-viscosity, and the brand you prefer, in accordance with season and what your pocket book can afford.

Change it as often as you like, 500 miles, 1,000 miles, 5,000 miles or once a year if you don't drive much. Some like change it before winter and before summer.

Some guys like Shell Rotella Diesel Oil, 10/40 or 15/40. Others buy whatever is on sale.

Some guy even stated he uses the oil he drains from his modern car. In that case, it would probably be wise to install a filter!

David Serrano

[bobsmanstuff]

Does it matter if it's multiple weight or straight ?

[Jacksonlll]

David, that’s a great answer. That should be the standard answer for all future oil questions.

[California Travieso]

Thanks Jack. I've enjoyed your videos also.

David Serrano

[California Travieso]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by bobsmanstuff

Does it matter if it's multiple weight or straight ?

Bob,

It depends on the condition of your engine and whether it is a high performance build. As I pointed out, "single viscosity or multi-viscosity" doesn't matter if you only drive around town. They only had single viscosity in the '20's and '30's and the cars ran fine.

Of course, they didn't run their cars at 50 to 60 miles/hr. for long periods of time like many guys do today on tours. In that case, its probably wise to use a multi-viscosity oil and change it more often.

David Serrano

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I agree will almost all of this except "whatever weight, type, e.g., detergent or non-detergent". The one thing I would never recommend is running non-detergent oil. I have seen the effect, and heard lots of others who have experienced the sludge effect of Non-detergent oil.


As for the rest of it when it starts looking dirty, change the oil, whatever oil you decide to use. I have my preference, but it is based on reasonable cost, and is available everywhere.

[bobsmanstuff]

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

[WHN]

I will give you a direct answer based on my experience.

Our 1929 Sport Coupe has a rebuilt engine with about 10,000 miles on it. It was rebuilt in the late 60’s. Good compression, all in the mid 60’s. Uses about one quart of oil in 500 miles. Very little oil dripping. No smoke at all, even after coming down a very long hill with my foot off the gas the whole way.

I use 20w-50 HD Walmart motor oil. Four quarts with one Blue Bottle of STP added to make up the 4 1/2 quarts. Also Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas.

We have used the same formula on all our Model A’s.

I have taken a noisy high mileage engine. Dropped and cleaned the oil pan and pump screen. Than added our oil formula. Within a short time, big difference. Especially engine noise.

This works for me. Everyone has there own formula. Enjoy.

[bobsmanstuff]

Thanks WHN.

[whirnot]

And I will throw one more in just for giggles. I use Valvoline ( NAPA Same thing) 10W30 year round. No additives. My engines was rebuilt years before I bought it, I have probably put 15000 miles on it. Doesn't leak much, but a little. Uses less than 1/4 of a quart between 500 mile changes.

[bobsmanstuff]

Thanks every one for the help.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by California Travieso

Of course, they didn't run their cars at 50 to 60 miles/hr. for long periods of time like many guys do today on tours. In that case, its probably wise to use a multi-viscosity oil and change it more often.

David Serrano

David, allow me to comment on your advice. Back in the day, they did run 45-50 mph for extended periods, -AND in many scenarios they were operating on less than hard surface roads, so wouldn't that have created equally harsh conditions?

Also, I generally think of the reason for multiviscosity oils is to help with cold weather starting and initial oil flow. Therefore a 10-30 or 10-40 oil's viscosity is not going to be any thicker than a single-weight oil of the same greater weight number, -and most Model-As are not operated in environments where cold start-ups are a problem with using thick(er) single weight oils.


I will share some food for thought on 'home-brew' oils, ...and especially multiviscosity concoctions. As a Model-A engine rebuilder, I have studied the internals of an A engine during assembly times, and I typically subscribe to the theory that any type oil that has 50 weight or STP in it is being done to mask a problem, ...and if the engine does not have a problem, using it will cause a premature problem. Even 40wt. oils are generally unnecessary.

My reasoning for the above comment is the stock Model-A oiling system is not a pressurized system. It depends on gravity flow of oil into the main bearings. Once the layer of oil has flowed into the bearing area, is the shear strength difference between a 30wt. and a 50wt enough to notice with the oil not under pressure? From what I have studied, the answer is No. Do I think the heavier oil is a detriment?? I do, because I would rather have the greater volume of flow that comes with using the lighter weight oil as it provides better heat dissipation from the main bearing.

As for the heavier weight oil on the connecting rods, two things happen that I feel are detrimental to longevity. As stated above, a thinner oil will be forced through the dipper and across the bearing surface faster than a thicker oil, ...and unless excessive clearances are trying to be masked, the extra oil promotes heat dissipation from the bearing surface. Additionally, when a heavier liquid is in the dipper tray where a scoop must hit that surface and be drug thru it, the extra energy (resistance) required to do this not only is greater, but it also sets up unnecessary resistance that is transferred to other items such as the crankshaft or connecting rod bearing material. While this may seem minute, the resistance is most definitely there. If you need to prove this to yourself, fill two wash tubs with liquids, -one with a lighter viscosity liquid such as water and one with a heavier weight viscosity liquid. With a quick rotation of your arm, drag your finger thru each wash tub just like the connecting rod hits the oil in the dipper, and tell me which one is easier on your arm & finger.

It is my view that if the babbitt is of good condition, the lubricating qualities of a 30 weight oil will be equal to, -or better than what you would get with a heavier weight oil. Also, the benefit of using a viscosity no greater than 30wt in modern oils is better for all around performance and longevity in a splash lubricated engine.

[duke36]

Some of us use the K&N long air filter and an accessory oil filter which can help keep the engine oil clean. A detergent oil is recommended with the oil filter. There has been a lot of discussion about zinc removed from oil and the red bottled STP (not blue) to prevent issues with catalytic convertors, so I use Shell Rotella 15-40 and ZDDP additive.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Brent x2, excellent summary.


I would like to add that I prefer a multi weight oil for start up and when the motor is not at a suitably warm temperature. From what I understand most wear occurs at start up and when the motor is cold. If running a straight 30 or 40 weight it is thicker at start up and cold that a multi weight. And unless running a thermostat or if blocking the radiator, cooler/cold outside temps keep the motor below optimum oil/lubrication temperature.


Correct me if my understanding is incorrect.

[California Travieso]

Brent,

Thank you for your insight. Generally, you will agree that what happen on these threads is that a lot of people reply with their own experiences and ideas and often leave the Original Poster (OP) confused. Therefore, in my preface I stated that, for the sake of brevity, I was summarizing what others have said in previous threads on Fordbarn.

It was not my intention to mislead anyone or to imply that mine post was the final word on the elusive subject of oil, so perhaps I should have added that the OP and anyone else that has a question about what oil to use should consult a professional such as yourself for the most accurate advice on the subject.

Although, there are a lot threads where there is spirited debate and even the professionals do not fully agree on many topics.

David Serrano

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by duke36

Some of us use the K&N long air filter and an accessory oil filter which can help keep the engine oil clean. A detergent oil is recommended with the oil filter. There has been a lot of discussion about zinc removed from oil and the red bottled STP (not blue) to prevent issues with catalytic convertors, so I use Shell Rotella 15-40 and ZDDP additive.

The Zinc Debate. Only a certain level is useful, more is not better and too much is hard on the motor. So you do not want to over use/add zinc. I have read Zinc is not required, but I also use Rotella T4 15w40 too to be on the safe side. It is relatively inexpensive when on Sale which it usually is, and is available in most parts stores, big box stores, and farm supply stores if you need some quick or if on the road. But either way, the most important thing is to change it frequently, when it just start to turn color.


I also recommend the K and N filter in an air maze or high boy.


I do not use an oil filter, do not drive enough miles. As long as you change the Oil frequently should be ok. Besides I've read to properly use an oil filter you should convert to an pressurized oil system. Too much cost to have done. If touring, putting on a lot of miles, and you have the cash I can understand/see doing it.


Opinions may vary.

[WHN]

Goggle, choosing right oil for your model a engine. Rocky Mountain Model A Club Presentation.

This will give you a complete general view, including comments from Les Andrews, on engine oil system.

This conversation could go on forever. Take the time to the read article. It is very informative and non biased. Enjoy.

[JD 1931]

20W 50W Walmart brand and STP....

[1929]

I just use what my rebuilder said to use-Rotella 15W-40 with one bottle ZDDP