276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

'Adventures in used parts' The saga continues. I found I had a few guides that while they fit the valve nicely, the guide was somewhat loose in the block. 12 were a push through with hard thumb pressure or a few light taps, 4 would pass through with gravity. Following a youtube video by 'Bored and Stroked' I knurled the 4 loose ones in my lathe. There was a learning curve. It does not take much to get them too tight. On those I chucked them back up and with file applied gently, they were perfect. With all valves and guides tight I lapped the exhaust valves keeping the guides paired. The seats are nice and narrow, so maybe my experimental first try got lapped in an intake and an exhaust seat both. Next I found the old style Johnsons will compress down quite readily endwise in the vice to get them back to 40-60 in/lb torque. I have now done about 30 of them, but the 2nd one I did, I gave two oomph tugs on the vice handle instead of one. It was very hard to turn the wrench in fact I grabbed a longer 7/16 to crank. It just got tighter as I cranked it but figured I'd run it in and out a few times to break it in. But then a quite audible CLICK. Maybe I need to affix a 1/2" drive socket to the screw on my vice so I can crank it with my click torque wrench. I told you I overthink things. And finally, Once I got a valve assembly installed I realized I'd need a crank to rotate the cam as had been suggested. I had a galvy pipe cuttoff that was a loose fit in the gear. I slotted it two sides and shouldered it til an old muffler clamp fit. A sleeve of bicycle inner tube serves to protect that nice new cam gear and fill the gap. In retrospect the handle sould have been a few inches longer but it works well. Hoping some of these musings will help a future V8er someday.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Pete. The threads just plain look better with the big pictures.

[GB SISSON]

I now have all the valves installed and adjusted. Everything went well. After I cracked the lifter all the bolt squishing was lighter and at 40 in/lb they adjust firmly and none felt at all loose. I then installed that oil pump gear and am ready to install the crank. I have many questions about oil pans and bellhousings and starter plates. I have multiple cast and stamped BHs and 2 oil pans that look alike with the cleanouts. I also have the 4 bolt die cast seal holders at rear. I overhauled 2 8bas 20 some years ago, just replacing what came off, so there was no need for choosing of parts. I don't have a 'green bible' for the later engines so need help choosing what goes with what. Can I install the crank and then figure out the seals or do I need to set the rear one before the crank? Here's a few pics of what I have. My Best gasket 8ba set doesn't seem to include the rubber for the die cast rear seal holder. Any help appreciated. Thanks, GB

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I now have all the valves installed and adjusted. Everything went well. After I cracked the lifter all the bolt squishing was lighter and at 40 in/lb they adjust firmly and none felt at all loose. I then installed that oil pump gear and am ready to install the crank. I have many questions about oil pans and bellhousings and starter plates. I have multiple cast and stamped BHs and 2 oil pans that look alike with the cleanouts. I also have the 4 bolt die cast seal holders at rear. I overhauled 2 8bas 20 some years ago, just replacing what came off, so there was no need for choosing of parts. I don't have a 'green bible' for the later engines so need help choosing what goes with what. Can I install the crank and then figure out the seals or do I need to set the rear one before the crank? Here's a few pics of what I have. My Best gasket 8ba set doesn't seem to include the rubber for the die cast rear seal holder. Any help appreciated. Thanks, GB

[Bored&Stroked]

You always need to install the rear-main seal (in the block) before you put the crankshaft in. I prefer to use the graphite impregnated ones from BestGasket.

Question, did you wash the block with a lot of hot soapy water after it came back from the machine shop? The includes running rifle bore-brushes through all the oil-galley holes?

Or, did the machine shop wash it thoroughly before they gave it to you? There can be a lot of grime/grit impregnated into the bores as well as metal shavings in various places. Some machine shops have big "block washers" - some don't.

[GB SISSON]

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I guess I have always known the rear main runs under the crank, but it was that 8" long triangular die cast part that I thought had something to do with the seal, like somehow it was external. Been a long time since I put an 8ba together. I did a pretty involved search on the barn and found one very pertinent thread that showed me the seal holder and some pan info. I will worry about the pan later, but I did clean up a nice truck pan this afternoon. Wash down: Yes, Less told me wash down the cyliner walls with hot soapy water, so I did everything else while I was at it last week. He had already cleaned the passages and resealed the steel tube in the valley. Crankshaft: I blew lots of solvents through the crank passages with 100 psi air. Then the threaded plugs with loctire. I plan on setting the rear main seal holder in rtv or the black 'good stuff' gasketmaker. Yes I have the graphite dog turds from Best. Do they need to soak in oil like the old white ones?

[cadillac512]

No, the graphtite ropes don't need to soak like the old ones. Roll them in place, trim correctly then a bit of oil on them before the crank goes in.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

No, the graphtite ropes don't need to soak like the old ones. Roll them in place, trim correctly then a bit of oil on them before the crank goes in.

Just the kind of info I need! I'm an early riser so consider that crank going in tomorrow morning. Should I install the crank gear with a hammer and pipe sleeve or draw it on with a stud and sleeve in the end bolt hole? It seems some oven time might be good for that gear like 200 degrees? Hammer method before or after crank is installed? Thanks!

[cadillac512]

I usually drive the gear on with a sleeve and good sized hammer, and heating it to 300-400 degrees is safe. It may drop on at 400. I like to stand 'em on end on the floor to install, but in the engine works ok too. Make sure the timing mark is front side.

[GB SISSON]

Thank you. From my search, many good engine builders here like the early timing gears in an 8ba. My nos aluminum cam gear is early type, so leaning in that direction. For now I will hold off on gear choice until I finalize my decision. I have dug up some aluminum and some cast iron timing covers and that may weigh into the decision as I proceed.

[cadillac512]

I used the early gears in my late (8CM) Merc. Worked just great. As you proceed to install the timing cover, try it without a gasket to check camshaft end play. If it's fine (I like a minimum of .003") I just use a THIN smear of RTV (or preferably an anaerobic sealer) without the gasket. Not everyone has the anaerobic stuff but RTV silicone works fine.

[51504bat]

For the head bolts sealer I used #2 Permatex per the recommendation of the machinist who did my 8ba short block but I'm sure there are other options as well.

[Bored&Stroked]

I like the earlier crank/timing gears that have the thrust towards the block - as long as the thrust clearance is correct. Depending on the cam, block, timing cover, and gasket (or no gasket) - the clearance can really vary. Don't make the mistake of using thick timing cover gaskets - the stock ones were only about .008 thick . . . but you still may need to "tune" the thrust clearance (sometimes without a gasket at all).

If you're using the later side-mount distributor and timing cover, the later gears are not a bad idea as they keep the cam nose thrusting against the timing cover - which helps to keep the timing from fluttering around. If your clearances are around .003 to .004, there is less potential timing fluctuations - which is a good thing.

[GB SISSON]

Dang, you guys are killin' me. All the stuff I need to know to be happy on a Saturday morning. I have had a longtime love of #2 permatex, sounds perfect for head bolts, on the graphtite rope I used permatex black Ultra like the Best gasket sheet recomended. I also used it between the block and the die cast holder. Claims excellent oil resistence, so probably good for timing cover too, but I will check end play. And yes to the post type distributor. No more dual points behind the V belt for me. After all, it's a little late to be worried about staying 'original' on the phantom woodie. Two more questions for this morning. Cast iron or aluminum timing cover? and I have NORS main bearings by Michigan Bearing Co. I bought on barn swap. I will post a pic. Surface is very shiney, oddly so. Should I buff them out with fine scotchbrite?

[Bored&Stroked]

If your distributor (hopefully NOT a Crap-O-Matic) has the longer shaft (down below the gear) then try to use the timing cover with the boss that accepts the lower shaft.

I've only seen this on the aluminum covers (Not all of them) - I've not seen that extra boss on the cast-iron covers. The boss helps to center the distributor (as the shaft rides in it) - and helps reduce deflection/play in the assembly. This also helps keep the timing from fluttering.

[Bored&Stroked]

Take some really fine 3M sandpaper (like 800 or 1000) and gently polish the thrust surfaces of the two rear bearing halves. Make sure you check your thrust dimension before installation of rods/pistons - sometimes it needs to be "tuned" as well. I like about .005 to .007 of thrust. Make sure it is not too tight or too loose . . .

I use a magnetic base and a dial-indicator on the end of the crank - and a big screwdriver that I use between a counterweight and the block - moving it back and forth to read the thrust dimension.

[tubman]

For those of you who are unfamiliar with the various types of timing covers that were used in the 8BA era (I know I was), here is an example of what's available that I found on the H.A.M.B. A big thanks to whoever posted it originally (maybe "V8Bob"?).

[GB SISSON]

More very useable info here! This morning I cleaned and primered the truck pan as I wanted to know about the shiney bearings before it set the crank. Then I mowed about half of my gigantic lawn. Coming up soon will be the five short body oil pumps I found. 2 don't have pickup tubes and I can see that one has square cut gears and one has bevel. Don't know on the others yet I'm sure some examination with be in order. In the past I just bought a new melling for each overhaul as I was afraid of an old grubby looking pump having a failure. Now I'm of the mind that the factory stuff if in good working order is superior to much of the repop stuff today.

[flatford8]

Not trying to piss in the middle of you parade Bud but, do you have room between the fan and radiator for the front mount distributor? Everything is a little further forward…..but I’m sure you already know that…….Mark

[cadillac512]

Those super shiny bearings are the "micro" polished version and are good stuff, no buffing needed.